dracozny

separate bulbs for high beams, clear lenses, much much better reflectors.

generally the thought is the dash will continue to crumble underneath the cap. the question that is unanswered however will be what will the eventual outcome be with the structural integrity of the dash..

i looked at my steering wheel and the holes are tapered and fairly large, i cant figure out how you managed to get anything stuck in it let alone the keys

you replace the starter when you can no longer rebuild the motor itself, worn out commutator mainly, brushes can be replaced and even the commutator can be trued up easily enough on a lathe. if the motor shorts out and burns up in the process well then you got grounds to replace it, be easier than rewiring at that point.

there not expensive, you can get them at any auto store.

all you can do is use a test gauge to verify your pressures, I didnt have a test port on my filter so I had to add one, every filter change I check my psi of the glowshift against the test gauge.

Never wire anything directly to the battery terminals. I find its more pain than its worth as a convenience.

I found all that stuff at schucks/orieleys. bin of mixed fittings back by the end of the counter, and the tubing is right there with the copper fuel line stuff. --- Update to the previous post... never seen that one though

could always send the exhaust brake back and swap to the HE351 which comes with one....... geeze I wish I could lol.

problem is the size of the projectors in comparison to the size of the various headlights. right now I am just looking purely at depth and width of projectors in relation to the sheet metal of the stock location. the projectors are spaced at the absolute minimum, literally less than a 16th of an inch apart so that the outside projectors bixenon shield can still move freely. right now I am building framing out of aluminum which will use the stock mounting points and then I can work out how to mount the projectors to that.

your one lucky SOB, nice find

judging by the estimated price, if you wanted to install an exhaust brake, doing this would be a worthwhile upgrade as it doesn't look to be much more expensive.

I think i'm gonna have to cut off the bottom mounting tab on the inside projector. if it moves too much I can always use the auto leveler tab that sticks straight back as a reenforcement point. that would give me slightly more clearance room for the outside projectors bulb and connector.

yes but it rules out the third gen swap which is what he was wanting

stock dashes are luck of the draw, avoiding excessive sunlight and not using armorall seems to be the only things keeping the stock dashes from cracking.

2000, and no they will not mate up . if you want to do the swap you will have to swap the entire axle. and just for kicks.... if you want to do the rears there is a very expensive kit to do a disk conversion I think it runs about $900 or again swap the axle and a few other parts. Ive been tempted to do this myself. perhaps when i got more cash laying around....

from what I know of aftermarket alarm systems is they tie in to the CTC module which is hiding under the dash near the center if I remember right.

I am molding my own out of polycarbonate, i have some molds made already although they are a bit rough. I have a vacuum table built, i just need to get the plastic holding frame done and I can vacuum form all the parts. essentially the entire assembly will be vacuum formed out of ABS.

http://www.autobodyfillersusa.com/servlet/Detail?no=115 i wonder if genos is sourcing from the same place as these guys