MnTom

The reason you saw oil leaks all over the place is that synthetics keep the inside cleaner. The leaks are there no matter what oil, but the dino oil allows some contaminates to build up along gaskets and seals effectively stopping the leak, but the synthetics will clean the contaminates and allow the oil to leak out.

Something to check on the OSS is the plug on it. If it has an intermittent connection it will act up. Mine has been a PITA and needs to be replaced. The plug is available separately and is not difficult to replace. Generally when that speed sensor does not have a connection the computer wants to downshift or not upshift at all. FYI the computer on your truck looks at the TPS and the speed sensor to determine what gear to put the trans in.

Keep in mind that until the CR engines came out the preferred power house was a 12 valve. I got to about 400 HP for less that $600.

Something to consider with synthetics is the expected oil change and related cost. If you figure the cost of an oil change with dino oil as often as is recommended vs. the cost of synthetic every year or 25k miles it costs LESS to use synthetics and it also has a lot less thermal breakdown in hot weather or towing situations. Cold starting is a lot better with synthetics too.I also run synthetics in everything I own.

Check your other thread.

The 96 trucks had RWAL (rear wheel anti lock). Another simple thing to check is your brake light fuse. I had a trailer short out once and popped the brake light fuse and both the brake and ABS lights came on.

Yep, start at the vacuum pump and follow the line to see where it is cracked. The vacuum controls ALWAYS 'default' to defrost as a safety measure.

Rogan, if you want straight answers to your questions just call Dave Goerend. http://www.goerend.com/ You can also go to his site and possibly get some of the info you need. Dave is very busy, so it may take him a little while to get back to you. Just to give you an idea of his service, my daughter was having an issue with her trans. and while I was on the road (3 hr drive one way) to go figure something out he called me on my cell phone and we had a 45 minute discussion as to what to do and how to get it going again.

Well, I can't say a whole lot, but the Union Rep I have been working with is going to discuss my 'situation' with a Union attorney tomorrow......

Well Michael, you should be able to catch me now. I got "dismissed" from my job due to a shall we say 'politics'. The company does not seem to want to follow a contract......... So now to get another job.....

Guys, the trans issue you are looking at is nothing but converter drain back. Totally normal in our trucks. All you need to do is start the truck and put the shifter in neutral for about five seconds to fill the converter and then go.

I passed that milestone a long time ago. I am at 265k and driving about 150 miles daily for work.......

You should come up here and see Lake Superior. I am only about 10 miles west of the tip of it. Just an FYI, Lake Superior has the largest surface area of any lake in the world. Lake Balkai holds more water, but is smaller in surface area.

I am the one that had to replace my head gasket. The reason I did was to fix a water leak by the water pump. Then I did have a gasket blow between #5 & #6, but that was a fault of the gasket I used. I can hit 36 PSI and higher if I turn up the propane..........

Since the ABS AND speedo quit it is more than likely the ABS sensor in the rear end.

Weird. I have no idea what the black rubber thing is for. Like you all I have seen is the seal, plastic piece and the metal ring.

Just takes time and turning a wrench. You should be able to loosen the manifold bolts without pulling the turbo (unless you want to).

Dave, when I had the head off of mine I pulled the manifold and put new gaskets on without any issue at all.

You are correct with that statement, SIR. This holiday is for remembering those who gave all for our freedom.

That sounds like it may be a caliper piston starting to stick and applying pressure a little sideways on the pad. Do the brakes pull to one side or the other? You may also want to pick up a set of bushings to make sure they slide properly. http://napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=UBP82999A_0326754558&An=599001+101998+50022+2022010+26528&Ar=AND(P_RecType%3aA)

I had a big leak at the plenum gasket too. The only way I found it was to make a boost tester, hook it up to air, and spray everything with soapy water. Seems like there isn't a 5.9 out there that either has or has had the plenum gasket leak.....

Thanks. Dave Goerend is always a good person to talk to! On another note...... Michael, don't you think it is a little TMI that you like to play with a penguin??

If the convertor is draining back then it will not make the truck move until it fills again. Your issue sound more like a convertor failure than anything else. It could be a mechanical issue or an electronic issue that is keeping the convertor locked. Check this page for how a convertor works: http://www.goerend.com/torqueconvertertech.php

Either that or the pull up side of the solenoid burned. IF that is the case you need to find out why it burned or you will burn up the next one too. About the only thing that will cause them to burn is a starter solenoid sticking.

Did you try putting it back to stock?