AH64ID

What is the reasoning behind that?Just about everyone recommends reading the hot line as that's the hottest the fluid every gets and the fluid is damaged from temp long before the trans is. Your pan temps, especially in a DD pan, could be fine but the hot line could bet 60-90° hotter and your fluid is getting cooked.

According to the installation instructions it has one, but you don't really want to monitor temps in the pan anyways, especially a double deep pan. The hot line is a far superior place to monitor temps and will actually tell you much faster if you are getting into a too hot of a range.

I would say you have the miles under our belt to prove it! I just noticed that I use less due to constant speed, now if I was driving to get the best possible mileage I could see where paying attention to the topography and using your foot would be better, but normally I am on vacation and want easy towing!

That's too bad the 2nd gen works that way, using the EB with CC is the best part about an EB.

Probably a Mag Hytec. http://www.maghytec.com/

I use mine all the time winding thru the mountain roads around Idaho. I find it much easier/safer driving to pick a speed that will allow me to make all the corners and just hold that speed, no accelerating or braking. Most of the time that speed is the posted speed limit, or 5 below. As far as downhill your exhaust brake must work different than mine. If I have CC engaged and the EB on and the speed goes above the set point the EB will engage and keep me at that speed, it works great on the mountain roads around here. On a recent trip from Boise to Idaho City (about a windy a road as anywhere, and a good contstent climb) I set the cruise at 43 with the EB on, I only had to touch the fuel or brake pedal once each way on the trip up and trip back, speed limit was 45 and I didn't ever have a backup of cars behind me. It was the easiest towing I had ever done on that road because I didn't have to play with my speed.

Based on some comments I recently read I was wondering what everyone does. I use cruise as often as possible. I find it runs more stable EGT's and provides better economy.

I agree with the concept, my truck just didn't seem to care for it.

I would use a trans temp gauge and pay attention to how often it shifts. If it's in/out a lot then lock it out.

They are not very efficient at filtering, and quite often allow dirt/oil to pass thru and this chips away at the compressor blades. There is lots of supporting threads on the subject on various forums. Most who do some research will remove their K&N filters as quick as they can.

ISSPRO gauges are the best these days. A fuel pump should be first on your list in addition to a fuel psi gauge. Ditch that K&N filter, they are turbo killers. It's really hard to go wrong with any of the 4" exhaust kits out there. Being an 01 your WG line is a hard line, I would look into a J-Hook.

Be sure to check what filters come on the AD, the ones that are on the older units will provide lower overall filtration than stock. The newer ones are better, but I still don't think the f/w sep is as good as stock and can be improved.

Are you running any cetane boost? My motor hates it and ticks.

Interesting, the LED in my Jake switch has worked flawless for the last 4 years, and the other LED rockers (same switch as Pac uses) are 3+ years old without issue.

Could be a failing injector. Try a bottle of injector cleaner and make sure your fuel filter is a good one!

The reason the 6.7 runs so quiet is the controlled pilot injection event, its also why HPCR 5.9's are so quiet. VP trucks are loud for sure, and I am not sure why they are so loud relative to a 12V, they both only use 1 injection event. The "pop" pressure on a HPCR actually isn't pop as they injectors are electronically opened. The pressure also varies greatly from about 7K at idle to 23K max on my truck. EFILive is out for the 06-07's, and you can see how much the timing varies! Long read, but there are some good graphs and charts in here talking about the stock tuning, which is essentially the same from 04.5-07. http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104594&highlight=stock+timing+tables

Ever since I bought my truck it has has shifter rattle from the Jake Brake switch. The original was replaced under warranty and when I went to get the 2nd replaced under warranty the regional rep couldn't read, nor do math, so it was denied... Anyways I finally bought a pac brake switch, which I should have done 4 years ago! I am a little disapointed as the both the box and the pac brake website show the switch being lighted, but it's not. When I called and asked they said they don't offer a lighted switch I asked why it shows one and they had no answer :banghead: Oh well, the drive to work today was so quiet!

Yup.. I guess I need to take a few! Here is the level spacer installed. The other thing I was worried about, and the main reason I put the 2" level on the day I bought it, is oil pan clearance. There just isn't enough stock for my liking. 1" still has plenty!

I got the 1" installed, and have had it on for about 2,200 miles now. About 1/2 of them are towing, hauling, or both. I am much happier with the 1". The truck still has a taller look to it and stands apart from a stock rake, but there is a good deal of rake now and I like it. I am able to use about 1/2 of the air in the bags, or less, when loaded and the truck stays level or slightly raked. I am able to allow the rear suspension to drop 1-1.5" when loaded which really improved the ride/handling. With the 2" level I never sat right with a load, even with very full bags. A couple things that I didn't consider before but are pluses are the engine bay is easier to access, even at my 6'4" height, the kids can climb in easier, and best of all the ride is SOOO much smoother.. I guess that whole control arm parallel to the ground thing is true :banghead:. The receiver did rise a little, as did the tailgate but nothing crazy. I lowered my W/D hitch one hole and the TT is more level than it was before.I didn't realize how much the 2" stance didn't agree with me until I put the 1" in and am always smiling when I look at the truck.. I think the wife is tired of hearing me comment on it!I highly recommend the 1" to anyone wanting a little taller stance.

Interesting, I would have expected your static timing to have had more change with ambient and the dynamic timing of VP's and CR's to have kept it more similar.

EGTs are ±25° of that from 50-100° ambient. I think those were noted at the following, 70 @ 97°, 60 @ 83°, 50 at 75°. IAT's are +10 from the ambient.

Here are some figures from my current setup. 50 mph, ~1500 rpms, 575°, ~1 psi of boost60 mph, ~1800 rpms, 650°, ~2 psi of boost70 mph, ~2100 rpms, 700°, ~3 psi of boost

Take one of the lines off at the cooler and drain the system, hook it back up. Then you can pull the line on the reservoir and put it into a container, add fluid to the system and turn the wheel a few times until the reservoir is dry, do that at least twice. Put the return line back on, top off the system and turn the wheel a few times. Then start and turn the wheel and pump the brakes, top off until its full.

I just read thru my owners manual on all of the programmable features and couldn't find the optin to disable the "key-in-ignition reminder.. if you can find out how please let us know!

That sucks! Glad you weren't hurt.