AH64ID

I buy lots of filters from filterspro.com. As long as you're not buying 1 filter their prices are better with shipping, from what I have seen. I have to buy my FF5817 locally, but will be switching to the BDF next filter change.

All pumps are rated at 0 psi, not 0 restriction. Filters are part of the pump, and when clean they do not offer a restriction worthy of discussing. The reason filters are so large is to provide enough surface area to not hinder flow until the filter is significantly plugged. That being said, the standard AD filters lack significant media to efficiently filter and flow what they need to. The problem with exceeding a filters flow is that you run the increased risk of pushing water and contaminants thru the media, while hindering performance. @notlimah, I wouldn't use the P558000 as it only has an 85% f/w separating rating. For some reason many Donaldson filters lack the f/w separation rates of the Baldwin or Fleetguard crosses, which is why I generally recommend Baldwin and/or Fleetguard f/w seps. If you have the vertical room try to run the P551311, or better yet the new DBF5817 with Synteq XP media. For the f/w Sep I would look at the FS1000. It only has a 90 GPH rating, but should support a FASS still making good pressure.

You'll want the Donaldson/Baldwin mix for the best filtration. Neither is rated for the full flow of the AD, but as long as you're not below about 12 psi it "should" be fine.

As far as I know Donaldson doesn't have a good f/w sep that fits the AD. The P550550 crosses to the BF1275 but doesn't share it's f/w separation or flow rating. I wouldn't run it without supplemental f/w separation.

I am not sure if AD ever changed their filters, but the last time I checked the OEM AD filters had worse filtration than stock. If you run a Baldwin BF1275 and a Donaldson P551315 on their you'll be good.

What filters are on the AD?

Air may be different, but the inability to remotely read temperature readings is not. If you want an accurate temperature reading the probe needs to be in the flow. 1/4" removed from the flow is a 1/4" too far. Even thou it's air, look at the EGT differences people see by putting their pyro probe in the EGR blockoff plate on a 6.7 vs the actual flow. The readings are drastically different due to the much lower flow over the probe. Liquid will have a much lower error, but there is no point in installing a gauge to get a "close enough" reading. The whole point in this gauge is to get some data on the oil cooling capacity on a modded motor.

If you’re out of the main flow your reading a localized temp vs the actual temp. The IAT senor on the 2nd gen is a prime example of how much location matters. The 2nd gen IAT readings seem so far off you have to wonder why they even bothered.

If that was the case there would not be a difference in temperature between coolant and oil.

Yeah, I’m just worried that the probe won’t be far enough into the stream by the time the adapters are done.

There is a port by the ECM that is a metric O ring fitting. That’s where I read pressure from. I didn’t think I could adapt the 1/8” NPT to o-ring and still have the sensor in the flow.

Hahahahaha!!! I’ve never heard that analogy, but I love it!!!!!

That’s the same information I found. I wish I knew exactly where they were measuring oil temperature, but I’m guessing it’s in the filter head. And they spec that with Dino oil, and one of the reasons I run amsoil is so that if it does get hot the oil is not affected.

I got the 250° from the Cummins ISB max allowable oil temp for non-EGR engines. EGR engines can go up to 275° I think +20° is a normal reading from what I read.

That makes a lot more sense.

It’s a 462 or a 461? Just found release info on the 462. It’s due for US release in June of this year. http://proarbmagazine.com/stihl-set-launch-lightest-high-performance-forestry-saw/

I finally got around to installing my oil temp gauge. The sender is in the filter head. So far I don’t have many miles on it but the oil temp stays about 10° below coolant while the engine is warming and then under normal loads it’s matches coolant. I’ll be towing with it soon enough thou. I have the ISSPRO attribute programmer but I haven’t decided what temp to set the alarm light to. I was thinking 250° thou.

Gotcha. You must have just gotten it in the last couple months. I didn’t think it was released in the US yet. It’s still not listed on their website.

I’d love to see pics of the tables too! I’m planning to make a table top for a cabana, whenever we get around to it. @Mopar1973Man did you get the 462 locally? I can only find it on the international site. It seems like one heck of a saw thou!

They are hard to beat. I grew up running an 028. It was unfortunately lost, but the Stihl impression was left.

I hate people! I don’t understand why so many are bad. It’s so easy to be a good person. 066 and 088 are big! This one has a 25 inch bar, but if I bought new I think I would’ve got the 20 inch. I’ll likely mod the muffler and see how it goes. Everything out here is soft wood anyhow.

Since I’ll be hooking up the wood stove in my shop this summer I figured I’d get a bigger saw to help with the wood gathering. I’ve got a Stihl MS260 with a 16” bar that’s perfect for camping wood, but I don’t want to strain it with more wood. I’ve had my eye set on a Stihl MS 361 or 362 for several years as my next saw. I was willing to buy a new 362 since they are a rare fine used. I’ve got a wood cutting trip coming up in a couple weeks so this was the week I was going to pony up and get a new MS362 with the wrap handle. This morning I decided to do one last Craigslist check and there it was, less than an hour old.... a MS362 with a wrap handle and a 25” bar and spare chain. I jumped on the deal and bought it! I’m super excited. It appears that it’s only got a couple tanks, at most, thru it. I also ordered a new carb for my MS260 so I can get a H screw and do a muffler mod on it. Let the season of the screaming beaver begin!

OEM rims are generally heavier, and sturdier, than many aftermaket rims. I paint my OEM 17's with flat black and leave the center caps unpainted. I like that look the best.

If all 4 tires are the same it is very very unlikely that oversized tires will throw a code. The ABS module may not know the actual speed you're going but it won't know that. AFIK the trans sensor isn't used for speedo/ABS but rather for shifting, so it too shouldn't care.

There are tone rings on the wheel hubs for 4 wheel ABS in 2000+ trucks. Yukon is not compatible with 4 wheel abs for 94-99. The bearings, seals, and even lockouts are all Dana 60 standard. The stub axles are Dana 60 but with more splines, so the the lockouts also are slightly different. 35 spline stuff is petty common these days thou. Why would you want want to disable front ABS?