JOHNFAK

No.Kinda what you said.I knew the shape/style of body as well as the CR injection (ECM controlled delivery) was differentI figured there may be some emissions stuff depending on year ? But wasn't sure what elseIS the tranny a 48re for auto ? Anything else (major ) ?

what he said ..........

To increase my thread count and to post over here :postwhore:So the 3rd gen come with a common rail rather than vp44 ..... what else ?

Man that is SCHWEEEET Keep us posted on this one - I would love to know how long that paint lasts - and then she's going on my truck. I was just looking at $500 rims last night on ebay - didn't look any better

thats the bit I'm shooting for - hahahaha will let you know - we can compare notes before and after:thumbup2:

whaaa ???? you cant stick a pic in unless you caught it !!!!! Sorry - datz the rulz I didn't make them

Man $200 ? Shipped ? thats a good price. Mine were $285 shipped. Still - hoping they make the difference. I did look at the ranchos but couldn't find many reviews about them on our 2nd gen - so took the safe/girls route and went the 5100's.Glad they are working - I like the adjustable feature.

yeah but now I have excuse for new ones - so they are on the way. sadly your probably right Anything like this ?

yeah - tell me about it. The valve stuff I had not much choice on. The rest is mainly because we are going to sell our SUV and then this will be our daily driver - hoping the coils/bilsteins add a little extra ride. Would say most people 80% are for a good improvement and 20% for little/no improvement on shocks alone - so see how it ends up. Injectors - well secretly I always wanted to put in some ...... so with head off it seemed a good choice - and since you run RV275's - if I can get an extra 1mpg - then that will do - but hopefully saves me from addressing that at any stage later with 120k miles. The tranny cooler - well she runs well right now (when I have her) after the tranny work - staying around 160-17 degrees on HOT line when I am locked up. But as soon as I start/stop in 100 degree heat - it gets up to 220-240 pretty quick - so tranny cooler on way - and I can do that bit Yeah - its been a hell of an experience - probably hardest thing I have had to come to terms with and try and learn ........ but this forum made it possible - rocks - great advice and guys. And at the end - I still need to get this truck to alaska as well as a pass-through to idaho to drink a beer and catch a fish with you - sometime - somewhere keep u posted. (Mike - can u put up a second link - donations to johns truck ?? That would work/help. *joke*) ciao

Yeah right. Anyway I know even less than Mike - and I have an auto - but to keep the thread moving .... What do you mean until you lift the throttle ? Have you made any changes to the truck recently ?? I had problems with my truck starting to move off the line. To be honest it just felt like the power wasn't transferring to the wheels too well. In the end I had to add a new TC and valve body with higher line pressure. And everything was ok. When they inspected my TC - they said it was very close to 'death' and potentially taking out my pump etc in tranny. The other thing I have seen/experienced is not enough fluid in the tranny. Even though the manual says to be precise and not overfill - I have found I have to generally add at least 1 quart more than I thought I had to. And then she moves well. It might even be 2 quarts now with new 3x disk TC. Finally band adjustment for 1st/2nd gear and 3rd gear shifts. http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/automatic/AT_band_adj.htm

Hey mate - to be honest I am not sure of the reason specifically anymore than I have read. Mike or W+F or one of the guys will know more on the details (eg voltage/electrical side). Here's a good brief overview of the voltage 'noise' that can come from the APPS or alternator. http://www.trnw.net/z-store/glaenzer.html If the terminal fixes the issue - probably related to the voltage/signals of the circuit to the apps itself glad its working for now:woot:

ha - thats 1 step away from your pics of a redneck pool Well I went with the COILS (thuren 2nd gen 2" front lift) and 4x bilstein 5100 Researched a bunch of options - and this seemed to be best bang for buck from peoples experiences. Rear leafs were what Don recommended as bets way to go - but it degrades the towing capacity by %15 and costs a reasonable penny. Liked the idea of airbags - but didn't want to mess with that myself - and couldn't be bothered to trying to find an installer. Will update on any differences good or bad with the ride when I get it back - 1-2 weeks. John ---------- Post added at 09:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:28 AM ---------- These were the air system I had a brief look at http://shop.airliftcompany.com/product/290468/80765/_/Air_Lift_1000%3B_Coil_Spring They ride 'above' the leafs in the rear in front ..... I think it goes inside of the coil here's a video link (it shows rear - but same for front I think) about 5min 35" sec into the video http://www.airliftcompany.com/installation_videos.php

Basically the took the head off after checking manifold and rechecking my valve adjustment to be sure it was all good. Said it was a burnt valve- $1000 between labor parts - not sure exactly what they are doing - in terms of it has to be machined or something - but not sure if thats the valve exactly (i.e 1 valve) or all of them ....... So whilst he's got the truck for like 2-3 weeks - gettingNew passenger side balljoints (a little play)RV275 injectorsThuren front coils and 4x bilstein 5100'sDerale Tranny coolerwhat the heck - its only $$ - this truck may kill me in 1 year from now - :lmao2:Will keep posted when I find out more details on the valve job (specifics).

