Wild and Free

Doesn't and won't hurt a thing to hold it wide open no load. Thats what the governor is for. I have a friend that works at a GM dealership and when they get corvettes in with failed crankshaft sensors they need to be recalibrated and to do that they stomp the accellerator to the floor and the computer lets it go to full rpm and back by itself in a procedure called a block relearn calibration. the first time he did it the customer was standing there flipping out seeing his brand new 60k vette being run at full throttle. After that event they no longer let customers see that procedure.

If you do a search here there is a thread I posted in with pics and factory part # for a factory line with temp sensor port in it also. --- Update to the previous post... I did the work for you. Here is the link to the thread with dodge part # and pics of it. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1135-Installing-Tranny-temp-gauge?highlight=sensor

Which line is it? Factory would be about the only choice you got unless its the front line coming out the side of the tranny which you can get from DTT which will have a sensor port in it.

Here is a link http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php If its the line assembly from the compressor its 130 bucks and if its the other all aluminum line its like 30 bucks.

It just had to be a 5600, You are in for not so much fun then.:banghead: Easier to post a link than try to explain. http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/NV5600/mt_11_2.htm There are 5 topics in the top left corner that should give you a good idea of what you are in for. If you have a manual then I really can't offer up any thing more than the link above. You should be able to get it from there. If it was a 4500 it just pulls out the front of the case and is super easy. the 5600 are a pain in the butt all around. Any other questions I would suggest calling Quad4x4 http://quad4x4.com/

You are having the 100% opposite results than I am. I have never had such worthless tires on snow and ice. My Yokahama Geolanders were so bald you could just make out what the tread pattern was visually but mostly smooth and I could get around on snow and ice way better than these things. I hear ya about the slopped out factory receivers. My 02 has holes that are literally egged shaped for the pins that it is always banging when slowing oe accelerating. My 05 isn't too bad yet. I have gotten rid of all my hollow tube receivers and gone to all solid receivers as I kept slopping out the holes in the receivers and I have had several bend in conditions I would not consider abusive.

Whatr was wrong with tho factory receiver hitch? I see you have the same tires I have on my 02. How do you like them? I can say that they suck big time in snow and ice I have 255-85-16 which are tall and skinny. They seem to be wearing ok but are kind of squirlly on pavement in certain conditions. The only thing I have found them good for is dirt roads. But being 10 ply I have them aired to 50 psi which is still way to hard as they don't have any give to them. Overall I would tell everyone to skip this tire for a daily driver. best for off road dirt only. Also I had one set warrantied because they would not balance and these are not much better so I just dicided to live with it and run them out as the tire shop was getting pretty peeved with me over the deal after having them rebalance them and try different things about a dozen times over the course of a month or so.

It is a remote dual filter head with both full flow filter and bypass filter on the same head. There is a manifold that screws onto the factory oil filter stud with both lines going from it to the filter head and back to it. Thats the reason for so much hose.I have it mounted to/under my ranch hand front bumper. about 8 feet of hose and the fact the oil goes thru 4 90* angle fittings on top of it the way I have it all routed.

I would run a synthetic 10w30 diesel oil. In my 02 with the Amsoil dual remote filter head I run 10w30 Amsoil diesel oil. Reason is If I run 15w40 amsoil the oil gets too thick in temps below0*f that it takes I have seen up to 15-30 seconds before it builds oil pressure. The oil has to be pushed through about 8 feet of 1/2 inch hose and it is just too much restriction when its that cold when using 15w40. I have no issues with 10w30. I am going to remove the dual remote filter system and go with a regular full flow and just an add on bypass filter head to avoid this issue so I cn go back to 15w40 year round on that rig.

I didn't realize canada did emissions testing. Just pack up and move to North Dakota, we don't do any testing along with other smart midwest and western states. Plus who wouldn't want to live in a warmer southern climate like ND versus Canada.

I see chipped 12 valves almost every day. Although the chips are in the windshield or the paint.:lmao:

There are dozens of options for the rear end. from add a leafs to spacers different spring packs air bags list goes on for ever just search and find the option you like.

Yep, as I didn't know what year vehicle you had the early 03 had a 47 re and 03.5 and newer have the 48re.

Sounds like you are on the right track. Next would be the in line noise filters and a TIMBO apps. What is the "BW" part your referring to? OH yeah please fill in you sig so we know what year/ description vehicle we are helping you diagnos.

I think you are talking about the difuser on the newer diesels with Diesel particulate filter systems. When it goes through a regen cycle to clean out the DPF the exhaust is super hot and the design pulls in extra air to cool the exiting exhaust gasses for safety reason.

Do yourself a favor and install one of these boxes.http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BORG-800112 You will not believe the difference it will make. I know its more money but is well worth the safety of having a tighter steering system.

We know this but the fellow in post #4 wanted to know what we were talkin about.

I did some looking and they are made in Korea. Most All other bearings are made in china. Wouldn't suprise me if the OEMs were chinese. :rolleyes:For 50 bucks more on rockauto.com you can get all kinds of different brands of bearings but would be no different than these or the bearings that probably come with the spin tec kit are probably chinese too. so where is the gain? 120k+ on my 02 and they have had a bit of play "enough to feel" for about 80k miles and still going. Ok rant over but actually most bearings are made in the far east I see more with japan on them than anywhere else.

Post cout only works in the diesel forum threads not in the other areas so that you only get credit for useful info or pertinant questions. This is exactly the reason they set it up that way. Didn't want people hanging out posting useless stuff and getting forum points for nothing.

Double plus as I see some have lifetime warranty...jump on em.

This is what you want. http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/ I have one I will sell that I never used. I bought it about 5 years ago and wound up replacing the factory shaft with a borgesson and never needed it.

Yeah don't sweat the small stuff. its ok if you need to step on the brake pedal to turn on the high beams or flip the dimmer switch to activate the wipers or push the cig lighter in for window washer fluid you'll figure it all out and learn to live with it. Years ago I worked for a Komatsu equipment dealership and had the misfotune to get a project much like this one. Had to install a cab riser kit on a pc 400 excavator. youve seen them at salvage yards the ones with the cab way up high. well there are many ecms on them and I had to build and route many ecm harnesses to accomodat the cab riser. There are no kits for that every thing was home made about exactly what you are doing now only on a bigger scale.

Its possible but doubtful, if the leak was bad enough to find in the static form you would have found it a long time ago with a black light and it would have been low within a couple days rather than a week. You need to get the low side pressured up into the range of the high side when running as this is the area you most likely will find the leak and static pressure of 70 psi isn't enough to detect it on that slow of a leak. The only way to do it is to empty the freon and pressurize the entire system to a set pressure with air or nitrogen.

The soap method is for an empty system that pumped up with air or nitrogen pressure and not running. Just like putting a tire in a tub looking for an air leak.

Yep thats what the neighbor has in his yard but without a top. and it Looks to be in really great shape too.