MnTom

The easiest way to back off the adjuster is to use a small thin screwdriver (or something similar) Poke it in just above the starwheel (that is where the self adjuster is). When you push it you should feel some spring pressure then you can use your brake spoon (at the same time as you are pushing the screwdriver) to turn the starwheel to back off the brakes. Most of the time you would have a difficult time pulling the drums with the brakes adjusted up.

If there is metal coming off the ring and pinion there is something wrong. Either they were not set up properly or a bearing is failing or something. You NEED to pull the rear cover and see where the metal is coming from. The longer you let it go the worse it is going to be. Is there any noise that you can hear from the rear end? Howling under acceleration, deceleration, etc. all indicate different problems.

The prefilter with the heater is not required for our trucks. I have a '98 12v in my driveway that has had the prefilter by passed for the last five years. Being in northern Minnesota there has not even been one time it was gelled.

You mean the banner here or the banner on my site?

Unless the brakes need to be replaced, why are you taking the brakes apart to change the seal? Pull the axle and unscrew the nut. Pull the hub and the seal comes with it.

The easiest way I know to pull injectors on a 12V is to use a piece of 3/4" conduit or even pvc pipe about 1 3/4" long.m Once you get all the lines and the hold down nut off just slide the pipe over the injector. Screw a lugnut on and it will pop the injector out quite nicely!

The way I like to do things with the tank is to pull the three screws at the filler door, remove all the bolts (15mm) from the bed except the rear bolts (8 bolts total on a long box, 6 on a short box). Loosen the rear bolts to allow them to act as a hinge. Lift the front of the box and BLOCK IT UP [VERY important so it won't fall on you]. Then everything you need to reach is at a comfortable height to work on. There are times that fittings just don't want to cooperate so it just makes access way easier.

Why, THANK YOU Mr. Mopar1973man!!!! This change has been a long time coming, but it looks GREAT! Guys feel free to join or just post here and let me know what you think!!Tomp.s. We need to change the banner here now.......

Call this guy and he will give you straight answers: Dave Goerend

From what I understand the easiest way would be to use the dash out of the '95. Then everything would be just like it was originally.

This is the one that I have:You can find them for just over $100 if you catch them on sale.

You may want to try going to Control Panel > System > Device Manager and look for any yellow exclamation points. Click on the exclamation point and look at Properties. Post the info and we can go from there.

THIS is the proper way to set the timing on a P-7100 pump. Make sure that you look HERE for the with your CPL number to find the proper lift.

Do you have any type of programmer on your truck? I saw one that would start fine, allow the throttle to work for about 5 seconds and then run without the key even in the ignition and give a bunch of codes. That one turned out to be the programmer.

Even B-20 won't thicken enough to cause any issues at the temps we have been seeing. Also the explanation that was given by FASS is a bogus explanation. On ANY pump when you restrict the suction side the amp draw goes down like jumpjg says. If you restrict the pressure side then amp draw increases. When the fuse blows, is the element literally disintegrated and it looks like a flash has gone off in the fuse, or is the element for the most part still there? If it looks lke a flash happened then it means there is a large amp draw and is it is mostly intact it means there is a large enough load to heat the fuse causing it to blow.

I run a paper BHAF with out the Outerwares. I put the filter on not long after I got the truck on 05/01/01. Last summer I finally replaced my filter and I also had the filter minder mounted on the filter. I have not been able to pull the filter minder down even a little, but after 100k miles I changed it. The new filter was $50 so it only cost me $5 per year to run it bare. What I am trying to say in I don't believe they are needed. Oh, I also run a fair amount of dirt roads and tow a bit too.

There were air bags on my truck when I bought it over ten years ago and I have had NO problems or issues what so ever. I can level any load I have on and even a side to side problem. As long as there is nothing rubbing on a bag or a line they will last. How many semi's have you seen with blown air bags? That will give you an idea as to the longevity of them.

I don't have a 3500, but I generally go with the middle grade pads. The low grade ones are fairly 'soft'. They will stop you good and your rotors will last, but you won't get many miles out of them. The top of the line ones are good, but you will sacrifice rotor material to get long pad life, so the middle ones seem to be a decent compromise to me.

Another thing you can do is get a 6" long piece of a 1"x6" board. Lay it on top of the bolts sticking up and tap on the board with a hammer to mark the locations of them. Drill the board where the marks are and put it in over the bolts. That will keep the filter off of them and on the second gen trucks it will keep the filter off of the A/C line.

If you have the switch I think you do remove the knee bolster. Locate the switch and twist it counter clockwise 30*. Pull the switch out and grab the plunger. Pull the plunger out (it will stop). Reverse the instructions and your switch should be reset.

Try this with a vacuum gauge hooked up and tell me the results. When the engine in turning with the throttle plate closed it is producing maximum vacuum.

I am glad that you have had good luck with Fram oil filters. I will not run one on mine, but the air filters may be OK. I run a NAPA BHAF and it laster over 100k miles.

You may want to use cheap hair spray instead of WD40. The hair spray will lube things up and then act as a glue to help keep them in place.

I have a friend that bought an '06 and put aftermarket rims on and I just happened to be in the right place at the right time! I have not taken care of them like I really should, but they still look good and they dressed up my truck a bunch! BTW, I got them with the tires, lugnuts, and hubcaps for $600.

The inside of the wheels off of a rear disk truck are not as large as the ones off of a drum brake truck. I was told that you could grind the ridge off the drums and they would fit, but I am not about to do that. The 17" wheels have what looks to be the same offset as the 16" wheels. I am running a set of 17s off of an '06 on mine and they really upgraded the look of the truck.