MnTom

I w9ould think that if you had a governor issue then it would be apparent in all gears instead of just first. I don't know if it is a sticky solenoid or not, but the GM solenoid is supposed to be a good upgrade.

What you are feeling is the torque multiplication of using low range. Ever notice how much more brake pedal pressure is required for low range? That works the same way.

Do you guys know that the bolts holding the bed on are rusty? You just may be surprised. My truck came from upper Michigan and then spent time in Mn. and the bolts came right out when I lifted the bed. My daughter's truck came from Ohio and the bolts came out easily on hers too.

That sounds very much like the nuts on the convertor came loose or the flex plate is cracked. Pull the cover on the front of the bell housing and check the nuts first but check real close to see if there are any cracks.

You really can't go by the threads on the adjuster. The way to adjust them is to jack up the rear wheels (put jack stands under it too!!), and rock the wheel back and forth so you are feeling the gear slop. Then tighten the adjuster while rocking the wheel UNTIL you just start to hear or feel the shoes starting to contact the drum. DO that to both sides and you are done. Now to why one drum feels hotter, there is a possibility your other wheel cylinder has seized and the brakes aren't working. Try adjusting them up and stomp hard on the brakes while moving on gravel. You should be able to tell if the brake is grabbing or not even with ABS.

That is a T-case from a Jeep Grand Cherokee V-8 (5.9L) 2005 and up.

I put a NAPA box on mine a couple of years ago and it is still doing fine. I have heard about how poor the NAPA boxes are, but with a lifetime warranty and local availability (along with the price) it was an easy choice for me.

That makes yours a whole bunch easier to do! One thing to keep in mind is to go easy on the adjustment. You probably only want to turn the collar about a quarter turn at a time. Yes it is a PITA and you may need to adjust it a couple of times, but once you first adjust it and take it for a test drive you will see what I mean.

I don't know if I am really saving money by running propane, but I sure like to use the numbers on some of the people that claim "I get 20 mpg towing my fiver through the mountains". I do know that my truck has a bunch more get up and go with it so it makes it worth it for me! Just an FYI, the price of propane varies so much across the country that I don't even look at the price anymore.......

Does your sound seem to be like a thump, thump, thump? That could indicate a head gasket blown between cyls 5 & 6. That would also explain why the noise stayed with #5 after you swapped injectors.

I just got done with a 275 mile trip and about 1/2 of it with the cruise set on 73MPH (freeway), and the other 1/2 the cruise was set at 59MPH (two lane). I filled up at the beginning and still have a needle's width OVER 3/4 tank left! I haven't figured it out yet, but WOW! Oh, BTW, I also run propane...

Well, for one thing you will not be able to find a '98.5 with a 12v in it. Mid year '98 is when the switch was made to the 24v engines so you are looking for a '98 12v, but like most have said, the '98 12v can only be had at a premium price plus a few grand....

Yep, you are good to go!!

The adjustment Mike it talking about will not change any of the alignment IF you have the heavy duty steering on your truck. The heavy duty is distinguished by the tie rod going from wheel to wheel and a drag link bolting to it about a foot or so from the right wheel. The drag link can be made longer or shorter to straighten the steering wheel. If you have the standard duty steering you will need to adjust both tie rods to center the wheel and you can screw up your toe in adjustment if you are not careful.

I dunno...... I like the looks of those lights now. They are so pretty when they flash on and off.......

Like I said, as long as you can't make the wheel touch the sides you are good to go. Since it runs good without a bunch of black smoke you are fine.

A little in and out play is normal and nothing to worry about. If you can push the wheel sideways and touch the sides with it then it needs help.

Another thing you can do is use a piece of wood (1"x6") about 7" long and mount it under the BHAF to keep the filter off the A/C line and bolts holding the air filter box in place. Pull the stock box and set the board on top of the bolts sticking up. Take a hammer and gently tap on it to put impressions of the three bolts in it. Take the board out and drill a hole where the bolt impressions are using a slightly smaller drill bit. Then using the hammer again, line up the drilled holes with the bolts and tap it into place. It will stay and then just let the filter just sit on the board. That is all there is to it! My last BHAF lasted well over 100,000 miles and so should yours!

Eric, I have found it easier to lift the front of the box. You will need a 15mm socket to do it and a screwdriver to pull the three screws for the filler neck. The 15mm socket fits the six (short box) or eight (long box) bolts. Pull all the bolts EXCEPT the last two in the rear. Just loosen them and they will act as a hinge for the box. Pull the screws behind the fuel filler door and then lift the front of the box. Two guys can lift it or you can use another way to lift the box, but, MAKE SURE YOU BLOCK THE BOX UP!!! Then you can get to things and really look to see what is going on. You probably won't see anything until you pressurize the tank. Use a rag and a blow gun and it works pretty good. The module is real expensive (I was quoted $424 by one dealer) so you might want to explore alternative methods of repair (NAPA epoxy fuel tank repair comes to mind).

Definitely for most of it, BUT, the WTS should come on before you even try to start the truck. It still sounds like you do not have power getting to the PCM.

I had a 12 valve in my driveway that would quit from sucking air ONLY when the temperature was about -10*. Anything above that it would start and run just fine. It took me a while, but I finally found the line coming out of the tank module was rusted and cracked right where it goes into the module. The way I found it was lift the bed and pressurize the fuel tank. Once I fixed it the truck ran great and still does! It is my daughter's truck..... Anyhow, maybe that is where the problem lies? It will suck air there.

You beat me to it!!

Gee, MAYBE, just MAYBE there is a reason for that???

Well, geez, that sucks. Now I need to figure that one out! I am glad that you were able to get ahold of him. You should PM me his contact info (just in case!!). Anyhow, I guess now that you know exactly what is going on the work begins..... However, the 47RE SHOULD sell pretty quickly......

Russ, have you thought about something like this? Look here: http://www.weatherguard.com/van_storage_equipment/view_products.php?Category=Specialty-Storage-Accessories&Subcategory=Itemizer-Drawer-Units