Me78569

umm, what locktite number? Some of the red stuff is WAY to tough for what you want haha.

cinch the pump and keep going. My key was no worse for wear when this happened to me.

does the first gen area give you a error? As for the trans no idea.

So once the snow falls there does it tend to stay on the ground for the rest of the winter?

Another one worth the read from a SR71 pilot http://sploid.gizmodo.com/5511236/the-thrill-of-flying-the-sr-71-blackbird

To me good wide bright lights are worth the cost. Look at the rest of my truck and you can see how much I value good lights hahahaha.

So they are specific low beams or just able to be aimed low like the old school lights? not knocking output.

That setup works great for where you live but it doesnt fit he needs of the city/ semi rural colorado. To many people to much traffic. You couldn't drive around with those light on and expect to not get pulled over. Even in the country here there is enough traffic that you couldn't really use them, and once again you are left with the oem lights. At least they look like flood style light without cut offs or a good wah to aim them.

http://m.caranddriver.com/features/instruments-of-war-feature I have a couple more worth reading I will add in the morning.

After having cars with xenons bulbs I couldn't go back to halogens lol. Dripley, understand completely. Good enough is good enough most of the time, but I got spooled.

The projector kit is $270 ., You can piece it together using "B" stock items for $200ish or less, but honestly I would just pony up. https://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/universal-kits/bi-xenon-morimoto-mini-stage-3-kit-h1.html#.Vk0YzvmrSHs select the 9004 kit and it is plug and play in regards to electronics. Well I did a little more aiming tonight, got it good enough. You can see on the left light, upper cut off how it tapers off before it hits the other cutoff, that is due tothe fluted lenses. The Left side of the left light has a nice flat cutoff which is where the hole is that I cut out of the oem lenses. So some more light is to be had with fully clear lenses, but eh,.... Keep in mind the ground isn't level where the truck is sitting, but it is close enough to give you an idea of output. I can prob go up another couple inches, but I like to error on the side of not blinding people. I will get some new housings sometime in the future that aren't worn out and get them dialed in better, but for now they are 10x better than the stock bulbs.

Reminds me of FYI if you hit enter after the youtube url it will embed.

Sleezy, good to chat with you. I wanted to put what we talked about down so I remember what was said and so forth. My memory can be similar to a gold fish haha. So the switch is showing over 200*f on the intake air temp regardless of the position the switch is in. As it was working before the extra length of harness was added I am going to have to assume the issue is in the harness as the position of the switch doesn't effect the IAT reading. My guess is that there is a short in the blue to white or blue to bare or bare to white wires ( my guess would be blue and white wires) I would unplug everything and test for continuity across those 3 wires. They should not make any sort of circuit. As we talked about on the phone I would be looking at any melted shielding that may have happened in the wires when you soldiered them. the cat5e would transfer heat VERY rapidly when using a soldering iron that could lead to the wire casing melting. I would cut everything fresh and get the molex connectors I posted earlier, that should help ensure there are no shorts in the junction while ensuring a good tight connection. Let me know what you find and we will go from there.

Are you inferring I am canadian? I know lots of rumors revolve around if I am canadian or not, but I promise I am in fact American! Doesn't matter how close I lived to the border I do like booze and food though...

It very could be that the 13*f resistor got bumped / knocked on the switch. I am not claiming to be %100 perfect on my soldiering, but I did test each unit lololol. Anyways call me tonight once you get to troubleshooting.

I am assuming you had a check engine light too? yea pull it down and retest in each mode. In theory temps should be at MPG mode: IAT 143*f ECT engine temp 6 cyl mode: IAT 23*f ect 123*f 3cyl mode: Iat 13*f ect Engine temp. Anyways I doubt it is in the harness, 112*f means the ecm is seeing 5v on the IAT signal wire when in the 3 cy mode. I would check the bare wire VERY carefully for a short to the back of the switch.

Well wait ( sorry thinking) Humm does IAT temp stay stable on the rest of the settings? All IAT reads travel across the same wires, so I would expect to see the issue on all settings not just one. If it does then I think there is some sort of issue in the switch. How much back spacing is behind the switch? Does it read funky if you have the switch hanging up there rather than put in place in the overhead? This might happen if the board was shorting out due to back spacing where you have it mounted.

Yes 123*f to enable infinite 6 cyl high idle time. 3cyl will kick out once the ecm see's that coolant is up to temp. Use a multimeter to check resistance in the cat5 you have. It should read very close to 0.

we should be best friends

I have a crush on them hahaha.

3 cyl mode doesn't fool water temp just air. Air temp should read 13*F Resolder the IAT wires, blue white and bare. I am guessing you have a bad solder joint / connection the extra wire is not throwing it off that much, Intake temp for MPG mode is 143*f by design so your cable added 2*f.

Yep, since you are not reflecting light off of it anymore it is fair game, but CSM take note...... If I ever catch you with a flat billed flat that matches the color of the housing you have in your truck I am gonna be unhappy....

Yep, The only thing we you need to make sure the housings are adjustable so you can aim the lights.

Did you see the stuff on the toolbox? only reason we camp is because our house is full of stuff.