TFaoro

No, it's a diamond eye. I just cut the curved piece off of the end so the tip would fit. I haven't noticed an in-cab difference

It made the rumble deeper than before. The 4in with a 6in tip was deeper than just the 5in without a tip. Yes, about 2.5 gallons of concentrate. You'll have some extra for refilling.

4-6 does make a difference! I had one on my old exhaust. It's a light yellow color, and I got it at the local Napa. $20/gallon for the concentrated stuff

It's a 5 to 7 tip. Made the exhaust much deeper since the twins muffle everything. I'm not sure if they are compatible or not, but there wasn't anything left in the system. 30min with a hose on full blast and the engine running cleaned it out!

I got my buddy to switch over to 2 stroke on his 06 Dmax. He used to get a low fuel rail pressure light at WOT (Has egr blocker, exhaust, intake, built trans, and EFI by Idaho Rob). Now with the 2 stroke, he gets no light and the truck seems to run better. He does 1oz per gallon and it seems to work for him. Truck is at 253K and still sounds good!

Did some work on the truck this weekend. Put a little shiny and black on I also changed the coolant out to Zerex G05 instead of DexCool. First thing I did was put the rear up on ramps and drain the coolant from the radiator. I got just over 4.5 gallons out of it. From there I took the thermostat out of it and bolted the housing back down. From there I stuck a hose in the top of the radiator and ran the engine on high idle. With the hose on full, I repeatedly pulled the top hose off of the radiator and let the pump remove all of the water from the system. I did this for probably 30 30 minutes. for 10 min the coolant was completely clear, but I wanted to make sure I got everything out. From there I let the last of the water drain from the bottom of the radiator. Then I filled through the thermostat housing with distilled water and concentrated Zerex G05. The first thing I noticed was how much thinner the zerex was! Noticeably thinner than the Dex-cool. I then drove around and got the thermostat to open up. Once all of the air was in the radiator I topped it off again. Driving, I noticed the temperature cools off much faster than it did before. If I held it WOT for a while before it would jump to 199 then slowly come back down to 199. Now it's jumping to 197 and jumping back to 193 quickly. I haven't towed with it yet, so we'll see about that. Fan clutch is still shot though......

We adjusted the over-the-center and it took out some of the play, but the box became tight like you're saying. It would not return to center and was MISERABLE form the 2300 mile round trip to California, not to mention unsafe. My dad really hates this vehicle, so I doubt he's willing to rebuild it himself. More problems with 100K on it than his 12V with 170K. Not to mention he hates all PS engines! Don't pull well at all, drink tons of fuel, etc. I'll update this on what he decides.

You could sink the seal to a different depth in order to get it to wear in a different spot. Mine sealed fine with 180K but yours may be different.

Those tires are beasts! We are currently looking at swapping the 16.5s on the gooseneck out for 16s and need some strong tires. Thanks for the link!

PB blaster for me. If that doesn't work I bring the torch out

My room mate got his hitch stolen, so I went and bought a locking one. I leave a big @$$ crane hook in the back of my truck at all times (unless towing a trailer) to protect the rear bumper and "hint" at the people who like to tailgate. Mine also has the rubber cap and I've never had an issue with getting it on/off in the last 3 years.

You're telling me. Got it for a good price, but flirting with power, fuel efficiency, towing, etc. all at the same time is pretty addicting!

The 05 is almost the exact same as the late 24V. It's got a canister style filter that comes out the top with a plastic cap. I've had zero issues with mine thus far. I think they are liked more than the early 24V style, which you have. The two plugs are a heater and a water in fuel sensor.

My parents are looking to replace the steering box on their 2000 Powerstroke Excursion. There's only 110K on the dang thing, but it steers worse than my truck with 205K. I know it's a Cummins Forum, but it's basically the same box and I would ask the exact same thing if I were replacing the one in my truck. So, what say you? I've read good about both, of course a couple bad about both but it looks like the blue top is cheaper than the redhead.

Hmmm I'm not sure how that works as I have the updated style. I do have one off of an 05 CR laying around if you'd like to buy it. We can see if the plugs will work in your truck. Other than replacing it maybe some silicone around the top. That would only be a temporary fix though.

I think my rear is going to ride like a tank either way. Still deciding though... I can take my time making decisions though. No $$$ to blow

Is this an early 04 or a late o4 (04.5+)? If it is early, it should be 100% mechanical. That would lead me to believe there is a diaphragm issue. If it is late, there could be an electrical issue causing it to open. Do you have any gauges that could help diagnose the problem? Boost, rail pressure, etc. Is this problem recent or has it been happening since you had things changed?

Direction wise... DP should go inside the resonator on the inlet, and the resonator should go inside the pipe on the outlet. I agree with the clamps.

Rancho's do come with a lifetime warranty, making them very tempting!

Hmmm haven't encountered those diet roads yet Good to hear Mike. A buddy of mine bought Ranchos and he said they were pretty stiff at the beginning, but they have gotten much better with more miles.

For those of you who have driven a G56, I don't think someone could get mine into reverse! It doesn't have the shift pattern on the knob, so pulling it past the reverse detent isn't known by many. G56 2nd gens aren't too "common"

How do you like the shocks? Been looking to get some when the $$$ stops flowing out!

Negative...

Do it the easy way to protect your own butt.... talk to the service manager. Have him write down what pressure HE wants the tires at, and have him sign it if you can. This way it takes the liability off of you and puts it on the service manager.

Almost sounds like the timing on the pump is stuck in a bad spot, but I would think a code would be thrown. I agree with @Me78569, finding someone to swap pumps with is going to be your best bet.