AH64ID

I have hit some 12%-13% grades around here, and coming down them at 25-35 I never need the service brakes and they are too windy to go faster. I just have never seen a grade labeled that steep.

After having towed with an EB I don't think I would without one! At 18K lbs GCW 5th gear at 55 mph the brake cycles on a 6% grade, and runs a constant 55-57 mph on a 7% grade. 8% grades may see 60, but still holds. That's with the Jake, that many people call "weak" The fact that I can come down 6-7% grades and not touch the service brakes is HUGE! Where is that at? That's BS, complete BS! The price is also double what both my dad and I paid dealerships to install our brakes.

I think your 1 of 8 people in Idaho without A/C!

98° and 19%, with thunderstorms a brewin.

The 05's have either tow/haul or OD off, but not both. I am not sure which way they came from the factory, but the dealership could program the other. Let me see if I can find any info. - - - Updated - - - Found it. So if you have 4th gear (OD) with the tow/haul enabled then you have tow/haul. If you never get OD with it enabled you only have OD off and no tow/haul shift schedule. Models: 2005 (DH) Ram Truck (2500/3500) NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with a 5.9L Cummins turbo-diesel engine and a 48RE automatic transmission (sales codes ETH and DGB respectively). Overview: This bulletin involves selectively erasing and reprogramming the Cummins Engine Control Module (ECM) with new software. Symptom/Condition: 1. The following enhancement is included with this software: a. A new 48RE transmission feature that will allow normal shift schedule with full disable of 4th gear (overdrive gear), when the customer selects the Over-Drive (O/D) switch. Prior to the implementation of this new transmission feature, the use of the O/D switch changed the automatic transmission shift schedule from a "normal" shift schedule to a tow/haul mode shift schedule, and allowed 4th gear (overdrive gear) engagement This new transmission feature will not change the transmission shift schedule, but will allow full 4th gear overdrive disable (lock out). With this new feature the customer will have the "normal' shift schedule with NO overdrive (4th gear). NOTE: To enable the new 4th gear disable feature, the ECM must first be reprogrammed (flashed) with the latest software level, and then the 4th gear disable feature "O/D OFF ENABLE" must be selected (turned on) using the DRBIII. Tow/haul mode is not an available feature whenever the DRBIII has enabled the "O/D OFF ENABLE" selection.

Boise hit 100°, but I only saw 99.8° at our place. Down to 95° now as a thunderstorm is moving in. It feels pretty humid, but I just checked and it's at 14%... I agree!! However, I am not sure "fun house" is the correct term when you show up nekked...

Looks great!I think that 120° is the threshold for pain and being able to hold your hand on it. I would guess your hubs are fine!My dad just had a Yukon kit installed last week and he will be here in a few days so I am anxious the check them out as well. Yukon was using Warn, the reason he went with them, but they now have a different brand that is shorter and supposed to be stronger.

The EFR/DPF are the root of most issues on the 6.7, hope it fixes his.

I am really liking the tank. I get a quart before the pump kicks on, and then it runs constant. With the pump off we get 2 quarts before it runs out of water. Makes for very quiet brushing teeth and toilet flushing when the kiddo's are asleep. The capacitor is located on the A/C unit itself.

What's up with Riggins having the best fuel prices? I filled up there on Wednesday and was shocked at how low it was. $3.80ish in Boise still.

I don't know about on the 6BT, but on the HPCR the compression difference on the high HP marine motors is from the head gasket, and not the piston itself. Marine motors are under constant load at a specific rpm, and the prop demand is not linear its an increasing slope. So you can have a motor that doesn't make as much hp at 1300 rpms but meet the prop demand hp and the load is constant so the turbo doesn't have to react quickly like in a pickup. The compression ratio is lower because the build them to run at rated rpm, and even without huge boost they last longer with a sligtly lower compression ratio. Before getting a new piston set I would try a 370 marine nozzle, cheaper then R&R and parts on a new piston set.

