Wild and Free

If it was at 240 at the hot line that is way to hot, you should see in the same range as what the engine temp is unless you are sitting in stop and go traffic for long periods ect with it in gear it will get a bit hotter but not that hot, I would keep it under 220. What port are you talking about for the mechanical gauge? The one on the passenger side, servo port? If you saw 180 there and 240 at the hot line is about right but it is getting too hot for some reason, did you recheck the oil level?

P,R,N and 1 forward good enough for ya?

And you thought it was going 2B complicated and hard.

the gasket should be easy to find.

There is nothing to screw up while installing the converter as it is kind of self centering once it is on the shaft. Did you remove the tranny and t-case as 1 unit? If so there are only 6 nuts to remove to seperate them, I highly suggest it before trying the install and it will go a lot easier and be easier to line up.

Think "Lockup" clutch. This makes the converters deeper/thicker than a non lockup converter. John if it is sitting so that it looks like it is almost touching the housing on the inside of the bell housing then it is in all the way. If you noticed the 2 notches on the end of the hub of the converter before you installed it those are the last to engauge and is the pump drive.

That question will get you a wide variance from everyones different setups. My 02 varies greatly depending on the weather and ambient temps alone and can swing it 200 degrees. Average cruising temps are 800-1100 depending on hills head wind ect. at around 55-60 and lugging it in the hills with low boost 10ish or below It will run right at 1200.

If you have the tranny out do it on the ground and it will be much easier. The park rod will be self explanitory once you see how it lays in there. Biggest thing I see and have happen myself is to be careful when installing the VB as the gear selector shaft can roll the seal lip up or push it out so with the tranny on the ground it will be easier to watch and guide it into place preventing seal damage versus underneath and fighting it.

I have worked in a couple of shops with the epoxy coating and it is really tough stuff. It holds up much better than you described. Ususlly if you chip the coating you hit it hard enough to chip the concrete underneath as well. Just be sure to have a barrier if torching or welding over it as slag burns through it and leaves pot marks. Now that I think of it I may have seen the coating you described as it is almost rubber like.

I didn't have my camera handy as I moved an antique upright Grand piano with my 05 today.

Over the years I have found that the APPS calibration affects the issue he described in the first post only it is usually described as stacked shifting which is what mine did, it actualy would up and downshift in and out of od to 3rd multiple times at certain speeds and loads. The wire mod is to cure the tc lock unlock issue which is a problem they all came from the factory with and is an electrical noise issue and are 2 different scenarios/problems. I post this to kill 2 birds at 1 time. Most people are either so used to the tc lock unlock problem that they drive around it by adjusting the speed as you usually know at exactly what speed it does it so drive a couple mph faster or slower to avoid it, or they just don't realize it is a problem until they actually fix it while chasing other electrical issues. But when it does the stacked shifting you know you have a definate issue.

Recalibrate the APPS and do the suncoast ground wire mod. Directions for both are on this site if you look.

I would definately be plugging the hole if it sits outside at all. It would amaze you at what little critters can find to get into and haul their food and chew toys into places to leave. would hate for you to have a squirl or mouse nest built on top of the grid heater in the intake. Little suckers can build a 5 star Hyat in a matter of hours I swear.

I think you answered your own question. The early CR engines had a high pump and injector failure rate due to coming with 10 micron filters that have since been changed over to 7 micron.

You need a digital scale and a vacuum pump is an absolute 100 % must have if you are going to do AC work. Also invest in an AC O-ring kit and a sniffer also comes in very handy.

Generally shock loading will cause that to happen either on hard launches or harsh down shifts with a load or trailer ect. That one isn't too bad, I have seen many with the hub completely torn from the clutch lining section.

From what I have read they are a direct replacement part other than needing the borgenson shaft with it.

No I am running the 3.3 turn saginaw box from the GM application. I bought it about 2 years ago. I already had a Borgeson shaft for quite a few years already so that wouldn't have been an issue. The reason I recommend it is because the supply of saginaw boxes is running thin and if you did need to replace it in the future your chances of finding another are getting slimmer all the time. so by going with the ones Genos sells you will have something to replace it with again. No wander anymore since I went with the 3.3 turn box. It is the best upgrade I have done to the steering. Faster ratio means less input to keep corrected at all times.

You will not get that much paly out of it with the adjustment. The best way to tell if you are not too tight is make sure you can still push the pitman arm shaft in and out of the gear box enough to notice play. otherwise it will be bound up and will lock up when steering it. Once the play is that excessive you are best to get a different box. I highly recomend this one. http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BORG-800112 As for the 3rd gen conversion, it has been done but there is an adapter plate and new hole to drill and different pitman arm configuration and all around lot of time and money involved. There was a company that made a kit but it was short lived and went out of business.

I ran one of these for a few years and it worked great. It was originaslly designed for diesel marine engines where they needed to keep engine bays clean and control or eliminate water contamination as well. There is a lot of info on the site and worth a look and read. http://www.walkerairsep.com/product_detail.asp?id=439

I think they are way to paranoid. I run 50/50 with antigel fuel conditioner at temps that low every year and have never in 25 years of driving a diesel have never Gelled up. As for straight #1 I would never worry about it gelling up at -30. But I would never run straight #1 ever anyhow unless someone else is buying my parts.

There are 2 alignment dowels in the bell housing to align it so you have nothing to worry about when you go in with it. You can get super freaky technical and do a flywheel hsg /rearcover alignment procedure and do a radial runout of the flywheel housing and then install adjustment dowels to get it aligned to nearly perfect if you so choose. Although this is more critical with a manual tranny and clutch.

Running water? Only if its down hill Mail? Delivered once a week by Pony Express Toilet? Dug by hand Phone? ----...---...--.--...----...--......-

Yeah I forgot to mention that some times the repeated key on thing works also. But when I try it and it does come on is when I find that I still get no response out of it until it warms up even though it turned on.

I haven't played with mine like that but I know they went back to the old original programming to eliminate that particular issue which the comp I have was the new comp with the old program so That should have been resolved with my version. The only bug mine has is that it will not turn on in cold temps around 30 and lower and if it does turn on it sends no power to the pump until the comp unit warms up inside. There are Many threads on many forums stating this issue and I have sent mine in several times and they have gone back to old programming and they have not fixed the problem as they claim they do not know of it and can never recreate the issue. They have even gone to the forums and read the threads as I was in contact with the tech department for about a year so they knew exactly what the issue was and that is exists widely only to call them back and have them deny any knowlege of this issue. A side note is that only the units with the HOT unlock have the cold weather issue.