<quote> In May my Edge took a dive, so I sent it in to get reflashed. </quote>Is it possible this caused the issue with the timing - and ultimately the vp44 failure ?? If thats what it is ? He mentions 17psi of fuel though ............. assuming this is all the time even back then

thanksJust ordered these - saved me about $40:thumbup2:

Yeah brother has a boat - but like 5 hours awayso we crappie out of luck Wanna do Lake Taneyacabo or whatever the heck its called sometime

Kinda process of elimination I guess Do mikes app re-calibration - think its just battery disconnect and pedal ECM recalibration. Check out http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/90864-100-cure-overdrive-hunt-fix-4th-gear-hunt-fix-4.html To do with voltage from the alternator - apparenlty $25. So on cost/ease and elimination 1) Mikes Apps Recalibration 2) Clean Terminals Battery 3) Check alternator and connections/grounds 4) Check TV cable - but not sure if this involves OD ??? If it doesnt - skip 5) Sponge/Noise filter from ATS/DTT. If you pm dozer12216 in the thread he says he has a free fix - you could try that - not sure if its the "foil" method. oh - its even in same thread "If you are having this problem get your self electrical tape and tin foil. wrap the tin foil around the wire that goes from your negitive wire to your alternator then seal it up with the electrical tape" At least these are non-invasive /cheap ways of testing - and can get you started on a fix ---------- Post added at 08:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:01 PM ---------- Cheaper 'factory' version from BD http://www.alligatorperformance.com/diesel-1300030-apps-noise-isolator-p-4746.html

Any fish ? Find me some fish.

haha yeah - I'm pretty sure Mike would enjoy putting a video of me loosening the head studs thinking they were the injectors or disconnecting the ECM thinking it was the MAP sensor or something. Then scratching my head and saying .... hmmm .... it shoulda worked right ?

What Mike said. Also there are many threads on similar if you goodgle "dodge ram 4th gear OD hunt". I can't access from work (blocked) but they include voltage regulator new goveneror sensorTV cable adjustment3+4 band adjustment You might want to read over those also - as there has been more than 1 cause (as with everything)

If your gonna tap the vp44 and run a TST/QUAD/EDGE - then consider upgrading VB + TC with auto tranny to hold powerStraight Pipe Exhuast or increase to 4"+ to reduce EGT'sj-hook or elbow to allow more boost - but not over 35psi with stock turbos' I think It makes a heck of a difference on power though.I had the xzt+ as well as another non-tapped programmer - before I tapped - night and day Never tried a powerpuck tho.

HaI'd be worried my truck wouldn;t make it with all the beer or other 'gifts' I'd have to load in the back

ha ha ha ha that made my day The wife wants a better riding truck - so was thinking coils and new shocks bets way to go .......... no money left for rear leafs (but they seam to hold the 9000 lbs pretty well). I know you can do traction and other upgrades as well - but too much $$. Sounds like most of you reckon I could put that $1k to better use elsewhere - will take that on board .......... ---------- Post added 07-20-2010 at 09:46 AM ---------- Previous post was 07-19-2010 at 10:50 AM ---------- Ok - so if I am not going to spend the $1000 on colis/suspension any other ideas ??? How about a few hundred pound sandbags in back so I can still have clearance for my 5th wheel ???? dumb ?? or ?? http://www.rosstraining.com/sandbagconstructionkit.pdf Can create 200lb bags for like $10.

MikePm me your address Need the following Injectors CleanedValves fixed4x4 vacuumCAD fixedleaky rear drifeshaft sealPaint and Polish truckFront bumper installedand about 10 other things Heck - just gonna ship you my truck - sure you have enough room - pick it up in 3 months *joke* thanks for the great writeups !!

yeah thats the advantage of doing against the flexplate from the bottom port of bellhousing. You move it -- then slide a couple feet across - and look at the inspection cover on side (passenger) - or even just keep your left hand finger in the whole to 'feel' when the bolt comes into view of the hole. Then remove for dropping or insert for finishing up. I was gonna do a writeup with picks sometime for the 47re - there is like a 80 page thread here by me with 1000's q's the guys helped me with (thanks) .......... all kinda issues - but these were main things I found. Will get around to cleaner writeup soon with pics. 1) Make sure you have good extension to reach the bellhousing bolts and power - I used a impact wrench but was nervous of stripping bolts. So did as careful as I could.2) Mikes idea of using 4x2 with bottle jack worked awesome for spreading the cross member and removing/installing.3) Have a good tranny jack. Drop tranny and transfer case together. But only put them back up seperate - this saved us SO much grief.4) If doing VB - do it with tranny on its back - was much easier.5) MAKE sure the TC is seated fully in. Apparently you can do damage to pump etc if you muck around with it to much. :shrug:6) Make sure middle alignmnet dowels get put in cleany when reattaching tranny to bellhousing - then tighten all bolts.7) TC bolts - put all on first - only half threaded - then start tightening once all ON. We tightened down 1 at time fully and then had to back everything off to get enough 'play' to get the threads on others started - took AGES.8) Lift and support block from front with regular floor jack a couple of inches on wood if required. Supports weight with tranny not braced and gives a good angle for comming back on.9) Fluid levels - I had to place more fluid than I thought after upgrade - not sure if that was due to 3x disk TC.10) Keep track of bolts/nuts/parts better than I did - It all worked out in end - but spent ages looking for bolts/nuts etc. Thanks to mike, W+F and others who helped me with like gazillion q's - and that was for that 1 thread