That's a question I would ask a good trans builder, but I would assume a torque converter and valve body???

I believe the BJ's are allowed a fair amount of vertical movement, it's the lateral movement that is bad. - - - Updated - - - The service manual allows .090 of vertical movement on the lower BJ, and 0.060 of lateral movement on the upper BJ, exceeding either of those calls for replacement.

Take the weight off the wheels and see how much side to side movement there is. i.e grab the top and bottom of the tire and rock it in/out (perpendicular to the direction of rotation).

There is the same concern, but I too have heard in the thousands, or ten thousands.

I would go with a PXRB from pac brake. I would also consider mild trans upgrades to hold the retarding power. Anyway you go you will need a controller to lock the torque converter. I personally don't like the way BD regulates pressure, looks too easy to plug and fail which would push too much back-pressure to the head.

My 03 4runner has all the modes listed above except 2LO, which with 4LO (full time) it's not really needed. I believe they still offer this xcase, but to answer your 2nd question.. I haven't found one and I have looked. For all the dirt road towing I do I would love FT 4WD.

Got some stuff done on the camper this weekend. I got the hard start capacitor installed, pressure tank installed, and the voltage adjusted on the converter. Pics to follow shortly. - - - Updated - - - Here is the wiring/capictors as the a/c unit came from the factory. It does not have a hard start cap installed. Looking at the OEM wiring diagram on the side of the a/c unit it showed the optional hard start cap being installed in series with the run cap. Which looks like this. And all back in their homes. I haven't ran these off the generators yet, but on my older a/c it sure made an audible difference in the start-up time and noise. As for the pressure tank I had a dead space next to the furnace, and below a storage shelf. It is the perfect size, and had the water running thru it already. I used a series of pex fittings, and some 250 braided 1/2 hose. All in all a pretty easy install, other than the opening to install it is 2" narrower than my shoulders/chest. But it's in, secured, and doesn't leak. I get almost a gallon of water out of it before the pump kicks back on. The pump also doesn't cycle at the 1-2 Hz rate it used to, now it fills the pressure tank back up and then shuts off till the tank is drained. The only time the pump runs all the time is with both hot/cold on full, which is not a normal usage. As far as the voltage on the converter. I found 3 rheostats on the back of it, one controls the fan on amperage, one unkown (testing to see if its boost or float voltage), and the last is bulk voltage. I turned it up to be at ~14.0 instead of the 13.6. After reading online it seems nearly impossible to get the model converter I have to go into bulk mode, so instead of replacing it I am just going to let it charge a little hotter on bulk. After ~48 hours is goes into float, so not an issue for extended plug ins.

No, that is the main event timing only.

Yeah with mileage like that I would check it every morning, so the oil is at the same temp. I just wouldn't get in it and go 500 miles with the trailer hooked up without a stop or two to check it until you know the usage rate.

No, still a part time transfer case. The front end is assembled like it would be with a full time case but it's not. I would LOVE a FT case. 2HI, 4HI, 4HI-Lock, 2LO, 4LO, 4LO-Lock.

I wouldn't hesitate to have them replaced. Why pay for the labor twice. 100K isn't too bad for BJ's, and doing it now falls under preventative vs reactive maintenance.

The hub is where the front axle connects to the wheel. If it's disconnected the axle isn't connected to the wheels, and thus not being driven by the wheel. In 2wd the xcase isn't spinning the drive shaft, so nothing in the front end will rotate. One to two mpg's would be HUGE, and easily pay for itself. Not to mention the reduced bearing downtime, fewer u-joints, 2wd low, etc.

I would add the oil back to the full mark and drive it. Check it every few miles for a while to see how quick it's going down. Did the dipstick tube come loose from the block?

The last few tunes have been tweaking the low rpm and cruise rpm/load settings. I think I like where it is. I got just over 17 on the last tank and there was plenty of WOT runs, something that should have gotten me in the 15-16 range previously. Time will tell, but it also seems to be doing a bit better towing.