MnTom

A lot of times you can pull the gauge out of the tank and repair it. The wiper on the sender looses connection and gives you wrong readings. Once you pull it you can see what you need to do to get it to work. Another thing, lifting the box is about the easiest way to get to it. A long box has eight bolts and a short box has six. Pull all bolts (15mm socket) EXCEPT for the two at the rear. Just loosen them. Remove the three screws holding the filler neck and lift the box to gain access to the tank. BE SURE you block the box so that it is safe to be under it. You don't want it to fall on you!

Shoot, I have a set of 16" steel wheels that would bolt right on that I would let you have for $100!! lol I forgot, I also have the chrome dress up rings for them too!

Glad it turned out to be something simple!

What you need to do is crawl under the hood and visually inspect all the wiring that you touched when you worked on it. It sounds to me like you accidentally pinched a wire somewhere. You don't need any special equipment to look it!

But generally if a fusible link melts there is no power any time.

If this just started after the fuel solenoid change then check the solenoid to make sure it is adjusted properly. I had something very similar happen to a '98 12v I was working on. The solenoid was lifting just enough to allow it to start, but would fall a little and shut the truck off. Seems to me that the relay should pull up about 1 3/4", but I am going by memory here.

I always thought the P1689 code meant the electronics failed in the VP?

Have you scanned it for code(s)? You may want to check your grounds, but the no bus indicates a problem between the ECM and PCM. Check the wiring for a possible frayed or shorted wire.

The stick on type of gauges do work, but they work by temperature since the boiling LPG is going to be colder than the rest of the tank. All you would need to do is feel the tank with the back of your fingers to feel where the cold line is when you are using propane. That is your level.

Check the first boot coming off the turbo. I had that one loosen a couple of times and it had one hell of a hiss and smoked a lot too.

Mr Mindless, you may not be having injector problems. Does your truck have a cat on it? Mine did and my '94 did when I got it. What happens is the cat plugs and you will run hot on the pyro, have smoke issues, and eventually not be able to build much boost. It happened to my '96.

Real simple. Just use a shop vac and put it on the outside of the drain and let it suck! The drain often gets some goop built up and the vacuum seems to work the best.

No, the one I have actually mounts on the center armrest. Follow the instructions and it is simple as can be!

Mine says it is a GIF 1x1 pixels........

It won't hurt it, but at that point you really should replace all freeze plugs and seals anyhow. Far as liner O rings, if you have them in your Cummins there has been some serious work done to the block. They don't come with them from the factory.

A couple of semi trucks I have driven have had ceramic clutches in them and they were either in or out. No in between. Grabby as all heck, but they sure didn't slip!

My daughter and I have this in our trucks: http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CUP-HOLDER-9802

I tried to download a FSM and it started out at 191 kb and I stopped it at 71kb a few seconds later. It dropped off real quick.

dodgethis91cmns, I have a couple of questions for you. First of all does your truck smoke white when you start it cold (I mean excessive, eye burning type)? Does it run rough when you start it cold and have trouble reving up until it gets run and builds a little heat? Does it seem to have a miss when cold? Those are symptoms of retarded timing. Does your truck have a cat on it? Chances are it does and it would be in front of the muffler under the passenger floor. They are known to clog and that will cause it to be a real dog too. That will also cause the EGTs to run high too. BOTH of those have happened to my truck.......

Sounds like a stuck brake. Did you check to see if any wheel was hot compared to the others? With old fluid it may have enough moisture in it to cause a piston to rust.

NAPA has them for about $50 too. I am on my second one. I only got about 100k miles out of the first one........

With a trailer that size you are required by law to have brakes on it along with a break away system to apply the brakes. The seven wire cord you are looking at is about $2.50 per foot around here at an RV dealership. You could just put an electrical box somewhere on your trailer tongue for the receptacle and then run wires for the different functions from there. Standard RV cords have TWO #10 ga. (bat. +&-), ONE #12 ga. (brakes), and FOUR 14ga. (lights & aux.) wires in them.

That sounds a lot like the gearbox if failing. You can get a gearbox at NAPA if money is tight. It isn't the 'top of the line', but it sure helps.

I had a return hose start leaking and boy did it drop my mileage!! I think I was down to about 2 GALLONS to the mile then, but fuel was pouring out something fierce!! Anyhow, I was thinking of the hard start with the lines sucking air. It very well could be an overflow valve problem too. Like Michael said, a fuel pressure gauge could be a good thing about now......... Is there any smoke of any kind that is not 'normal' for the truck weather cold or warm?

John, my understanding is that IF you move to another state and take up residency (buy or rent a house or apt.) then you need to register your vehicle(s) there. If you have a home or apt. in another state (sticks or bricks as the saying goes) then you are considered a visitor to another state. You must keep a physical address in your home state to still claim to be a resident. In other words, keep your current address as your permanent address and don't worry about registering your truck in Cali.