MnTom

Keep in mind that when you have an open box on your truck there is an air 'bubble' that forms in the box. Air strikes the tailgate and gets moved to the front of the box and then up the back of the cab. Once there it gets moved to the back of the box again. the air "sees" the bubble as part of the truck and that is why leaving the tailgate up nets the best mileage. Think of the way smoke from stacks gets pulled down to the road and you can envision the bubble. ISX, you are correct about the flat back end, however, the shear size of the back of a truck with a topper is big enough to cause more drag.

I can remember when at 82k miles an engine WOULD be wore out!!

I have been told that the rear is what needs to be changed because the output shaft from the DLD is smaller than the output shaft of the DHD. I found case halves for just under $500, so if you can tell me where there is one for $200-$400 I am sure my daughter would really appreciate it!

Naw, not quite. The 241C(Chevy) is the same as the 241D(Dodge), EXCEPT for where the t-case bolts on to the transmission. They will bolt up but the Chevy case will be turned 90* and I don't think that would be a good idea..........

Hey guys, my daughter has had an "issue" with her transfer case. She has a '98 12v auto. The front driveshaft fell out hit the road and cracked both halves. Anyhow, I am looking for the least expensive way to repair it. All I need are the two case halves, but can't locate the front half. Either that or I could replace the whole thing but the core is not acceptable to a rebuilder so that is out. I have also read that her DLD could be replaced with a DHD and just swap a couple of parts and it is a bolt on. Anybody know of a place for parts or another t-case or another way to get this truck back on the road?

If you think about it you now have a huge "vacuum" at the rear of the truck now. Maybe some sort of air foil to direct some air down to 'fill the void'?

Mine will shift real early if I am not pushing hard on the throttle. Low speed it will shift 1-2 under 10mph and 2-3at less than 20mph and into O/D at 47mph.

The limp mode is going into second gear and staying there. I don't know why yours is shifting so soon, but mine shifts quite quick too unless I am pressing hard on the throttle. Normal conditions the O/D shift is at 47MPH.HEY!!!! I just remembered a comment that Dave Goerends told me about the RE trannies...... The computer only looks at two things to determine what gear to put the tranny in. One is the OSS on the side of the tranny and the other is the TPS to determine load. Maybe your TPS is the problem?

Normally with my 28' fiver I get 14 mpg at 55, 12 mpg at 65, and 10 mpg at 70. With propane I get another 5 mpg across the board meaning 25.5 mpg at 65 mpg empty and 16+ mpg at 65 towing.

Eventually I am going to be able to get on a dyno to see just how much power propane gives me. There is a noticeable power gain with propane.

That is where I like my regulator. The more boost the more propane added. I have mine set to come on at about 2 PSI boost.

I replaced the head unit and all four speakers. Not one of the replacement speakers had an amplifier on them. I got everything from Crutchfield and it sounds as good or better than the stock speakers. My daughter says she can't believe how 'crisp' the sound is from the new speakers.

I picked up a 'cheap' regulator (THIS ONE) for $200 and the propane gives me 5 mpg across the board. I now get about 25.5 mpg at 65 mph and towing my fiver I get about 16.5 mpg at 65 mph. Plus it gave me a fair amount more power too!

Actually, a slight amount of warpage is normal by the time a head gasket needs replaced. One cause for the gasket to leak there is the water pump. If you hold high rpms for a while (pulling a load up hill) the water pump will push water out there.

I put a relay on mine, except I used a 24v air conditioning contactor in place of a relay. The contactor has quite a bit more capacity than a relay and will last longer.

One thing to keep in mind is there is a trade off of sorts with brake pads. The "cheaper" pads will not last as long as the expensive ones, BUT with the harder the pads the more the rotors wear.

From what I have read you will need the ECM, PCM, wiring harness (under the hood), and the in cab harness with the dash from the donor truck. That way you would have all the gauges functioning without having to butcher any harness. Otherwise, you always could P pump the 24v!Tom

I got my truck to give me 25.4 and 25.6 mpgs (two tank fulls) at 65 mph empty and 16.8 mpg towing my fiver at the same speed (that is until I run out of propane). Propane gives me a consistent 5 mpgs and diesel here in northern Mn is running from $4.399 to $4.639........

Ah, but the propane is the key! Normally I would only get about 18 to 20 mpgs at 65mph...... I also get about 14.5 mpg towing my fiver at 65 mph.

$4.12 or so around here, but I have been getting 25.4 mpgs out of the last two tanks at 65 mph empty!

For the most part this is true, BUT for a gasser. I did a fair amount of research and once you throw a turbo on the engine the size is not very important. This is a long read, but it is quite informative:

Deep well socket and a bunch of extensions. The ratchet will be close to the master cylinder.

Go to your local hardware store and buy four rubber (Fernco) couplings. I am pretty sure you need 3" ones. Slide them on your stops and you should be fine. My truck has been like that for over 11 Years! You would want the straight ones.......

I don't have a scan gauge. What I did on mine was just rotate the TPS as far counter clock wise (or was it clockwise?) as I could to raise the voltage as high as I could so the shift points were higher. Mine goes into O/D at about 47 MPH at light throttle and my daughter's truck goes into O/D at about 40 with the same throttle.

Flaky grounds do weird things........