Wild and Free

Had one on my 02 for about 7 years and not a single issue. If you stay with standard brightness or maybe I step above they lights last just fine. I have tried hotter bulbs and yes they do burn out fairly fast from the heat, but with standard bulbs I have no issues with bulbs not lasting, I think I changed out 1 bulb in 7 years that burned out. I bought a couple sets of hotter lights to try and they burned out within a few weeks and I just put the stock bulbs back in and no more issues. Bright box makes a huge difference on high beams but watch out when you switch to low beams you will feel almost blind.

Mike do you do the technical support for the forum?I like the site but I don't go there often due to the slowness of it all the time.Haven't been able to get into the forum from the welcome page as it just sits and thinks forever and I just give up on it. I get through maybe 1 in 5 tries and even when inside the forum it is the same slowness. Could you help get the bugs worked out please.:banghead:

I am gearing up for a huge home improvement project and am down to 2 choices for choosing my contractor for a new furnace and central air unit.Question comes down to which is the better brand between the 2 choicesHeil or tempstar?These 2 contractors are only a couple hundred dollars apart for there bids and these are the brands they sell.looking for advice as to which is best?Any help appreciated.

They are longer due to the lift, the body is farther from the axle and they need to be longer to keep the caster angle correct. No matter what the axle can not be back because the spring mounts are part of the front frame and if the axle was back further the springs wouldn't align with the spring mounts on the frame the springs would be at an angle also.

They can't be too short. If they were you wouldn't be able to drive it because the caster would be so far off you wouldn't be able to keep it on the road not to mention the fact that it would change the angle of the drive line among other issues. Just a few milimeters of adjustment the caster adjustment cam bolt gives will change the way it handles and steers a lot so you can imagine what would happen if there was a visible difference in them.

Don't they have replaceable bushing in the ends?

Yep just take the four bolts off and remove it no need to remove any other parts. There is no index for it as the engine is internally balanced it is just that a dampner, not a balancer. It comes off as one piece,its two pieces fuses together with a rubber center which should be in good shape if not replace it with a fluid dampner. Clean it with whatever you choose to as you won't hurt it any.

When it rolls over to zero and you get just a couple thousand more on it give it a new paint job and sell it as a next to new rig.

I haven't followed the newer rigs but I have seen 2 newer rigs like yours along side the road with blown up transfer cases already. when the t-case explodes it is usually always due to a bad CV on the front driveline. Looks like they have a issue here. Unless people are not greasing them as I know they went back to greasable cv's in the 3rd gens and most people don't know how or where to grease them. Good to see you caught it before dynomiting the t-case.

If you regularly service it and the oil isn't burnt and contaminated then a drain and filter change is good. They use ATF 4 or any compatibale synthetic auto tranny fluid. To do a flush just take the tranny cooler lines off and blow compressed air through it to flush and drain the cooler system blow into the front line and catch it from the back line as this is the flow you can't blow back through the other way as there is a check ball in the cooler line at the heat exchanger on the passenger side of the block under the turbo. You can also put a small amount of air into the front cooler fitting to back flush the converter. this is messy and you need to hold pressure on it for a while to get the oil to push back out. I do this every change and it gains you about 3 extra quarts drained per change. Edit: I just saw you have a newer rig than I thought but it should be the same. Not sure if the new rigs have a heat exchanger like the older one do. Where in SD do you call home?

Your VP44 is dead and needs to be replaced period with the problem and codes you have. You will also need to put a new lift pump and fuel pressure gauge on with it out of neccesity. To reset the apps unhook both batteries for a few minutes then reconnect them. Turn key on but do not start. push accellerator pedal slowly and completely to the floor and slowly let up the pedal all the way turn key off and its done.

Anything 03.5 and newer has a 48re and they are good trannies. The 05 just has a weird pcm program that can be dealt with by adding a tranny controller box from dtt suncoast ect so you can have both tow haul mode and OD off option. 03-04 could be reflashed so you could get both functions and 06+ came from factory with both options standard. Yes they can be improved with a converter and VB like any other stock auto tranny.

Double post but just in case some one doesn't read the other thread here it is again. Hold onto your wallets because its going to be interesting from here on out. Oil Crisis Just Got Real: Sinopec (Read China) Cuts Off Oil Exports http://www.zerohedge.com/article/oil-crisis-just-got-real-sinpoec-cuts-oil-exports BTW its 4.23 in Bismarck ND today.

Hold onto your wallets boys and girls because here it comes. Oil Crisis Just Got Real: Sinopec (Read China) Cuts Off Oil Exports http://www.zerohedge.com/article/oil-crisis-just-got-real-sinpoec-cuts-oil-exports

Your Vp44 is dead like Mike pointed out and as far as the last question goes he was asking you if you have an adjustable boost elbow installed on your turbo to increase boost pressure. If you do it can trip a code if you don't have a boost fooler or some kind of electronic power adder like an edge or others installed to fool the computer.

The 48 re is a good tranny, has heavier lockup clutch than 47 re had problems with. But yeah you can still improve by adding an aftermarket VB and converter. which would run around 1200-1500 for decent ones. Not much more than a quality clutch. Sad to say that Fords auto trannies behind their diesels are hands down the best out there.

What year are you looking at? Early 03 had 47 re and mid year 03.5 went to 48re. the 05 has a different pcm program that will not allow a reprogram to turn OD off and tow haul mode also. You get either or, they came from factory with tow haul but can get a pcm flash to make the button turn OD off instead. There are aftermarket tranny control boxes that allow it to do both so there are options if you get an 05. 06 and newer have both setings from factory just hit the button once or twice for od off and for towhaul mode.

Did you put in a factory oem part or aftermarket part?

The bar itself is not the issue, they can be as heavy as can be but if the socket in the end is made with just as an example plastic lining versus a machined ball socket what difference does it make how beefy the bar is? The bar isn't what goes bad its the end that does.

Another super site and company here also http://quad4x4.com/#Links_To_Our_Other_Web_Pages

Get hold of this company and or research the site. They are a very good company to deal with. Both technical and parts wise. http://www.ringpinion.com/

Did you have the dash panel "gauge cluster" pulled back? If so make sure the connector is fully connected into the back side of it. I have had the no cluster bus before and it was due to the connector behind the dash coming loose while rooting around behind it.

I just click o advanced search at top right and then choose the tab at the top to search single content types. Then enter your key word. Mike added a tag box now also. He wants everyone to help with this at the bottom of every thread there is a tag box to enter key words to help the search engine find posts and threads with specific info.

The flex plates are known to crack. Just look at the engine mount bolts to see if there has been any movement,"Highly unlikely" and inspect the dampner if the rubber is squashing out or severely deteriorated then I would replace it with a fluidamper. These engines are internally balanced so it won't cause any harm but it just takes up small vibrations to smooth things out. Look at all the cab mounts and make sure they are not broke.

Not to be dumb but Have you checked to make sure the TV cable and shift linkage are adjusted correctly? Do the shift points seem to be about right or the same rpm as the old tranny? Is there a speed sensor on the tranny and if so did you swap it over from your old tranny?