Hawkez

I would pull the codes via an actual code reader and not rely on the key trick.

Why do you want black smoke? Your fuel pressure is driving too low. 14 psi is the minimum you should have anything below that is potentially damaging the IP. Correcting your fuel pressure will not lead to black smoke.

Seems like a lot of effort to reinvent the wheel. the PVC idea works great, easy to find, cheap to buy and so many different fitting and options that you can do almost anything you need.

Look at the pictures in this article.

Get rid of the puke bottle, that will only lead to overheating as it will plug up your radiator overtime. If you still have the puke bottle, chances are your radiator needs to be removed and cleaned as well.

post the video to you tube and the give the link here.

Before putting your old one back in, open it up and look at the contacts.

That is how my started sounded when it quit on me. The contacts in my starter were shot. I kept thinking it was something else. As soon as i would turn the key I would hear the click and then nothing. There was nothing consistent about when it would fail. Sometimes it would do it and other times it wouldn't. One time when it wouldn't start I had someone tap on the starter with a hammer while I held the key and it would finally turn over.

Did it sit all that time without being ran/started? Maybe verify the fuel isn't nasty and that the filter is in good condition. Wouldn't be a bad idea to check that you don't have any engine codes.

Could you modify a garden tiller? Many of the have reverse and that wouldn't go too fast.

I have Isspro EV2 gauges. They are programmable. I haven't had any issues with mine.

I don't know if I'd worry about it being a 53 Block. I think any 53 block with some miles on it has been tried and tested and had it cracked it would have by now. Mine is a 53 block, 130K miles, and I don't worry about it at all.

The only thing that I ever use my overhead display for is temperature, and even then in the winter when I have winter fronts on it isn't very accurate. I've never paid attention to the other functions to see if they act the same as yours. The connection inside there is easy to access, maybe pull it down and check the connection.

One of my rear speakers quit, the wire that runs from the body into the door was broke. Open the rear door, pull back the rubber boot and look for a break. With as much flex and the age it will get brittle and break.

It isn't a traditional bulb. It is a LED that is soldered to the board. You will have to unsolder the inop LED and install a new one.

I have had my guns in a safe for A LOT of years and I haven't see any of them begin to rot. I don't know if it has dry wall as fire protection in it, but that is the first I've hear of that claim.

I've had one for almost 10 years. I am at the point where I need a second. At the time I bought the biggest that I could afford and I am at capacity. I have a manual dial, I wish I had something easier for my wife to remember. She doesn't get into it often and wouldn't be able to if she had to get a gun out. I've looked at some of those monster safes and I would prefer 2 of the safes that I have vs 1 giant one. Mine weighs 550lb. 3-4 guys can move it. It fits through standard doors, up/down stairs. I can't imagine moving some of those huge safes!!! If you are never going to move houses that may not be an issue, but I don't plan to be in my current home for the rest of my life. In the next couple of years I will have to buy another safe as my oldest boy has now accumulated a few guns of his own.

That looks awesome.

Galvanized fitting can and will still corrode. Galvanized would work, but I would hold out for a brass fitting. I've seen cheap galvanized fittings that easily chips away, I would hate to see any debris from a bad fitting make its way into your engine.

Are you going to paint it or powder coat it?

I've bought from here before. https://www.aspwholesale.com/

I bought brushes from my alternator last year. In the Denso they are soldered on, and the lead to the brushes is pretty heavy gauge. My solder iron would do the trick. I replaced the bearings on mine and they just tapped out and back in. I used a socket and there was nothing to it. I am not talking about beating them out, just light tapping. Worked great for me.

You ought to look at getting a live data tool to see what your APPS is doing, it may be able to show you other codes that you can't read with the key trick. Here is a link to the P0122.

Keep it simple. Put a shelf above the sink for a 5 gallon water jug. The water supply could be gravity fed and you wouldn't need a pump.

I have had TOYO Open Country's on my truck for 30K and haven't had any issues. YET