MnTom

There should also be a tag on the rear end that has the gear ratio too.

It does not load the engine enough to even be noticed, but it does warm up the transmission to make way easier to shift.

On an '02 you can cycle the key on, off, on, off, on without starting the truck and it will show MOST codes in the odometer window. If you see P1693 with no other codes means you need to get the truck scanned with an OBD II scanner. That is a companion code meaning there is/are code(s) in either the ECM orPCM or both.

I just wonder what caused the solenoid to burn up. Something held the pull up side energized too long.....I grew up about 40 miles east of Cleveland.

I used to do that with an older (1976) F-150 I had. Made the 4 speed feel like summer!

Here is some info that may help some http://www.quadzillapower.com/files/pdf/Dodge_Adrenaline_98-02_Inst_06_w-Pulse.pdf

Did the relay stick to cause the solenoid to be pulling so much power? My daughter ran into that problem with her truck and it turned out to be the harness by the left shock coming from the PDC that had rubbed on the mount. That was a son-of-a-gun to find! Hey, just noticed you are from NE Ohio. Where at? I am pretty familiar with that area.

Pressure washers work well, just don't spray the electronics. I have heard of people spraying everything down with Simple Green and letting it soak for five to ten minutes before power washing.

Joe, that is exactly the way mine went and now I have a good high pedal. I don't know if I could lock the front brakes or not, but it sure stops good. Give it some time and see what happens. Something else I did was every once in a while as I was using the truck I would crack both front bleeders and allow the fluid to gravity bleed for a second just to make sure the air was getting out.

I even went so far as to put thread tape around the bleeder threads just so they wold not suck air back in.........

There was one flying at an airshow I was working at. You think they whistle there wait until you hear one going low and real slow!!! I could even hear it real good without my hearing aids!!

Joe, I fought that same problem for SIX WEEKS! I literally went through GALLONS of fluid to get them to firm up. I tried FIVE different master cylinders, two sets of calipers, replace all rubber hoses and most of the steel lines and still could not get a firm pedal. Finally I got a consistent 1/2 pedal on the first pump but could still push the pedal to the floor if I tried. I gave up after even taking it to a dealer to see if they could get me brakes, but they claimed the brakes were fine. Anyhow, after about a year the pedal is fine! I have no idea as to why or how they got better, but they did. BTW, I have been working on brakes since there were drum on all four and no power brakes...... Yea, I am that old............

Your problem is the fuel screw. After you adjusted it you are dumping lots more fuel in at low boost than you should. Truck smokes at low rpms doesn't it? Try backing off the fuel screw some and see what happens.

I got mine at NAPA for about $6 each if I remember right (been a few years ago). On the underside of the roof there are stampings of where the factory lights would go. Pull the headliner and you will find them. Then run the wire down the A pillar to the headlight switch. It really isn't hard to do.

Very good possibility. Timing is not real hard to do, but the best thing is to TAKE YOUR TIME!!

That is the oil I used to run. It was good oil, that's for sure, but now I run synthetic. It makes my truck start a lot easier in the cold.

You can see some here (scroll to post #7 for pics): http://www.midwestdieselconnection.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3904

Get a good transmission and you will be surprised as to how powerful your stock truck actually is!!

I second the lock tite on the bolts. They do loosen up and make a mess. I have tabbed the KDP in 2 1/2 hours with hand tools in my driveway. Nice feeling to take care of it!!

Real simple to change out ain't they?? I put two sets in and it takes a lot longer to install the starter than it does to change the contacts.

First thing to think of is a better air intake and upgraded exhaust. Then start looking at turbos.......

That don't make sense to me. I have 3rd gen wheels ('06) and tires on my '96 and the hub caps fit good.

Just make sure that the gauge is capable of going to 100 PSI. You will see nearly that much pressure when the engine is cold, OR you could put a tee where the oil pressure sender is. Both places are 1/8" NPT.