Wild and Free

Pinion preload and depth setting is set the same way with shims under the bearings and between race and case. But unless you have a bearing failing on the pinion there is no reason to remove it or mess with it.

I like to remove the bearings from the old carrier to get to the shims underneath but since you are going with a new carrier that will change so you need to start from square one, the old pack will get you close but usually need to add or subtract shims anyhow. The shims set both back lash and preload. You first need to set preload and this will determine the amount and thickness of shims needed, then you work with that pack and set backlash last by moving the shims back and forth as needed to get proper back lash spacing between ring gear and pinion.

You don't need to touch the pinion at all to swap the carrier.You will need a shim kit and some set up bearings which have a slightly bigger inside diameter inside the race so you don't have to press and pull them off. The shims on a Dana carrier are between the bearing and case. You will need to go in and out quite a few times to get things shimmed properly. This is the worst part of Dana set ups, setting them up is a pain as compared to most other diffs. After you have it shimmed correctly then you press on the new bearings. And put the setup bearings on the shelf to collect dust until you need to set up another carrier.Make sure you check backlash on your existing gears before pulling them out for reference when setting up the new carrier bearings. I like to set things as close to .008" backlash as possible. A couple thousanths either way is fine.

:thumb1:I just installed a 4" thick Wix 49946 air filter from amsoil last night and the fitment was perfect actually better than the amsoil I took out, it replaced the amsoil filter which has served its purpose so we will see how this new one performs. I drive a lot of gravel roads and was surprised to find how much sand was inside the filter box this time around that I had to vacuum out, I too have the cold air intake mod to the stock box. I had not checked it in a while.

From all I read the best way to fix this issue on a 3rd gen is to install the DTT trans controller. Read nothing but great things about it.

My latest #'s are 02 Ram=130k05 Ram=94k03 Jetta TDI= 178k

The aluminum rims from the 01-02 Rams with rear disc brakes will fit only 01-02 rigs for reasons stated above. They won't fit over drums of older Rams and they won't fit over the bigger brakes of the 3rd gens.

Not at all. Remove the axles, Pull the carrier assembly from the axle housing, remove the ring gear and then split the case and there they are.

Man I don't know where everyone is buying parts but I have put several clutch kits in and never paid over 50 bucks for the disc pack. I have seen a few people post the 200+ for ls kits. I think they include side gears when you can buy just the clutch pack kit alone.As far as tire wear or pushing through corners it is not noticable unless you drive around town and make slow speed turns all day on dry pavement.

They do not trac any diferent than an open diff, you just need to learn to drive with them in slippery conditions. Not any different than any other locker or limited slip just tighter in turns.

Why not just reclutch the factory limited slip the way its supposed to be stacked and it will be tighter than you would expect. not to mention a fraction the cost and work to do. Oems stack the clutch pack to be intentionally loose so they don't get complaints of ratcheting and snapping. When properly stacked they will act almost like a full locker.

No problems at all.

PM sent to you.

Mine is always pulled up on my 05, even installed new amsoil filter and it still pulls up with little effort.

Narrows it down to piston or bearing/bushing. Hard to see in the videos, But it looked too shiny for either so It could be chrome off cam lobe or follower. Can't remember right off if the lift pump has a lever or roller that rides on the cam if roller it could be chrome from it as well.

Did you run a magnet across it to see if it ferous or non-ferous metal?

Guy on another forum has an 05 fairly modded and tows at really high egts all day on road trips, I think I read he will run 1400+ and has not had a problem.

Get an oil sample after its warmed up and take it or send it to a lab, if you have a CAT dealer they can do it. It will identify what material it is and possibilities of where it comes from. That way you are not chasing, you can get a more accurate idea where to look.

He is actually soaking up some easy gravy money right now in the oil patch of ND. Dang oil patch is pulling in rif raf from everywheres.

When you cut the filter open and cut a section of filter media out of it, the way to check for debris is to colapse the accordian media and wrap a rag around it and the put it into a vice and squeeze the oil out which is what the rag is to sop up and then the debris is easier to see when you open the media back up. as it will show up better when the dark oil is gone and it is embedded in the media.

what would this resistance want to start to grenade. what is going to be the weak point if you were just to come to a stop in first and just mash the brakes and make it slow down and die? Just curous. Maybe it will help us find the solution unless no one thinks it would cause BIG problems....??

I couldn't resist picking the "What noise" choice as I can't hear it with 75% hearing loss in one ear and 25% loss in the other and to cheap and stuborn to get some aids.

If you are talking about your 12v in your sig it show you have a manual and in that case you would not have a flex plate as that is what connects the crank shaft to the torque converter on automatics. I think you are referring to the clutch pressure plate that mounts to the flywheel and if it has a broken spring/springs in it will cause knocking noises or if the springs fell out and are rattling around in the flywheel housing will cause noises as well as worn input shaft / pressurep plate splines. These noises are usually only noticed at low rpm or while drive line is light to unloaded Did you check for exhaust leaks through out the system or cracked manifold ect? I am partially hearing impaired so I couldn't hear the noise in the videos so I can't help in that department.

Funny thing around here during dry years is that most prarie fires are pretty much guaranteed to be on the indian reservations. They start them on purpose because the govenment pays the reservation natives huge amounts of money to fight them. So they keep starting them to keep making easy money. It does the prarie great to be burned off though as it revitalizes it like nothing else the next year.

From what I read of where you hunt in the eastern and east central parts of ND you will find nothing but bull snakes and gardner snakes. You need to get to the west side of the Missouri river and west 1/3 of the state to get into rattler country. You need to head west out of that flat lander duck pond area to really appreciate the state. I rarely ever go anywheres east of Bismarck as its way to flat and boring for this guy. I was born and raised and live in the river break hills along the south and west side missouri river where there is actually scenery and character to the landscape.