MnTom

Hm, You suppose?? Do like Mopartech said and let us know.

Evidently he needs lessons to tow that trailer and the guys pulling it out need some 'counselling' too........ With the drivers' skills he had no business on that road.

You guys are missing a key piece of information:

For the front nut all you need is a pair of Channel Lock pliers. You won't be tightening them anywhere close enough to even mar the nut. As long as you pack the bearings and tighten the nut properly you won't need to worry about the front bearings.

I had a Ford 302 that would sound just like a rod knocking when cold too. Once I got to the end of the block it would sound normal and not knock until the next morning. Never figured that one out. I also was running a 290 Cummins (1973 model) that had a knock in the auxillary drive gears (we thought) that sounded like a rod when it was run against the governor with no load. It ran over 80k miles like that and I quit so I don't know how much longer it was run like that. In other words some knocks can be very difficult to find and fix.

I don't know if injectors would cause a lope. I would expect a problem to show up trough out the rpms. I am suspecting a pump problem. Did you do anything different just before the lope started? Get fuel? How much of a lope is it rpm wise? How is the connection to the KSB solenoid and the shut down wire?

Here is a place that I got mine from: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Truck-Step/_/N-a6k1y?filterByKeyWord=truck+side+steps&fromString=search I have the AS600 on my truck. They hold up to get someone that is over 300# into my truck (NO!! NOT ME!!!).

But at least I get home!!:tongue:

That depends. Can you give us some more info? Lope only at idle or all the time or wide open? What year, transmission, etc? How long has it been since the last fuel filter change?

You LIKE scoring your wood?!?

I even complained about that when my trailer was under warranty. I was told that the swing was NORMAL! I argued since I have done HVAC/R that was abnormal but they would not do anything.

I got ya beat. I purchased mine 5/5/01 and 146,000 miles later (truck has 278,000 on it) I have never walked because of my truck and that includes it being a 2wd and winter time driving!!

My understanding is the Red Head box is among the top ones. You could also check out Borgson.

Do you have any issues with the bearings making noise or getting warm? Chances are you won't have any problem. I just returned from a trip from NE Mn to NE Oh and back towing my fiver. I had a brake issue and a new controller fixed it. Just check the normal maint. items and you should be good to go. IF you need anything there are lots of places to pick it up on your route. I used to go through Wi, Il, & In. but the tolls got to be wat too much. Now I go through the UP and lower Mich.Just bring a set of wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers, and a fuel filter.

You have the same dead VP code that JimRam has so guess what....... Dig deep.

I replaced mine a couple of years ago. Man, WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! Mine went from a 10* temp swing to holding about 2*. The only thing I ran into was I lost the medium speed on the blower switch. I had to connect the medium and high speed wires together to get the blower to run.

What...... Who me??

I know, "Everybody likes a little @$$, but nobody likes a Smart @$$!!":lmao2:

I have hearing aids and I sympathize with you. Hearing loss sucks. Mine are Sonus brand. They are digital, and the controls on either one control the other. They also are programmable so they will be good for many years. Mine have three different programs to choose from, normal hearing, noisy enviroment, and one for outside (cuts down on the wind noise).They were expensive though, abour $4k for the pair. I have decent insurance and only had to pay 20%. Oh, and they are the in the ear type. Unfortunately I cannot use the right one anymore due to me having Menier's disease in my right ear and have lost almost all hearing in that ear. Hell, I even wound up retiring due to the vertigo issues and my job. Now to get Social Security to go along with it.......

You can get mechanical fuel pressure and boost gauges! For fuel gauges a quick search on Google gave me about 1,480,000 pages and a boost gauge about 3,290,000 pages.

For flushing an A/C system most auto parts stores have something to flush them. Here is one example: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/A-C-Flush-Kit/_/N-263m Yes the expasion device is an orifice tube. It has a small hole to spray refrigerant through and is prone to plugging.

That would be about it, just replace the receiver/dryer, and make sure that the system is evacuated properly. If it holds a vacuum you can assume it is a leak free system. The heater core is seperate from the evaperator for the A/C. If the antifreeze is not leaking then the heater core is not leaking, but the evap could very well be leaking and without assembling the parts it can be difficult to tell if it leaks. You may be able to figure out a way to pressurize the evap to test it prior to putting it all together.

Shows you how much I know about them "New Fangled" Trucks!!:lol:

Yep, That will work!

Dang!! How comw every time I come up with something to help you shoot me down in flames??