AH64ID

No, they are actually smoother, and easier on the trans. But the 48RE is not known for it's ability to hold additional power, especially when towing. The 40hp tune is the max I would recommend towing on with a stock auto, it's not a matter of if you have trans problems, but when. SW3 will net better mileage than SW1 when empty, so that's okay for driving around if your foot isn't too heavy. I would set PoD at 85 on SW3.

You guys are mixing SJR and S06 settings, they are different for Torque. They both have the same timing, TM2 = max, TM4 = least (other than stock). As for Torque TQ2 is the most aggressive on the Jr, and TQ4 is the most aggressive on the SR (and is FAR more aggressive than anything on the Jr) - - - Updated - - - As far as mileage settings. TM2 TQ4 (Jr) TQ2 (Sr). If it's a bone stock auto I would not go above SW2 (Jr) SW3 (Sr), and anything but SW1 will require an intelligent right foot and the TQ set to TQ 1.

Correct, but it puts the stock software for your OEM configuration back in. If it were to make a SO an HO on the stock tune then it wouldn't have been undetectable by the dealership.

2005, 2006, 2007 (5.9)325hp @ 2900610 ft/lbs @ 16003200 redlineHE351CW turbo9cm undivided housingCP3 pump2004.5 is the same, but 600 ft/lbs at 16002003-2004HP235 @2900 (Cali)250 @ 2900 (SO)305 @ 2900 (HO)Torque460 @ 1400 (SO/Cali)555 @ 1400 (HO)3200 redlineHE341 (HY35W Type D)9cm undivided housingCP3 pump

No, stock will be stock (SO or Cali), but the modified tunes are based on HO tunes.

The 04.5 is the only motor that was 600 ft/lbs, the 05+ were 610 ft/lbs. I also read that any 04.5 that got a software update after the 05 was release was made a 610 motor.

Awesome!I think you will be quite happy with the update. How old was your file, and what settings were you running?

The smarty update file should not look like an adobe file, unless you tried to open it with adobe and told the computer to use adobe for it. You should have the "open with" option, select 7 zip. Or open 7 zip from the start menu, and then open the SJRV514B_URS01C.7z file. - - - Updated - - - Good luck! I'll check back in a few minutes.

The usb.exe is not zipped and just needs to be opened. Did you install 7zip? If so then you just need to right click on the 2nd file you download and select 7 Zip, then extract here (or wherever you want to save it). Then open the first file you downloaded, and select the file you just unzipped and send (once your SJR is plugged in). Adobe reader should not be required for the update, just to read the help files.

CSM, the ABS correction doesn't stick in my 05 either when I go back to stock. 06-07's hold the ABS setting.

I am not 100% on the VP trucks, but on the CR's if you flash and deflash a truck the fast idle setting stays programmed. So someone could load and then unload a Smarty tune and the 3 cyl fast idle would stay.

Like others have said it's not too big of a deal. Thou I would highly recommenced letting it build oil pressure before letting it fire. I am not sure how to do this on a VP44 truck, so Micheal and company please chime in. On my CR I just disconnect the injector wiring harness and use the starter. My dad had a 3406C in his commercial fishing boat that went 9 months without starting every year, built in 1992 and sold in 2008. It never had an oil related issue (thou it dad have a faulty injection pump that is a different story). Each year before firing it he would put the injection pump to 0 fuel, and turn it over until it built oil pressure. Then he adjusted the injection pump back to normal idle fuel, and it fired instantly, every time!As far as changing the oil, it all depends. Was the oil new when you parked it? I personally believe in only parking things for extended periods with clean oil. If the oil was new then you should be fine to drive it for a month and park it for 7 more. If it was old oil to start with I would dump it before your fire it up.

The difference is programming. I think the piston cooling nozzles are different between the cali/so and the HO. Yes a Smarty takes a cali/SO and then makes them a HO and then adds power.That's the motor, other differences may be a 47RE trans or 10.5" rear axle, but I think that was isolated to the MY03 trucks.

From my sig truck. 04.5-07 5.9's should be the same.

The new tunes are better than anything previous.

download the following http://www.madselectronics.com/downloadfiles/SmartyUSB.exe http://www.madselectronics.com/downloadfiles/SJR/SJRV514B_URS01C.7z Unzip the second one with 7zip to a known location. Open the first one, then file, then open, then find and select the unzipped file. Plug your smarty Jr into the PC, then press send. It should take about 15 minutes. Windows 7 and XP should work nearly identically, at least they did for me.

It's possible to have a smoother more powerful tune, with less seat of the pants feel because it's smooth. This is something the EFI Live/UDC tunes are really good at.

Why on earth would you run a gasser thermostat? That seems like your asking for trouble.

They are going to 180's and 190's, because they think a 200° is too hot to do any good and is emissions based. It's a simple misunderstanding. I would switch to a 200°, but it would make my fan run more and lower my economy. If I can ever reprogram my fan I would consider it. The max allowed temp, per Cummins, is thermostat based. 212° is the limit for a 180° thermostat, and 225° is the limit for a 190° thermostat. A 200° thermostat should have a limit of around 235-238°. The temp the thermostat is advertised for is the opening temp, most don't go full open for about 15-17° above that, and then have a 15-20° higher max limit based on heat rejection capability.

Will a 2nd gen 24V fit? I am 99% sure a 3rd/4th gen will fit in a 98.5-02, but no clue on a pre 98. Go to some of the other forums, guys are pulling the OEM 200°s all the time and I bet you could get one for the cost of shipping.

Get a 4th gen thermostat, 200°.

If they already own the 06 Ford... www.destroked.com http://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-Dodge-Ram-2500-3500-6-7-Turbo-Diesel-Engine-Motor-11-Cummins-ISB-6-7L-Motor-/190745767080?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c69556ca8&vxp=mtr www.hsperformance.com And bam! About as good as it gets. This is a very popular conversion for a reason, 06 Ford are nice bodies, and well we all know about the Cummins.

I run 50/40 on the truck in the winter, unless I am going to be driving over 60 then 60/45. It is a LOT more traction than my summer 65x4.

I am mixed on weight. I have ran it over the years, and now I don't. Yes the weight can help you start, but it also hurts stopping and turning so in the end I think most "driving experts" say that adding weight is a net negative. I have found proper tire pressure to be far more effective than weight. Drop some air out, you would be surprised what it does for traction.

Gotcha, wasn't sure if it was a seasonal or maintenance driven change.