MnTom

For your codes: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes P0222: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/163-p0222-idle-validation-both-low P0336: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/175-p0336-crankshaft-position-sensor-signal P0216: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/161-p0216-fuel-injection-pump-timing-failure P1594: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/220-p1594-charging-system-voltage-too-high P1689: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/228-p1689-no-communication-between-ecm-and-vp44 I would first start by checking all the plugs on the ECM and the VP for any corrosion. Make sure all the pins are clean and in place. Then put some die-electric grease on all plugs and reseat them AT LEAST THREE TIMES. In other words, put the plug on and make sure it is seated allthe way, then pull the plug and do it again and again. That would make sure you have clean connections. You may even wantto do that to the PCM plugs plus the large one that is on the firewall. When you put the plugs back on make sure all the wires are in the proper depth in the plugs.

Tyler, did you actually check for a worn cam lobe?

I just remembered somethng that may be the cause. My daughter's truck acted like yours. Hers was the mode fork in the transfer case. The plastic tabs wore out and the fork was about 1/2 wore also. It would sometimes go into 4WD and other times not. It is not hard to fix, but would be a PITA for you to fix in a parking lot.

Glad to hear you are going again! One thing to watch for is the turbo baring when it shifts into O/D. My truck will bark something fierce if I have over 10 psi boost when it shfts into O/D. What I do towing is lock out O/D, run the speed up to 55-60 mph then let out of the throttle, reach up and hit the button, then ease back in to it. That way I get no barking. Yea, I wish Goerends built them too. Even the customer service is not what it used to be.

It is possible that the plastic devices that hold the linkage in place are worn too. They are easy to get also. http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/door-lock-rod-clip

But didn't you say you checked it at the battery? The battery will absorb a little bit of the AC that's why I said to check it at the stud on the alternator. If you are at .09vac then it wouldn't take much to be at or above .1vac at the source.

I agree with Ed. You will need to pull the front end all apart for either a cam or a block swap, but I would swap the cam.

It may not need a new actuator. Pull the four bolts and make sure everything moves good.

That sucks. I wish I had better and more ideas for you.

When you check for AC check it at the alternator for a more accurate test. With the numbers at the battery you are probably above .1 volt AC. Like TFaro said, disconnect the alternator and see how it drives.

Keep in mind the recommended idle speed (in gear WITH A/C on) is 750RPM. To get mine there it idles at about 900RPM in neutral. That really doesn't seem to be a problem EXCEPT when it is real slick out.

Congrats, Chris! It makes a guy feel good when he can fix things like this!! Good going.

As far as I know they are all the same. The only difference is the key itself that needs to match the pump.

John, there is always this place, but I don't know if they have an emergency contact number: http://oregonfuelinjection.com/index.php?page=sec/rebuilt-injection-pump-injectors.htm

They are both used together for polution control. Here is a website that explains it a little better and has a video that shows the basics: http://www.demanddetroit.com/performance/emissions.aspx

What I would look at is the wiring and plugs for the transmission. You may have had a pin push out of a plug and that could cause your problem.

That sure sounds like it is Death Wobble. See what happens when the pitman arm is new.

John, the way to prepare the panels for paint depends on how much rust there is. If the original paint is in decent shape then all you need to do is scuff the paint good, but if the paint is chipped off then there is a lot of sanding to be done. By the time you get done feathering the paint you wind up almost remiving all the paint. Once you get done with the sanding a couple of coats of primer is more than enough. The base coat is going to take enough coats to cover and hide the primer. If you are going with a clear coat, then I would put probably four or more light coats on.

Unhooking the batteries is not a bad thing. If you do then you could clean any connection anywhere and not wory about shorting anything.

Does it start when you hit a small bump and shake the steering wheel? If so then you probably have been experiencing the imfamous "Death Wobble". Any loose parts in the front end will contribute to it. Also if you max out the caster it seems to help a lot for it too.

Yea, they are expensive...... I don't think I would have spent the money on them either, but it is nice to be able to push a button and they extend or retract.

The LEDs are not even hooked up. I had them hooked up for a while, but after a few quit I unhooked them. I get a vertical bright spot out of both of them, but that is off to the right so it is not much of a problem.

I have Power Vision on mine and they extend by a push of a switch (they were on it when I bought it). http://powervisionmirrors.com/mirror_styles

I can actually see pretty good, but not as good as I want. They sure do light up signs good though! New versus old

You are going to like the converter! That is the same one I have and at 365hp and 833tq I have not had it slip EVER!!! Then I add propane and I am guessing close to 400hp and still as good as you would expect. My transmission is not built up that much, (mostly stock parts by Dave G), but after about 100k miles there was almost no wear in it. I did manage to break the front drum though..........