MnTom

You are welcome, Bill. Glad to be of some assistance. For anyone interested, Auto Zone and Auto Value have pieces of polished stainless steel that glue onto the mirror to fix cracked glass.

By now you probably have the trans out and found out that you really don't need to spread the frame, but it helps, and yes, you will need to support the back of the engine. Far as band adjustments, look at THIS PAGE for the procedure. For the governor pressure solenoid THIS PAGE has the answers you want. Tom

Couple of ways. Look at the damper while the truck is running. ANY wobbling it is bad. Any bulging in the rubber you should think about replacing it. If you decide to pull it to check it there are either a couple of notches that should be lined up or a couple of dimples that should be in line.

About the only way I know to confirm the P0216 code is to clear it and make sure you have good connections at the pump and grounds. Run it and see if it comes back. Most likely it will especially if you are over 100k miles on the original IP.

If you are getting the fuel spraying when you crack #6 injector line then you need to look deeper into the engine. The next step would either be a compression check or just pull the head and see what the damage is. If you do not get fuel out of the line then you need to get the pump looked at. The fuel leak under the truck will not cause one cylinder to miss fire consistently. You would have a random miss from an air leak that would be worse under load. Tom

The dynamic works, but the no-ip doesn't.

Around here there is a small station that sells B-99 in the summer (canola oil). The power and mileage drop slightly (you don't notice it until you go back to regular diesel), but my truck runs way smoother on it, and the exhaust stinks like burned french fry oil not the sweet smell of diesel. My truck also hazes on an idle with it, BUT the price of diesel around here is $4.099 to $4.199 and the bio is at $3.889. Curious what I get out of this tank full.

Hm. Can't seem to connect to it........

Before you spend any money with DTT read this thread: http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/wary-doing-business-dtt-diesel-performance-t302266.html If you want a good transmission check this place: http://www.goerend.com/ I have one from there and so does my daughter. You may even save enough to buy your turbo you want too!

I know I am late to this one, but check out the mirrors here: http://www.discountautomirrors.com/catalog/?N=1607+10105+4294962955&Nr=AND%28part:Mirror,brand:Kool%20Vue%29&Ns=price3|0 Scroll down and you will see the towing mirrors. The price seems reasonable.

Right now a Plumber Foreman for a fairly large company here in Mn. (www.ricelake.org) building and rebuilding city sewer plants, Pipefitter for the last 12 years, plumber for a few years before that, 8 1/2 years experience as a truck driver (been in 47 states and 4 provinces of Canada in one year by my self), and worked in the woods cutting pulpwood. That was my last 34 years worth. I have been turning wrenches on the side for about 45 years or so, but no real experience!! Hope to retire in about 8 years............

The way to reach any primer button on a 12 valve is to cut yourself a stick (like a broomstick) about 2 1/2 feet long. That way you won't need to reach way in there!

Dave, take a look at this page for some answers: http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/starter%20faq.htm

Never mind. The mode fork is worn. The way it wore made it look like it was machined like that.

Hey guys, I just replaced the chain in my daughters' t-case. It was grinding and the chain was real sloppy. I got it back together and it still grinds. When it is put into 4wd high or low the transfer case grinds and does not engage the front drive shaft. It seems as the fork is not moving enough. After looking at diagrams better I do not recall seeing any shift fork pads (#44 in this picture: http://www.tbtrans.com/id22.htm#np231). Could that be what is going on?

The first thing that I would do is bump the idle up to where it is supposed to be. It is supposed to idle at 750 RPM in gear with the A/C on. If you have not installed a GSK (governor spring kit) I highly doubt that they are your problem. It sounds to me like the idle is just too low.

Something you can try is use a blow gun and wrap a rag around the gun so you can put some air pressure into the filler neck. That will pressurize the fuel lines and hopefully pin point your source of your air leak. Another place to check is the steel line coming out of the fuel tank module. I had one that ran good when it was warm out and would quit when it got below zero. That one was the steel line on the module.

Evacuating an A/C system will not pull oil out of it. If you have a good vacuum gauge you will know when you have all the contaminants out (the gauge will hold steady if leak free, or it will rise a little if there is moisture in the system).

Another excellent place to get transmission info is from Dave Goerend. www.goerend.com

Link don't work. Try this one: http://www.easternmarine.com/

The nitrogen is used to pressurize the system to help find a leak. If you had bubbles from anywhere on your system you have a leak.

The year of the cab does not matter. They are interchangeable. What you would need to do is save ALL of your wiring and dash out of your truck and reinstall the harness and dash in the 'new' cab.

Something that may help with the diagnosing the evap is to use an electronic leak detector and sniff the drain tube under the hood. The reason for checking the drain is because refrigerant 134A is heavier than air and will seep to the lowest point.

Also check the brakelight switch. Also scan the computer for any trans. codes.

Thanks! Also thanks to everyone that said my site looks better! We sure think it is better than before!! Thanks again MM!!