Hawkez

I have had no issues with my fuel boss. I have my stock lift pump still hooked up and it is only used to prime the system. I do carry a spare belt under the back seat. When I bought mine, Richard at GDP said he has 100K+ miles on a belt. I've never heard of one failing, but I assume there are stories out there. My pressure is solid at 17PSI. It doesn't go up or down much at all from that.

There is always the mechanical option. I have the fuel boss and it has been problem-free since the day I installed it.

I am pretty sure that you can rent a smarty from DAP for not too much money.

Have you ever pulled the radiator to see how dirty it is? They are simple to pull and if you haven't rerouted your CCV it is more than likely covered in grime and dirt which would not allow air to pass through the fins and cool. I had this issue with mine. I pulled it and soaked it in degreaser and used a pressure washer to clean it. It was simple and my truck stays cool now. Is it losing fluid?

I would start talking to banks. The last time I took out an auto loan I went to the local bank to see what they had to offer.

That's the $Million question. Before settling on the ECM, you need to verify that your VP44 is good or bad. When you hot wire the VP44, that will take the ECM out of the equation. Meaning, if it started and idled fine when the IP is hot wired, that would tell you that your VP44 is good and you have a problem elsewhere (ecm/wiring). If it doesn't start or idle with the IP hot wired then you are most likely looking at a bad VP44. Your not going to damage the VP44 by hot wiring it, as long as you hook it up correctly. If you can get it to start hot wired you will not have any throttle control, it will only idle. Also, to shut the motor off you will have to remove the power from the VP44, your ignition switch will do nothing. More than likely, if you don't have codes it probably isn't your ECM. What are you using to measure fuel pressure? Are you certain it isn't a clogged or dirty filter? Water in your fuel? Is your engine able to breathe?

If the VP44 was truly hot wired and still wouldn't start or run that takes the ECM out of the equation...but I believe that by unplugging the IP it will throw an CEL and a code.

What was your pressure before installing the AirDog?

Was your old radiator leaking? I had issues with my truck overheating several years ago. I removed the radiator, soaked it degreaser and hit it with a pressure washer and it was like you said after I re-installed it...night and day difference. Your old radiator is pretty dirty, have you done anything to re-route the crank case breather? If you haven't, your new radiator will eventually look like the old one.

Any idea on what your fuel pressure coming from your Lift Pump is? Your fuel filter may need to be changed. What mods have you done to your truck? Why did the IP get changed? Was this miss happening before the swap?

I have always used the jack handle from my floor jack as a breaker bar. It fits right over my ratchet handle. This is what I used to do mine.

Are you sure it isn't coolant making its way into your oil?

When I was ordering mine I called DAP and they tried to push me to a HO pump, but I was certain that my engine was an HO. I went against their recommendation and ordered the SO pump and sure enough that there was an SO VP44 installed. I was worried I would bet stuck with the wrong pump and that I would eat the core charge. I went out the data plate on the timing case. If @portlandareae28 filled out his signature we could better steer him in the correct direction.

Be careful, the early 2nd gens with a 6 speed also had a SO pump. I replaced my VP44 last year and it had an SO pump.

I guess for those that have more money than they know what to do with it.

How about this mod, never get stuck again? http://www.ksl.com/classifieds/listing/39110993

Does it happen at idle as well? I can't imagine the grid heaters would do that as you accelerating down the road. Have your verified your gauge is correct?

Not a concern? I guess I don't have any expectation that the ECM is going to last forever. Just like you lost your ABS module before catching a failing alternator, seems to me that the same could happen with the ECM. It is a man-made electronic component and eventually it will fail. I understand that there are things that can speed that failure up and we can do things to "prevent", but nothing last forever.

This sucks that you are having this much trouble. It is always a fear in the back of my mind that my ECM is going to fail and I will be in the same boat as others, trying to find an ECM. I hope that you get this taken care of and that the company works with you on this.

Have you checked for codes?

How are you checking for codes? Does your code clear? Does this happen when you park uphill, downhill or is it level? Could this be air getting into the fuel system, and have you tried cracking open injector lines to see if this helps it start? If your ECM were going you would probably see a slew of other issues and fault codes. Does your WTS light come on? What mods have you done to the truck? Tuners? Lift pump?

why not just take it in and have it tested?

Sorry to hear your troubles. It seems that you've had a tough/expensive go with your truck lately. Is it recommended to replace both sides at the same time?

I just replaced the contacts in my starter. With 120K on the odometer the contacts were worn through. I bought the kit from LarryB's and I bought a set of replacement brushes as well. The brushes in the starter looked great so I opted not to change those. The contacts were super easy and I am hoping for another 100k out of the starter.

What size is the TORX bit to pull that cover? I replaced my VP44 last year and have yet to put the stealth cover back on. I would like to, but I lost the TORX bit that came with the plate. I need to go out and procure one, I understand that the pumps come with the TORX heads that have the "security" piece in the center.