Wild and Free

On my wifes old 1995 Dodge Neon bought brand new I ran 0-30 amsoil and I changed the oil filter only at 7500 miles and between there and 15K miles it would burn off enough to be on the add mark and I would do a complete service and then do a filter change at 7500 ect. Ran it up to 310K before selling it, she just got tired of driving it.

I think some of the hair fell off my chest after eating some of the new batch I have. I won't comment on the pencil.

It is part of the mustard family and is used as a condiment in most cases or eaten on crackers ect. It has many health benefits read about it below. http://www.herbreference.com/horseradish.html

I would lean towards a wiring issue somewhere along the lines with all that has been done and from the description.My old 02 would run super when cold and once warmed up to operating temp would miss at idle and no load up to about 2k rpms, just a slight load even just the ac compessor running would smooth it out put it in gear and it would not miss.I swapped out my 150 hp aftermarket injectors with a different brand smaller 100 hp injectors and the miss disappeared.

Horse Radish grows wild around my mother inlaws farm and her neighbor just gave us a jar of home made stuff and it burn your sinuses from about a foot away from the jar but it is good...........at least the first couple mouth fulls and then you can't taste anything else for an hour afterwards.:stirthepot:I grew up with home made horse radish, like I say it grows wild here, but I can say the wild grown stuff is 50 times more potent than commercial stuff.:drool:You don't make it smell strong, that is just the make up of the root, some are stronger than others and it depends on the year and growing conditions much like any other plant.

There is an intake heater that is warming up the air inside the intake manifold so that the engine will start better, if it is warm enough it hurts nothing to just start but when it gets colder it will start a wee bit harder due to not having warm air to pull into the cylinders to aid in combustion.

I read and read all these threads and just have to laugh at the poor mileage complaints in the mountain country. I have had 5 Rams and 2 have been cummins, I have had all 5 on road trips through the mountains several times and I can say that over the average of 5 rams 3 Gassers 95 1/2 ton 360 mag, 99 2500 LBQC 4x4 V10, 2010 hemi, and 2 Cummins I will 100% always get 3-4 mpg more running through the mountains than I do in my home country with long grade rolling hills and wind. - - - Updated - - - As far as the oil goes My 02 would always stay fairly clean up to around 5K miles on the oil before one couldn't see through it on the dipstick. I tried to do the same thing as AH is doing here on my 05 a few years ago and I taught myself some new words when I went to refill with new Amsoil 15w-40 after doing a dyno oil flush and brain farted it out and forgot to put the drain plug back in. Didn't realize it until I had about 2 gallons poured into it already and heard it running out.:banghead::banghead:. I just don't worry anymore. I have seen oil come out of gasser engines over the years that make our 3rd gen oil look like new. At a previous job we had a service contract with Ameripride linen company to do all the service work on their rigs, They were all GM chassis with V8 gassers both big and small blocks, we used Conoco 15-40 oil and they ran it up to 10K miles on all oil changes, We only replaced one engine with low to them mileage of 250K miles andd that was due to a waterpump leak ands over heated it. They had a lot of 300-400K mileage gassers that were running strong with 15-40 Conoco dyno oils since new. That made a statement to us all of the quality of Conoco lubes and capability of things that most sweat about going a mile over 3k miles on a conventional thinking oil change.

This is just from my own experience, I see them both ways on mine, If I pull the filter when it is still somewhat warm it is usually always full, If I pull the filter when cold they are most often down a bit. I find this same thing on most all engines I service.If the engine is hot I will drain the sump and let things cool for a while before pulling the filter and this is when I will always see the filter pulled down a bit, not sure if it syphons back due to the sump drain or not.

It isn't going to hurt anything without it like I said you may develop a chatter while cornering. 75w140 isn't going to hurt a thing at all either just saying its just overkill for your needs.If its what tickles your fancy and pocket book just go with it, sounds like you already had your mind set on it.

I have used Redwing mink oil for years and if one applies it on a regular basis does keep things in nice shape.The key to any leather treatment is one has to religiously keep up on it to do any good long term especially if wanting them to be what I would call " Water repellant or resistant" rather than water proof, water proof leather is from my experience nothing but a selling point.

With gas being 3.60 and diesel being 4.20, I have not driven it other than the day I loaded the new tune and went to town to try it. I loaded SW#1 all defaults and it seems a bit more peppy and the engine idles noticably quieter with less timing ping/rattle than before. I will pass judgement until next summer when I start weekly towing of the camper and pontoon again. I don't see any other work in the forseable future as of now. At current fuel prices the Hemi will be the only thing rolling down the road.

I think the word in your last post pretty much sums it up, looks like it has recycled Motorcyle parts in it hence "recycling". :smart:Gotta love home brewed inginuity.

