Me78569

Little update, Since I have redone the wire/[plug for the shaft speed sensor I am happy to report that my upper end shaft speeds are much more stable. I am not struggling to push the turbo faster than 115,000. With the latest shaft speed code ( I did update it) uses the unactive pot position to define the curve. I know I posted the code example before, but in short the higher the pot value the more the turbo opens up based upon shaft speed. I should be pushing 35-40psi safely and within the map without much issue. I think 16cm is going to be where my curve ends. I should also be able to turn up the fuel some in the Quadzilla.

Mine still cycle in MPG mode. I don't get the WTS light or the first cycle, but beyond that they cycle. I think the battery temp sensor and ECT sensor play a role in some of the years of truck.

haha sounds good to me.

I am wanting to move to Western Montana in the Libby area. I need less people, more snow, and land.

Got about 1-2" last night. Looking at the forecast for my mothers for Christmas and it looks like it is going to be hovering right around freezing.......terrible news. I need to figure out if my wife can handle -20 or -30 before I move her up north. I would imagine a cold women would be about as happy as a wet cat hahah

When you gonna give me a ride?

Never hunted big cats, A big cat decided to invade our Elk honey hole this year...we might have to get your crew down to help. Not many things in the woods get me on edge, but mountain lions sure do.

EGT's in 3cylinder mode really don't climb high unless you have a Exhaust brake. I have seen 400*f idle without EB and 1000*f with EB. egt's will depend greatly on many things though.

Well the new shaft speed sensor did not fix it, but I did fix the issue. the solder joint in the harness was just not good enough, I cut it out and rewired the plug to the shaft speed sensor. Issue is now fixed. Gonna be nice to have my low end back again.

I had to bend my dipstick to get the crank sensor out. Once i did that it came out pretty easy.

yea, when my crank sensor went the truck wouldn't run so I am assuming that the truck needs both for some reason?

Not yet. I should get the new one tomorrow or tuesday. I hope that fixes it lol

It seems to spool better if I jump to 5cm right at the first tps input, (offidle varible) then open up to 9cm pretty quickly. If you hold the housing small more than a slight second smoke output comes up.

Bad crank sesor would absolutely cause this issue.

Please let us know, We have record of the strange behavior so we will be able to pick up the issue if it does happen a month from now. Thanks For your service, we will take care of your issue if it continues to be a problem.

Regardless we will fix the issue, the switch has a 1 year warranty. Can you pull the switch out and just verify %100 that it hasn't rotated. Do you get any codes in any position? So on the first click you get ECT that drops off? second click you get 3 Cylinder? 3rd click does what? How long did you leave the truck off for between trying another mode? my ECM seems to remember the last mode selected for 10-15 seconds after the power is turned off to the truck. I have a switch here that is fully tested so I can get it out to you ASAP, but I will need the old switch back to troubleshoot the issue and make sure we understand the issue incase we run into it again.

6 cyl shuts off the ect. Can you pull the switch and verify that it hasn't turned some? Do you have a live data tool?

Can you verify that the switch isn't turning behind the dash? Sounds like the lock nut isn't tight and the switch is one step clockwise vs the sticker.

That sounds like a good plan, but if there was no code before and now you have one, either the pump is bad or a wire got damaged when you did the r&r

Did the exact same thing with governor solenoids in the trans. I spent months looking for an issue that was due to my bad "new" solenoids.

with what you said then I am almost betting your "new" vp44 isn't working. If it is under warranty still I would insist they replace it since you have replaced everything else. If it isn't under warranty call DAP and pony up for a new pump through him.

if you clear codes and try to crank again do the codes come back? I am gonna say you have a bad vp44 form throughbreed.

oh yea, forgot about that part. ( I dont deal with that.)

from what I can see the bolts are the same for 94-11

Good thing you are moving back to CO. The car is considered private property and the make my day law applies