MnTom

You are even about 4 1/2 hours west of me!

If it stalls out in park then it is not an idle speed problem. I have seen mine idle at less than 500 RPM in park (makes it real tough to get going like that). When it stalls, tell me what it sounds like. Does it quit like you shut the key off, just gradually die out, or does it seem like something is trying to load it up and make it quit?

That was quite informative! I learned a bit there!

So what RPM does the engine idle at? It is supposed to be 750RPM warm in gear and the A/C on. That would put it 850+ in park.

Far as I have found out the only way to be sure which case you have is to open it up and look. I have tabbed a KDP and installed a new crank seal in about 2 1/2 hours with nothing but hand tools.

The CPS on a 12v is what tells the PCM the truck is running. That will energize the alternator, gauges, tach, and A/C too. Now you got me thinking.... What is your idle speed? To low would cause it to stall at an idle too, more so cold, but still cause a stall.

The first thing I would check is the fuel shut off solenoid. It sounds a lot like it is not lifting the shut down lever quite far enough. Check the boot on the bottom of the solenoid for deterioration and see if the linkage is corroded. You may also try starting the truck and see if you can lift the linkage any by hand.

Because they do wear out at the ball end.

You don't need any gaskets, but I would recommend a new crank seal. Just use the grey rtv and you should be fine. Also remember to check the bolts that are behind the timing cover. Some of them can come loose.

So, what kind of power do you speculate after the upgrade?

Here is another option: http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/manual-transmission-and-transaxle-gear-lube-75w-90/?code=MTGQT-EA

Just come straight up north! High today was about 46* and there is a possibility of SNOW three nights this week.......

Why are you mixing two cycle oil in a gasser?

If you feel a tire out of balance when you spin it by hand it must REALLY be out of balance!

If you spin the wheel and feel any vibration you have a bearing failing.

I just tighten it until it is good and tight. I have never put a torque wrench on one and have not had one leak yet!

It is not an overfuel condition. That would cause melted pistons. The problem is that the filter does not filter good enough and the dust (hence 'dusted') acts like sandpaper and wears the pistons/rings/cylinders prematurely. You are correct, though, the dirtier the filter is the more efficient it becomes. A 100% efficient filter is no good though because it will not even let air through........

I don't believe the speed sensor is your problem. If it was then you transmission will not upshift. You NEED to get the truck scanned to look for any code(s) stored. Most auto parts stores will do this for free. The problem could be anything from a bad governor solenoid to a bad PCM. On that truck the PCM looks at the TPS and speed sensor in the transmission to determine what gear to be in. If you can get the truck to a transmission shop for scanning. They would be able to see what the trans is doing and hopefully point you in the right direction.

How is your TV cable adjusted? It should be slack at idle but tight enough to start to move as soon as the throttle starts to move.

Take a look here: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/41-bhaf-big-honkin-air-filter

Especially when it cost me about $50 for 100,000 miles!!

Makes my NAPA BHAF feel even better.....

Geez, I missed that! sorry...... I found this:

Damn. Expensive!

That truck has a 47RE in it, but if the speed sensor is failing generally the transmission will not want to shift out of first or it will try to downshift to first no matter what speed you are at. It sounds a lot like the governor pressure solenoid is your problem.