The week link in the system due to built in low factory pressures is the lockup clutch, and it is easy to feel when it slips. That is how I knew it was time to upgrade the converter and VB on my 02 with only 20k miles on it when it was bone stock with nothing but an Edge EZ. My 05 has held up flawlessly even while regularly towing heavy on SW#3 "Old tune". It has 105K and if it starts to slip now I feel I have got more than my fair share of "Abuse" out of it then.:whistle:I have been waiting for an excuse to upgrade the converter and vb but have not "Felt" the need yet.

Not luck, just knowledge of how things work and how to use them short of abusing them.

Don't always believe what you read. The clutch type limited slips do not like full synthetics without friction modifier. I had this go round years back and talked with both eaton and amsoil tech departments back and forth and it came down to the fact that the clutch disc manufacturers have not kept up with the rest of the industry in regaurds to designing clutch material that works well with full synthetic oil without the need for additives and even some syn oils even with modifiers will still cause thew discs to chatter. For example the amsoil severe gear brand lubes always resulted in chatter even with double dose of modifier and the regular amsoil gear lubes did not, it all comes down to the additives in the oil.I would still not reccomend a 140 oil in the North country unless it pulls 20K+ loads all day everyday.

Well having had a fairly highly modified 2nd gen and a 3rd gen I can say the stock 3rd gen tranny will hold a heck of a lot more HP and TQ than the 2nd gens. My 02 would chatter and slip the stock converter with nothing more than an Edge EZ at 200HP and 400 tq on the dyno . My 05 with 105K and running sw#3 full time for about the last 50K has no issues at all at 407 hp and 750 tq on the dyno and no tq converter slippage at all.The only thing I can see being hard on it is if going to the most aggressive TQ setting. It all comes down to common sense. I sold my 02 with 150K on the clock it was running 560 hp I drag raced and power pulled, I added a single disc BD converter and VB and had to replace the output shaft after it snapped but the main tranny was still ticking when I sold it and had never been rebuilt.

I had the same issue got tired of clearing a large driveway one bucket at a time with my old ford loader tractor. You have better luck than me. I could only dream of a deal like that. I looked for a used one for a long time and couldn't find any in the 60" range and wound up buying my blower brand new. Bigger blowers for full size tractors are more common and easier to find for under a grand but not the subcompact stuff even used it brings near new price around these parts.

None on the rear, I thought of that but am leaning towards an electric motor or cylinder of some sort.

It does have the mid PTO but I will not be getting a belly mower as I already have 2 mowers. I have been looking to do something different with the chute handle like you stated but have not decided what or how yet.

I finally took some pics of my new toy. Kubota B2150 4x4 24 hp 4 cylinder 1.2l naturally aspirated diesel.Has 950 hours on it.Did a full end to end service and amsoiled it 100% right down to the coolant and fuel additive. All filters changed.Added a cutting edge to the bucket and added a rearward facing work light.Repaired a few minor items I found that needed attention as one would expect with a 15+ year old piece of equipment. Tractor came with a box scraper and the brand new loader already mounted, loader has a universal quicktach and came with a rather large 68 inch wide bucket but it should be perfect for snow removal. I already had the 60 inch Jinma snowblower.Got the snowblower mounted and am ready for the snow. Sounds like we could start getting it tomorrow.

Are the SW tunes that more aggressive on the newest POD jr software? They are rated at the same HP as the old tunes. I have been using the old original JR tune sw#3 full time for over 50k miles and have had zero issues even towing, I set it and forget it. Other than the heavy smoke it was ok.

A full synthetic 75w90 would be the best choice overall.:thumbup2:Just make sure to add the friction modifier to the rear diff oil or you will get chattering or popping in corners with the clutch type limited slip. It hurts nothing but can be annoying to some.

In the 80's the old chevy chevettes got close to 40 mpg and my wife had a 95 Dodge neon 2DR coupe 5 spd which averaged 39 and on roadtrips would do 42 mpg. The hybrids barely do this 15 years later and we call this progress

Everyone needs to read the book "The Law" the classic blueprint for a free society" written by the French statesman Frederic Bastiat at a time in their history when they were at a point where we are right now closer to socialism than a Republic. it is an easy read it is only 70 pages and the last 11 pages are just quotes from him as a statesman in the French Government in the 1840's. It is the best writing I have read that lays things out in lay terms of what exactly we are facing today. History always repeats itself and this book will prove it more than could be imagined. I recently read it and thought he was alive and writing it for current events.

The government wants vehicles clean not efficient. Effiniency leads to lost tax revenue due to less fuel sales. Most think big oil buys out the inventions for high mileage vehicle over the years when in reality is is the scared government who doesn't want to loose all the tax revenue it rakes in from 15 mpg vehicles.