AH64ID

That sounds more like a band aid for a cooling system that isn't working properly.

Never doubted that the heat would be rise with static fluid. Heat rising isn't what's been in question, its the accuracy of the probe location when driving. The probe is removed laterally from the fluid, subject to outside cooling the fluid isn't, and is likely not bathed in fluid. That's what is in question, and I don't think you can answer that with an IR gun , as the case temp will be lower than the fluid temp (just like the differences in our stove thermometers, where you said your's is a true temp and not a stack temp... I look at your trans temp probe like a stack temp and not a true fluid temp).

Interesting.

I had a-pillar gauges and they blocked too much of the view, so I switched to a dash mount and couldn't be happier. I've also had a steering column mount and it didn't last long, neither did the triple by the rear-view mirror. So I've pretty much tried them all and the triple dash is the least obtrusive, easiest to read, and cleanest looking IMHO.

I have a combo of digital and analog gauges. I have EGT/Boost/Fuel Pressure on the dash, Oil Pressure by the gauge cluster and my MM3 on the A-pillar. The MM3 is nice as it shows me things that the analog gauges don't, such as rail pressure, load, a better ECT, and IAT's. I also have a post turbo pyro on there. Analog is better for the quick glance at important things, as digital takes more time to digest. It all depends on how it's reported. The OBDII signal is probably pisa, not psig so the the UG or Quad have to convert it. Some convert it by just subtracting 14.7, which works well for guys at sea level. Some subtract the ambient pressure, which will be close to a boost gauge but still different.

No reason, other than they won't match. Want me to load you my Ultra Gauge OBDII reader for the trip? It should read boost, and it's just sitting on the shelf right now.

I get what you’re saying. The temp when stopped would be lower anyways as there isn’t heat being generated with the gears, and the fluid isn’t moving to pull heat out of the gears/bearings.

I compleatly agree. The potential issue I see with @Mopar1973Man‘s location is the removal of the probe from direct fluid contact due to its height as well as the reducing bushings. If the probe were constantly bathed in fluid I bet it would read hotter. Just the effect of the bushings and airflow will alter the readings.

Ever seen how far it drops in the diff? Several inches is probably accurate. Several inches wouldn't surprise me at all, in fact I'd be very surprised if your probe was in the bath at highway speeds.

Like others have said, downshift and drive it. Rpms above 2000 is very important for grades, and on the flats I wouldn't go below 1800.

I still think it’s too high thou. The fluid level will likely drop several inches at speed. I also think the reducing bushings place the probe too far out into the ambient air, which will also reduce the temp readings. My oil temperature gauge sticks out of the filter head about the same amount and if it didn't have constant fly around it (in the feed for my bypass) I wouldn't trust it's accuracy. Being that your transmission doesn't have pressurized flow around the probe, and the level is likely below the probe at speed I think the reads are low. The fluid moves enough that the bottom would give a fluid bath temp, which would likely read higher. Next time you change the fluid you should relocate it to the PTO cover for a final determination.

I have a Arcan 3T that I got from Costco. I don't recall what I paid but it's listed for $99 now, and I recall getting it on sale.

5w-30 crankcase is only marginally thinner than 75w-90 gear lube. SAE 50 is by far the thickest.

It should work just fine, thou as others mentioned the scale is wrong.. but it should work just fine.

Absolutely, but the article I read was talking about how additives change the cetane/pour point vs different refining. Additives aren't making #1 out of #2, which is why it doesn't have the same effect. I'll have to see if I can find it again.

I wouldn't call that chemically altering, that's mixing.

My understanding is that chart applies to fuel that is refined differently, not chemically changed. It makes more sense to me that chemically altered vs refining will have different effects.

Haha... I thought it was a chainsaw at first too. I turned it off, you know... mainly for work :-)

The main time I use it is for elk hunting. I spend anywhere for 7-21 days in the woods and the truck never gets above 20 mph, and 1/2 the miles are all downhill. So I want to help improve that low temp and low load combustion, the starting help never hurts at 8K feet in the cold either. I use Amsoil Cetane Booster and enough for about a 3-4 point increase. Nothing huge, but hopefully helpful. If we’re going to be in the woods in the winter I’ll also add a little, but that’s not an annual thing like hunting. Sometime it gets added for Christmas tree hunting, yurt trips, or hot springs trips. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/fuel-additives/diesel/diesel-cetane-boost/

I’ll be ordering up a fill of CK any day now. I have mixed emotions as I just got back another great UOA with AME, but I’m still going to try CK. DME, which is a CK 15-40, has better properties when hot and that’s what I’m after.

I don't recall where I read it, but I did read that fuel that has the Cetane chemically altered doesn't have the BTU change, which does make sense. I've also read that many places now just treat #2 as their winter fuel, instead of mixing it with #1. So the Cetane may increase, if they chose to, but the BTU's don't have to decrease. I'll run a Cetane booster for a few tanks a year when I want the benefits of improved starting and low temp/pressure combustion.

Yes it does.

Generally 2 6V’s will end up with a higher total amp hour rating than 2 simaler sized 12V’s. 6V’s are also generally a true deep cycle battery, and can handle the abuses of a RV better. Unless you want to spend a lot of money it’s very hard to beat a pair of 6V golf cart batteries for amp hours, and durability.

That sucks! If you have access to Costco their 6V’s are the best bang for the buck I’ve found.

Well they are still at it. Camper has been parked and batteries disconnected since the week after Labor Day, so I figured a top off cant hurt before it gets any colder. It’s already been down to 10°F several nights here. Batteries are chilling at 13.11V. Put the charger on just for fun anyways.