Me78569

Cowboy, Here is a short and dirty video of the spool with the turbo. I think it was %35 throttle from a slow roll. I get onto the throttle at about the 8 second mark. The lower screen shows boost at 7000' so you have to minus about 4 or 5 from the number to get the true boost. I am currently fixing the code to adjust boost using idle psi.

Winter hit all of the sudden.

Well I am very happy to say that my eyeball and tape measure alighnment has fixed by pulling issue and my tire wear issue. Ball joint us still needing to be replaced but at least I won't burn through my tires on the way home.

I was hoping we could see them tonight at my mom's but it was cloudy.

The turbo does have a plug in it that could allow you to pour something in. I figured that is what it was for, but never knew for sure. Spent along time chasing shaft speed issues on my controller and it was due to a bad soldier joint.

What gear do you want spool numbers for? Lol 2nd without lockup I struggle to keep rpms lower than 1600 so it is hard to know, but boost by 1600 is well into 20's if I am on it. 3rd gear 10 psi by 1400 pretty effortlessly. I am sure I could have that lower, but I don't like driving the turbo that hard. If I set the curve lower I am sure that rpm would be lower as the vgt likes more drive pressure, but I don't drive the turbo that hard. 4th again I rarely get on the go fast pedal below 1600 rpm, but locked up at 1400 pedal down it climbs above 10 psi without any issues. Remember this is all at 7000' haha. I am at sea level for christmas, maybe I will get a video for you. I can tell you that the torque curve is much flatter and fatter with the he351 vs the hx35.

Cowboy, I think it's time you jump back on the vgt bandwagon, talk about cake and eating it....

You would measure from the rim not the tire.

Guy on craigslist sells blem deka batteries, I got 2 group 31's for 100 and change.

Talking with my step father he suggested a good way to do an alighnment. Use something that extends and locks to measure the distance at the front of the rim and mover to the back and compare. Something like an extendo handle for a paint roller would work well, heck even an adjustable shower curtain pole might work ok in a pinch.

Provided no codes and not driving issues don't worry. What exactly does fp do?

I wouldn't be too worried. Are you running 2 stroke? Any codes? Are your grids cycling on and off? Do you have a pressure isolator on the fp gauge?

Alright, Well the passenger front was about 1' closer to the rear wheel than the drivers....just like I told the alignment shop. It was toe'd out about 5/8". I took it in to about 1/8" +- to neutral. Thing i s driving a lot better now. I can only assume it won't eat through the tires as bad now. Still curious why the outside of the the tire was wearing vs in the inside, but oh well. Thanks buzzer for your measurement, help at least me figure out a good place to start.

No I noticed the issues about 1000 miles from home, Fargo ND. I went in explained my issue and they gave me that run around.

I don't think we have a fully functioning classifieds section yet, was one of the issues with the update that we did, but the section was dead so we didn't worry much.

Mine stumbles and kicks out of 3 cyl mode pretty much everytime it is triggered.

Thanks for the measurement. I tried to take my truck into a front end shop for them to give me a dirty alignment, but they poked until they found something off and refused to align it. Yes I know the ball joint has 2* of movement, but that is not what is causing my tire wear......they tried to tell me that caster adjustment wasn't possible, then I pointed them to my adjustable control arms and they just said "well that won't wear tires" Then I pointed out the wear was on the outside of the tire, and that ball joint caused tire wear results in the inner of the tire being worn. anyways enough of a rant, I just hate hate hate dealing with alignment shops, I don't think any alignment shop has ever actually done and alignment.

Yep that's what I am looking for.

Yea no worries tomorrow will be fine. That'll be a huge help. Thanks! Hopefully you understand what I am asking for haha.

Sitting right at 0 now. Was about -7 this morning. Trucks gonna be unhappy when I go to start it.

Anyone have a 98---00 truck with the t steering? I need to do a nitty gritty alighnment and could use the measurement from a good truck. Can anyone measure the distance between the hubs from the knuckle joint shalf to knuckle joint shaft on the tie rods?

If he has anything good to say about ball joints let me know. 500 is too much for ball joints, just can't imagine spending that, let alone 1000.

My truck is an 00 but the front axle is a 98. Talk about fun sourcing the right parts Don't know if the front was hit or what.

I used the Denny drive shaft dana joints. http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p2078_dana_spicer_707469x_ball_joint_set_for_1994_to_1998_12_dodge.html

Well half way through my trip up north I have found that my Balls joints are loose again. The moogs lasted 20K The Danas lasted about 15k Not really sure what to do. I would love to just get something that lasted from the factory, but I dunno. Thoughts on what to try? Should I do the dana ones again?