Me78569

It's their swiss "bank account" hahaha.,

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/universal-kits/bi-xenon-morimoto-mini-stage-3-kit-h1.html#.VkvFePmrTs0 Clear none fluted lenses are a must as I found out haha. that is what I always recommend, get the 4300k bubs for the purest white light. For the cost you will not have better output. I think I have an idea on how to make the high's work right with my setup, but I am pretty sure you can get the above in 9004 style plugs so it is plug and play. Alright, Even with my ghetto sealed light with a rubbermaid lens here is the output from 1, yes one of the lights It's not aimed, but the light is wider than my camera can take a picture of at about 15-20 yards.

that is how smarty gets away with producing their delete stuff. I don't know how the structure is for the company, but it isn't a knock off.

I have a pair of generic crimps for delphi plugs, and they seem to work well for about any style pin I have used so far.

Edge defueling? Something fuel wise to give the same effect as lifting off the throttle.

ill get some pictures tonight for you. Last night was not as impressive as I would like due to the oem lenses distorting the output.

sure sounds like bark, I am gonna guess some sort of fueling issue? did the truck buck at all?

So what does one do if the lenses on the OEM housing is fluted causing the light to scatter?... .. . . .. Drill out a 60mm hole in front of the projectors, then You make your own lenses out of a rubbermade container. should work until I get around to getting some clear housings.

I would suggest you go over the lilbb.com and look at the thread "through hole fun" compare your board to his eagle file and verify all is well. I will look into mine and compare also.

Fass 100 or 150 whatever the budget will allow for. I have a VERY bad taste from airdog stuff.

Boost leaks will cause EGT issues, MPGS and performance, the truck is working x amount to spin the turbo and x amount to move, but the boost is going to waste, so more fuel = more EGT's = less MPGS for the same amount of power to the ground.

that's fine. Yes your raptor has bit the dust. It is a good thing you got it pulled off the ECM power. If you try to keep running the pump I would expect issues with wires burning up. your issue is that the seals inside the raptor have failed ( like they are known for, I went through 5 pumps in 1.5 years) this is causing the pump to draw a buttload of amps trying to keep up.

do you have pressure before it blows a fuse? What wires do you have doing to what pins on the relay? 30 should be fused from battery, 87 should go to the airdog pos 86 should come from ecm positive leave 85 ground or negative lead from ecm

Update 10/15/15! The Mopar1973man.com Cummins High idle switches are for sale again in the Forum store http://forum.mopar1973man.com/store/product/41-mopar1973man-high-idle-switch/ The Mopar1973man.com Cummins High Idle Kits are no longer sold through DAP.

OP, if it makes you feel better lolol, the tree's were about as solid as the mailbox post I am sure..... Winter camping adventure, woke up to 6" on the ground and we were camping down this long narrow path.

haha, Yea my days of that are over too, I am actively looking for a popup camper for the bed of the truck. anyways, enough of the thread hijack.

Yes, I cannot stress enough how much better the light is, not just in throw, but in clarity and the wide beam that you can see in the ditches without your brights on. As for Hacking, you actually dont have to cut ANYTHING, one small hole is required for the "high beam" sheild drop, but the projector literally fits into the OEM hole perfect. I will take pictures tonight of the output, I need to remove the flutes in the OEM lense as they scatter the light. Also you will like this mike, I cut up the OEM bulb so I could use the OEM plug, What you are looking at is where the bulb sits in a 9004 bulb, So it literally plugs in. I need to figure out the high beam relay setup I will need, but honestly you don't need high beams.......

Anything can be a camper provided there is a tarp and a pickup bed ......and dead batteries in the morning at -15*f lolololol

When I first learned to drive ( 10ish ) my mother took me out in a large gravel pit in the middle of winter in north minnesota and just let me go. Told me to go over there, or over there. Point being it is worth it's weight in gold to be able to think straight when you are sideways. I couldn't agree more mike, you need to know how your cars handle when they are sliding. Some cars are nose heavy and others are tail heavy. The nice thing about physics is the rules don't change, it is gonna slide in the same way each time. If you hop in someone elses car you are throwing that to the wind. anyways OP, it happens. Now if I could only find a place that johnny law wouldn't mind me doing some research!

Even the smallest boost leaks add up. Doesn't take as much as you would think.

Yea it happens, I remember the first thing I drove an auto in the snow, I didn't even know how to drive an auto until 5 years after I got my lic, anyways I came to a stop...well tried to come to a stop and the car just pushed right through the intersection. Thankfully it was late and no one was out. all that happened was a curb won and I got to pay for a new radiator. Wasn't going fast, but the thing wouldn't stop and I couldn't figure out why in the split second before it was too late haha. Are new auto's smart enough to pop it into N when sliding happens?

forgot that I disabled the code that overrides the active pot value when TPS input is above %25 ......drove a mile ( slowly due to snow) with the EB on lololol, I was wondering why it was soo slow.

I would jump for the revmax 3.5 personally. Other than that i think you are in good shape.

18-24 gauge wire should work. I like 18 myself.

Just use a standard auto rely, same as what you have under the hood. Not sure on the fuse, I don't remember what my pump has.