Wild and Free

I am not sure why you are doing this on an engine like that, personally on that old iron if added lube is wanted why not run used engine oil instead ? That old fuel system runs at a low pressure and has tolerances much like throwing a hotdog down a hallway versus the new systems.

More important is how is the A/C performance now? Pressures look good, I have been doing A/C work on all types of equipment for over 20 years and A/C charts are nothing more than a very "General" rule of thumb not to be depended on totally, what I find odd is that you have that much Freon in it, the factory amount is about the only "Close" spec that can be depended on, but some systems can be extremely finicky.

My 02 long box quad cab had a factory resonator and muffler, no cat.

Up until 2008 or so they came with a factory resonator,Cat and muffler, DPF's came about around 08 on the 6.7 Cummins.

Fixed it lol, reading one thing and thinking another.........Happens a lot more since I broke 40 a couple years ago.

He was reading the signature of CUMMINSDIESELPWR , look at his sig from post #11 above, says he has the dpf "Diesel particulate filter" deleted which didn't come along until around 2008. Nothing to do with you. - - - Updated - - - While towing with my 02, I ran 1250-1300 consistantly for years with no issues. Measured Pre-turbo rear section of manifold collector. I know guys with modded 3rd gens who never see anything less than 1200 while towing full time.

From all I have learned and read about this from several law enforcement officials and lawyers is you had better be shooting factory loaded defense rounds if it ever came down to it, There have been many "Victims" put in jail for shooting someone else in self defense for not using factory loaded self defense ammo and instead used hand loaded rounds or other "Noncompliant" rounds. This is one of the first things most lawyers look at and jump on. This is one thing they actually hit on hard in any CCW class as well, anything to keep you out of trouble with the law even though you are doing the right thing.

Been so many years ago since I did the muff delete pipe I can't remember if it is not utilizing a hanger or not.

The Cats are short enough that you could piggy back the resonator directly behind the Cat if you wanted and probably have the same result. - - - Updated - - - I still have the factory exhaust with nothing but the Cat left and the drone is killer while towing, just normal DDing is tolerable but once there is a load on its horrible.

Resonator as far forward as you can get it, then the Cat and then the muffler.

There is a difference between service style beds and flat beds and tow beds. His was a dedicated tow bed with a couple storage compartments.Don't lump them all into the same category guys, they all have a different purpose. I have had just as many pickups over the years with flatbeds and service beds as I have had boxes.

Yes they do have a good safety margin built into them for safety, usually 10-20%. If you can't find them used for less than a thousand you definately need to go with a B&W gooseneck turn over ball with a companion and be done with it, you will have the best of the best. I just missed out on a used B&W Companion locally for 500, sold almost as fast as it was advertised.

Nothing to worry about, if they were all consistant then someone previously set them before hand. If a seat or valve was failing you would have one that is really far out versus the rest and usually it wouldn'y last longif it was pounding out.

Just spend the 80 or so bucks now for the short resonator and be done with it, I guarantee you are not going to like a cat alone, that is what I have now and it is bad while towing just as you have now. Why do it twice when you know what the outcome is going to be?:ahhh:Like I said the resonator needs to go as far forward as possible.

You will have plenty of room for the ong one, the short one kills the drone but keeps the exhaust sound nice, the long resonator kills drone and slightly muffles sound too either combined with the cat will be nice and tolerable.

I know Amsoil users had good luck with it as well and we would use it if a customer requested it or supplied it but from a service center stand point they couldn't justify the extra cost of putting it in otherwise and the store didn't stock much more than what they used mainly for oil to keep overhead down.

Fuel supply and rail pressure while cranking is ?

Was stock quiet but the stock mufflers are the biggest restriction on these rigs more so than the converters. I would definately do the resonator and cat combo right away or you will not be happy with the results and will have to do it over again.:thumbup2:How soon do you need a cat? I will be ditching mine in the future for a new after market 4" system with a 30" FTE resonator as the only thing in the system and will have a converter to give up if you are interested.

I still have the factory exhaust on my 05 QCSB and it has a cat on it, I did do a muffler delete pipe and there is still a lot of drone while towing but not bad just DDing.If you need a cat get a resonator and mount it as far forward as possible and put the cat behind it would be the best combo to kill the drone and meet regs. Does it have to meet NOX standards to pass a sniffer test where you are moving or just have to have something that resembles a cat in the exhaust to pass a visual inspection?

When I worked at Inland Truck Parts and Service, we had tons of trannys come in with lots of issues related to the wrong lube, On all the NV trannies in Dodge and GM rigs we found that the Pennzoil synchromesh was the best oil but we actually bought it from GM as it was the penzoil product labeled as GM tranny oil but was cheaper than penzoil branded containers believe it or not.Problem was with the synchros and not the main gears or bearings, any oil other than the synchromesh would kill the synchros and cause very hard shifting.I have not had the chance to work on or have anything to do with the newer G56 trannies though. If the synchro material can handle the heavier oil then all is well.

Better to be on the tight side rather than loose.

Thats why I am calling you a thief. How do you sleep at night having taken advantage of a clueless seller.

If they are aluminum lines you may have over tightened them and cracked the lines at the flare or just behind it under the nut, take the line off slide the nut back and look for a"Hair" line crack, it will literally look like a very small fine hair and can be hard to see. Even galvanized lines can crack fairly easy if over tightened. They can also just mush out to far to seal properly if overtightened as well the nut bottoms out before the flare seats tight at that point.

From what I see roller trailers are not too popular anymore although there are a lot of guys who like them, Bunk trailers sell a lot better now days.

I personally like/liked the look of the flatbed.:2cents:But coming from a farm/ranch and service background I am partial to beds instead of boxes.