MnTom

My daughters truck is in northern Minnesota and has not had a fuel heater on it since we got it home about 8 years ago. Not one fuel gelling problem ever.

Where do you get that info from?

Snopes says not completely true: http://www.snopes.com/photos/technology/fukushima.asp

Way, way back when I was in Jr. High I used to get a lot of nosebleeds. After seven in one day I got sent home from school. Finally the doctor cauterized one spot in my nose (burnt like you wouldn't believe) and that took care of them.

Russ, another thing that I have seen is a lack of lubrication causing a lot of friction with the internal parts of a coupler. I have a smaller trailer that has a slightly different set up, but if it gets rusty I cannot release it or have one hell of a time trying to hook it up.

I would say to change the coolant due to the additives depleting, change the power steering fluid, and definitely adjust the valves. Other than that just routine stuff.

You aren't the only one to do that........... I got a NAPA replacement (went through the same as you getting the wrong one) but the gauge would only read about 140* warm. I glued my old one back together and put it back in. It worked just like before (that was a couple of years ago), but now with the cooler weather it only shows 160* max and is steady as a rock even though it didn't do that before.

Today is Mopar1973Man's BIRTHDAY!!!!! HAPPY BIRTHDAY MICHAEL!!

Wish it was that cheap here. $3.879 is the lowest price close to me. Sorry, I lied..... I just checked Gas Buddy and it says that $3.699 is the lowest around here.....

Looks like Cooper and GoodYear make tires in that size.

Correct. I have been outside with -100* wind chills. Trust me, you make it a short stay outside at that temp!

The first thing to check is your trac bar. The ball end seems to be the main wear point. Just remember, when you check everything else all it takes is a little movement in the trac bar, plus a little in a tie rod, plus a little in a ball joint, plus......well, you can see how it all adds up.

They got beat a few years ago. Tower, Mn (just a bit south of International Falls) hit -60*! I have been in -40* and even that is cold. I can't imagine what -60* would be like.

Have you found anything yet?

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You got mine! Hope it is a short hospital stay!!

The cardboard one. There was probably a hole in the center that was about 8 inches in diameter (been a few years, trying to recall). All I know is my truck just doesn't seem to notice if it is there or not.

I ran one for a few years and then didn't. Guess what? I didn't see any difference in the temp gauge or the heat output.

I am running an HX with a lower stall speed convertor. Ii seems to spoon real close to what the original one did as best I can remember, but I changed turbos about 10 years ago. I like the way it works with towing though. I run less boost pressure than my daughter and she has the HY on hers. I also run way lower EGTs than she does and I have more HP than she does (365 vs 322).

You think that one is fun you should try a newer one! I have a 2012 Jetta Sportwagon TDI with a 2.0 DSG. That little engine really has some snort! You are right though, we get about 42 mpg on road trips. My son and daughter both have 2006 Jetta TDIs.

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Thanks, Dave! I guess I wasn't too clear on the divider. It divides the outlet so that 1, 2, &3 are separate from 4, 5, &6. #6 cylinder is usually the warmest cylinder. That is the reason to measure the rear half. This may help: https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSKDRzjZOzZYM9max1lz9-9NP8IA8k2N9e3-lwlwFlIF6gZR_-How

Maybe from a dead stop, but once rolling the smoke will be pulled toward the road directly behind the truck.

Since you are not going to a big turbo you can use the 0-50 psi gauge. If you used the 30 psi gauge you can over pressure it and then it is no longer calibrated and not reliable. Far as the pyrometer, in the manifold is the best place (pre-turbo). Just remember there is a divider right in the center of the manifold. Drill the hole at about 1/2 way between the rear of the manifold and the center of it.

Are you sure you don't have an air leak somewhere? Like maybe the return line on the back of the engine or even something around the heater? The rubber lines are known to leak air and not fuel. I have a hard time believing that your IP is bad. P7100 pumps usually last forever so if yours is wore out at 135k miles then it would really surprise me.