Me78569

I would trace the wires coming out of the raptor, then check power at that plug, while idling, to verify that you have 14v. For any large amp draw ( raptor pump) you should use a relay, a relay is pretty much an automatic switch, the ecm would trigger the switch ( by the 12v power it currently does), but the power is draw from the battery directly for the lift pump.

Your raptor is just plugged into the OEM plug on the side of the block right? Have you checked for power at the raptor itself? The raptor pump is known for leaking, shorting, and dying. So if you haven't checked for power at the pump I would do that first. Here are all the ecm wiring diagrams http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/87-dodge-ram-turbo-cummins-24-valve-engine-wiring Looks like pins on the ecm 35 & 15 However I am gonna say you really need to put the pump on a relay, run the power lead from the ecm into pin 86 on a relay, pin 87 goes to lift pump, pin 30 to battery, ping 85 to ground. issue with just plugging hte pump into the oem plug is if there is any spike in draw fro the lift pump, you can burn up the ecm. You really shouldn't put that much draw on the ecm.

Yep, That's it. So far it has worked very well and as a result we( donating memebers) don't have to worry about losing access to important files. Huge thanks to jigabop for putting his thing together, but we can't expect that to be up forever. your account has been updated for silver membership thanks to your donation! Please let me know if you have any issues getting that donation file. It is a large file so sometimes the internet cuts out or something.

In order to pay for the large amount of bandwidth needed to host files we require that you be a donating member ( $10 per 6 months min) to access the download section. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973man-com-site-information/432-downloading-policy http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973man-com-site-information/101-donations Issue is that the site has 80,000 + visitors each month, if even 100 of those downloaded the quadzilla file the server will be over the monthly bandwidth for the current price and we would have to pay a fee.

that's the hope haha.

Mopar1973man.com dyno day..... I am guessing with the 100's I only have enough fuel to get to 450ish.....humm

Yea I have often thought about that. owner crying? humm

I think all is fair on the dyno haha let her smoke.

You can pull it apart and try ti clean it, it is nothing more than a momentary on/off switch. I would assume the issue is not in the cleanness of the switch though, I would assume the contacts are worn out.

Voltage is normal. Remember our trucks battery should put out 12.6 volts but in order to change a 12.6v battery you need to input more, so our alternators put out 14.2 ish. Any 12v power source will put out 13-14 volts when running. Can you give more details on how the tc comes out of lockup? Does it jump out of lockup or slip out? Any shudder? When does it go into lockup?

Mine lasted a month after the code appeared. Use 2 stroke and let her warm up.

I never look at a dirtymax chebby, because I don't want the owner to notice that I am jealous of his Shaft...............:shifty:

haha u joints can be easier or a PITA, 2 of the 3 I did when I did my trans were cake, one required some heat and a VERY large hammer.

Downpipe hitting the tranny? I know mine used to vibrate against the tranny bellhousing....... until it wore right through.

Hoop la is marketing mumbo jumbo. My draw straw is also put inside the oem basket, which as John said returns fuel to. Very nice setup, but if I didn't have the oem pump in the tank I would have just left the OEM setup.

Yep,

While the current setup is working VERY well, I still think that it could be better if I could read data from the OBDII, event though it is limited it does read, Load, RPM, TPS, and Coolant. With this device http://freematics.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=30 ( could do it myself, but why for 39.99 bucks shipped) I can read the obd port and import via Serial into the arduino I currently have. I should be able to tune the turbo better, Biggest thing is Engine RPM, seeming as the turbo is driven by exhaust flow, it is hard to tune the turbo to work well at low engine speeds, ( requires the vanes closed more) and have it tuned for high RPMS ( requires vanes be VERY open). Current issue with watching only the shaft speed, is you need to tune the turbo for the middle, rather than being able to tune for both.

great post there ^

Either he has no idea what he paid someone to put on the truck or he is lying. Can't add od to a 47re/rh as they already have od. Exhaust brake doesn't attach to the trans. Looks clean, but I'd be curious about if the guy is just blowing smoke

Mine shakes and clunky so bad that yours prob feels like a caddy

could be the axle support bearing.

If I close the vanes on my he351ve all the way in 3 cyl mode I can get egts above 1000*F

400 is about right without an exhaust brake.

care to part ways with your vulcan boots?

If you leave the stock pickup you are reducing the flow of the system to whatever 3/8" can flow. A well installed draw straw works great and gives you 1/2" vs the stock 3/8" If it ain't broke don't fix it, but if you have pressure issues or 1/4 issues then I would look at a draw straw.