MnTom

If you pull the module out of the tank you can see what is worn and how to fix it. On mine all I did was flip the wiper blade and VIOLA!!! My gauge has been working great for over six years.

Gittin' kinda personal, ain't cha???

Just as an FYI, the Ford truck wheels had the same bolt pattern up until the 2000 model year. After that they use a metric pattern that does not fit the Dodge trucks.

Buy yours back from the insurance company. You can find another dually bed and just swap it out. Then you have a truck you know.

These are all you would need. These happen to be from NAPA, LINK. You can get them from any auto parts store.

Hm.... Invent a fake wrist and you will be all set! Yea...... Anyhow, I am glad that you stood up to her and are finally getting some answers even if they are not what you wanted to hear. At least you can work on what you need to do for the future.

Well, that shot that idea down, didn't it??

I believe it holds about 12 quarts, but I have read that flushing is not a good thing to do since there is a possibility of dislodging some gunk and plugging up something else. You can figure about 7 quarts to change the filter.

Stupid question, but did you check your exhaust? If it is plugged (mine plugged the cat) the symptoms are real similar.

Two things come to mind. The first is an air leak. When was the last time you changed the rubber lines behind the fuel filter? The other thing that would cause the rough start is timing. To retarded and it will run rough until it warms up a little.

Are you getting anywhere with your HR?

Just be glad you aren't trying to camp in a state park here in Minnesota. ALL state parks are CLOSED!

I agree 100%! My cheapie generator is tough on electronics. According my meter it is a 120 cycles instead of 60. Digital clocks don't keep time real well that way.........

That is the best way...... 'Sides, my grand kids are all in school so there better not be any diapers!!

You offering???

About the only other way to not gain speed going down some hills is because of the wind resistance. Weight alone will push, but wind will hold you back.

OOhhh I hate that.......

That genny is very similar to mine. It is not as quiet as a Honda, but it is quiet enough to stand next to and have a conversation standing next to it without raising your voice. I won't run it at night in a campground, but it has run all night in the bed of my truck while I sleep.

Maybe you should discuss it with an attorney that has a free initial consultation.

From what I understand there is no reason to have the LP supply pressure to the return on the injectors. Why do you want to change the way the fuel is returned?

Seems to me the brake light switch would move with the pedal. Sure you don't need to adjust the switch itself?

If you filled out an accident report at work it is a work comp injury. Plain and simple. Your health insurance has nothing to do with payment. The work comp carrier is billed directly and you should not have to pay out a penny.

I have been towing in O/D for about 8 years now with ZERO issues. The way I tow my fiver (CGVW 17k+) is to lock out O/D when I start out, then when I am in DRIVE at about 2250 rpms I reach up and turn on the O/D at the same time I let out of the throttle otherwise the turbo will bark something fierce! I have had to drop out of O/D due to a long (18 mile) hill, but other than that I will allow the rpms to drop to about 1500 PROVIDED it will pick up rpms fairly easily. If not I will go back to drive and the to O/D as described above.

About 10 miles west of the western tip of Lake Superior!

I have a hard time with blaming the turbo since it was fine prior to the repair. I think it is either the key has been crushed or the fuel system is the culprit. Take a look at this chart to see if it will help: http://www.hiflo.com.au/troubleshooting.cfm