AH64ID

How old are the seals? I am assuming you are checking/repacking the bearings more often than every 10 years.

As others have mentioned, what is the status of the trans and injectors.

Cool as $hit if you ask me! Conjoined twins gone wrong..or right, as one lived, if you ask me. My good buddy and college roomie is a CO in those parts. I should call him up.

-5° this morning. It's a beautiful morning to sip some coffee and watch the sunrise. CSM I have flown a 172 around Idaho and it's as small as I would want with a little payload and a VFR day. What do you have access to?

If the battery was dead the dash would die, basically, when you try to start it. Try disconnecting the batteries for a bit and the retrying. Some 06's have a issue with the TIPM programming and the standard amp draw of the starter. In a nut shell it senses "too" much amperage for the starter, even if it's normal, and if it does that so many starts in a row it will disable the starter output. Disconnecting the batteries can fix it, temporarily.

When you take the key to start do the idiot lights blank? Moved to HPCR 5.9 section.

Since you are plugged in I would decrease your warm up time. 3-5 minutes max and 10 minutes is excessive. Those numbers are from Cummins. You really only need 10-15 seconds of idle time since you plug it in. I run a pair of fuel heaters. The OEM 300w one in the filter bowl and a MOPAR one at my 1st filter that is also 300w. While you shouldn't need it with properly winterized fuel it isn't a bad idea to be safe.

Tonight's forecast low is 10°. The current temp is 3° and falling... We went thru 50+ lbs of pellets today! The propane furnace ran for a bit too, though not too much. I did check the level of the propane tank today. In just over 3 months we have only used ~100 gallons. I can live with that considering its our backup heat (typically runs a few minutes a day but generalky not over 30 min), cooking fuel, and hot water source.

Based on the zero offset wheels I would need longer control arms at a minimum. The 265's are 23 rev/mile fewer which is 3.7%. It doesn't seem like much but it is enough to effect 6th gear towing below 72-73 mph.

If I didn't mind losing the effective gearing by going with a 265/70R19.5 I would probably be looking into a 3" lift and longer control arms, but this truck does a bit of towing.

Heavier tires and taller tires certainly do accelerate wear. Quality parts still last longer. Smart shops get their parts from other suppliers. The only local source doesn't make it a good source. NAPA may work for some, but their quality has been steadily slipping for years.

Yes New Meadows is always cold. Low was only 10° here last night.

You would be surprised. There is no real warranty on wear and tear which is what nearly all BJ's fail from. NAPA is going down the drain. More and more shops quit using them altogether.

So far I am unable to find the movement limits for the 00-02 axle, but I am still searching. FYI, on the 03-09 (and presumably 10+) from AAM 9.25" axle the limits are 0.090 vertical on the lower BJ and 0.060 lateral on the upper BJ.

What has it been at your place?

Now that I got my generator ready to power the house we probably won't lose power for a year :-) It was 1° here yesterday morning. The pellet stove has barely turned off in a couple days and we actually have it on "high".

Could be. Then again you still shop at NAPA Are the 00-02 D60's different? No, the dynatrac's aren't cheap, but even if they only last as long as OEMs they are rebuildable on the truck. That is huge! All the BJ changes will wear out the knuckle and then you are looking at a new axle housing. How many of the people that eat BJ like candy are wearing out the joint, and how many have issues from loose knuckles? There is a reason for splined BJ's and what happens when those don't fit tight?

There is plenty of truth in you get what you pay for. Search the bigger forums on cheap ball joints.

Changing ball joints isn't a fun job and a few more bucks now may be work fewer R&R's down the road. I bought the dynatrac's and they are a very nice unit, hopefully they last. I have 30K miles on them now and no issues.

Just throwing this out there... I went from a 2" spring spacer to a 1" spring spacer and my ride quality was night and day. I was floored at how much of a change 1" made in the ride based on control arm angle. Dropping to 1" would also allow you to remove the AAL, which I have had nothing but horrible luck with and always advise against. I am quite excited to see what you come up with thou!! Just wanted to throw the under $200 option out there. I also run MaxxLinks and found no change to ride quality with them over the OEM 3rd gen models. Speaking of 3rd/4th gen's if you do the swap to the 3rd gen rear leaves there are 2 basic spring packs offered. There is a 4/1 spring pack found on 03-13 2500's (also 03-09 3500 SRW 3500's) and the 3/1 pack found on DRW's and 10+ 3500 SRW's. There is also a 2 leaf upper overload that was found on 03-09 3500 SRW's and all DRW's. The 3/1 spring pack is only rated 7% stiffer than the 4/1 spring pack. I have driven both and the 3/1 is slightly stiffer but only if you are really paying attention. You will love the 5100's. I grew up running Rancho and now wouldn't touch them. They are overpriced short-lived junk.

I run the M085171 and the OEM resonator off of a 5.9 mega can. I ran just the Donaldson for about 4 months and really liked the sound and the drone was minimal and probably could have been eliminated with better hangers; however, I added the MC resonator for the exhaust brake. With just the Donalson the exhaust brake was painfully loud and high pitched, to the point where you could not have the windows down and use the exhaust brake. The MC resonator is starting to rust out and I would like to replace the entire exhaust. I have been looking at the Donalson silent partner mufflers since they are designed to help with exhaust brake noise. I am running into a flow issue thou, but it may not be a real issue. Looking at the QSB 480 specs it peaks the exhaust flow at 2174 CFM at 1301° and 3400 rpms. I figure I am going to be really close to that peak flow potential but I don't run those kind of rpms. Even still ill it looks like I may need to use a 5" muffler to get the silent partner. The M101181 should work. It is rated for less flow than my current muffler but still flows over 2600 CFM at 3" hg.

There are options but none of them will pass emissions. Checkout race me tuners.

Kinda cool looking. I wonder how durable they are.

That is based on the axle weight ratings, which is far more important than the GVWR. GVWR is mostly meaningless on these SRW HD pickups Don't exceed FAWR and tire/wheel limits on the rear and you are in good shape. Add the air for the load and it will be even better. Even thou my front axle weight decreases with a trailer hooked up I do not lower my pressure. The front axle gets lots of stress on winding roads and lower pressure would mean more heat and that's not good for tires or handling.

As long as you don't lock the wheels up while braking they can help, but if the wheels lock with the chains off the ground (where they are likely to lock) then they don't do any good. Vehicles with ABS will still brake a little better with chains, IME, than those without or those that disable ABS in 4-Lo.