Me78569

@Dodgeih has some great stuff to say about Contagious injectors sarcasm of course.

yea once you pass 3100 rpm ecm fueling drops off the face of the earth. The hard fuel routine looks at tps input vs rpm over 3100 then adds fuel like a coked up ape. Works well when the tune is above %100 lol.

Spotted a "bug" kinda. Since your tune is %100 under oem duration when you hit 3100 hard fuel kicks in to keep canbus high as oem duration falls off. I wasn't expecting a tune like this to happen so I didn't consider it. I will have a fix sometime tomorow.

Was it an auto or 5 speed trans?

So if I look at the datalogs I see that at 3000 rpm and %70 throttle you are sitting at a canbus message of ~800. This means your are in your light throttle timing area of the map. Try setting light throttle timing to 0* or dropping light throttle limit to ~%15 Any White smoke out the tail pipe when this bucking happens?

What tune are you running again?

Does RPM matter?

Do you have the raw data I can look at?

Datalog will really help

I wouldn't if I was you, but plenty of guys run a endge on 5 x5 or a smarty on sw9 without issues. Some do have issues. If you dont want to run the risk then you will just have to live with it like it is until you get more fuel and studs.

leave pump low boost scale at 0 psi, thats the psi where wiretap will start. I would set all canbus variables to %150. try that. unless you get bigger injectors you are going to need to drive duration REALLY hard.

I ran a test yesterday comparing my daily tune to a stupidly aggressive tune set at %150 duration from 0 psi to 30 psi. I wanted to know if there was a significant difference in power between a clean tune and an overfueled tune. You can see the huge amount of fuel down low. However most everything else follows each other. Both reach 60 mph at pretty much the same time, both have about the same egt's and both build and hold boost exactly the same. The overfueled tune did feel more responsive when not at WOT, but that was simply because I didn't have to push the pedal down as far to get the same seat of the pants results.

You just don't have the fuel to spin that turbo. Throw more canbus fuel at it, but I dunno if you can push it hard enough to work.

still running stock injectors? i am assuming a 67 mm intake he351cw?

Dap sells Bosch body as well

They are used but clean. Easy to see via discoloration on the tip. Good to know on flow. We will see what I find

yep it is, sorry I wasn't clear are these the same physical injectors as the 330 bar setup, just repopped to 350(per the sticker)? I hope they are because that allows me to compare pop without possible minor difference in the nozzle.

guess I need to get busy @dieselautopower Can you comfirm that these injectors are the same nozzles as I was running before at 330 bar? IE your guys just repopped what I sent back at 350 bar.

I gotta say those dyna beads work really well for balancing. 8 oz in all tires and the truck is as smooth as it can be at 70 mph no mounted wheel weights.

The beta tunes have more preboost. However I suggest going with injectors before upping the tune aggressiveness. Us 24v guys only have so much duration before the "limit" is reached.

The xzt tunes are in the downloads section.

Governor solenoid and transducer

Lotta work to rewrite it all. Issue is you need less fuel at 1200 rpm than 750 rpm. So if add fueling via loop it will ramp out of control. Use the high idle switch. What I do is set the turbo timer to 400* then just key off and let oem high idle kick on.

That's the trade off. I lower allowed max fuel and it does what you see now. If I up the max then it spikes.

At this point if I go further I need a $4000 trans update