bcbigfoot

The dually rear disc brakes (2001/2002) uses larger caliper pistons than the 2500/srw.

I dropped the heater fan\motor and was able to clean most of the stuff out of the heater core by using a heated then shaped tooth brush handle and also melting and bending a vacuum attachment. A inspection mirror is also required. It's not perfectly clean but not bad, I stay plenty warm in winter.

I have been using a 55 dollar 0-35 Autometer boost gauge it has worked flawlessly for the past 8 years, along with a needle valve slightly cracked open acting as a snubber.

I would use 3m 5200 polyurethane adhesive, it's the best I have ever used, it's expensive at around 25$ per tube but it works, I used it to reattach the latch part (not the hinge) to the rear side window, 8 years ago. Clean up area to be glued good with acetone or similar but don't use a alcohol based cleaner as polyurethane and alcohol don't play nice together. I just checked you can get a 3 oz. tube for around 8$. The stuff is truly amazing. And no I don't own or have shares in 3m haha.

My truck is a Canadian truck so it has daytime headlights, I recently noticed that the daytime headlights cause a .018 AC voltage increase. I noticed this by applying the emergency brake which deactivates the daytime lights and a drop in AC volts of .018. I don't know if this applies to any US trucks, I don't know if daytime lights were a option on US trucks. Just throwing it out there. Daytime lights work by reducing voltage to approx. 5 or 6 volts to the high beams, I don't know how they do this pulse width modulation(PWM) or resistor?

Opps just noticed this is in the 12v powertrain forum, is the 47rh pan the same as the 47re. I also see that both plugs were gas welded in with brass, I must have confused the installation of these plugs with the one I installed in my Dakota, which was welded in using a mig.

I cut in half a pipe female to female coupling 1/8 NPT and used a mig to weld it to the front drivers side of the pan, lower part of the pan. The pan is thick enough metal that you don't need to worry about warping, at least with a mig. I don't know if this is the best place but it seems to work well for me.

Mine is this way as well at low boost pressures Autometer boost gauge reads 2 to 3 psi and the Quad shows 0 psi. By 25 psi both gauges read the same. The Quad spokesman has explained why this is, in the Quad forum of this site about 2 months ago, I can't recall the reasons off hand, I believe it had to do with ECM, or factory boost sensor, inaccuracies.

Thanks for the map sensor info/explanation. The number in the data logger is 20180208

My boost is off by 3psi, the Iquad is showing 3psi less than the boost gauges, checked with two different gauges, and also checked with two different map sensors. The boost gauge rises to 3 psi then the iquad starts to show pressure, then by 20 psi the iquad catches up and is accurate. How do I find out which version 2.7.1 or 2.7.7 I have? The adrenaline was updated at DAP's shop on Feb. 28/2018.

Like Mr. Mopar says swipe from the bottom on the tablet border and go up, this will get you a dozen or so gauges you can add. If you swipe right (left side of screen border to the center of display) then you get different gauge setups, pretty slick once you get figured it out, took me a couple of weeks. Make sure you have the proper vehicle selection profile selected or you will have trouble, you want the (V2 Dodge 1998-2002 Version 2.7 ) most likely. Quadzilla has good instructions on their website, http://quadzillapower.com/content/Forms/Instructions/iQuad_Instructions.pdf

So when you say "low psi timing reduct", what is defined as "low psi" in numbers, Example: psi less than 3 psi or less than 10 psi or ? Thanks for any clarification.

Advanced Thermal Products make a turbo blanket http://www.atpwrap.com/html/dodgeram.html

I wonder which side of the fuel filter is the gauge hooked to, might just be time for a fuel filter.

They are likely available but you will need to be able to solder very well. As they are soldered into place, not bolted unfortunately.

The Bosch alt. has a black plastic rear cover and typically has their name engraved. Their are pictures of each type of alt. on Rock Auto's website just to be sure.

Wish my Bosch alt. was that easy. I might look at switching over to one if this Bosch gives trouble.

Depends on which alt., there are two different makes the Bosch and the Denso. The Denso has bolted in Diodes and the Bosch which I have, the diodes are welded in (possibly soldered in) not easy to change. I had the Alt. apart several years ago to rebuild but found it to difficult ( I have rebuilt dozens of alts over the years) decided to take it to the local alt. shop to rebuild. The alt. didn't need diodes but it did need new slip rings, brushes, and bearings. On the bright side the Bosch diodes seem to be hardy as mine are the original and I have worked heck out of them. The last 8 years the truck has been loaded with a truck camper and two extra 105 ah agm batteries connected via a 4 gauge charge wire I can see 130 amp charge rates for 20 mins after starting the truck after boondocking for the night, then tapering to 40 amps. for several hrs. afterwards.

Could maybe try a weed sprayer or something like that , or a bucket and sponge and rubber/latex gloves?

To chemically neutralize the smell use a mixture of 1 quart 3% hydrogen peroxide 1/4 cup baking soda 1-2 teaspoons of dish soap This was tested on myth busters and was confirmed to work.

Read all the tech info on Goerends web site, it gives you a good idea of whats needed. http://goerend.com/standard-duty-applications/

I just checked the Star Network - Vehicle Information Report that the Dodge dealer printed off for me and it says my truck has the AHL-Heavy Duty insulation group. My truck is the second loudest 24v I have ever heard 104 decibels at the oil pan. Some say the injection pump is loud but I can't hear over the engine noise, however at highway speed it's really not all that loud and I'm a noise Nazi. I would say the Heavy duty package seems to work well.

I had also come to this conclusion after reading the 2002 service manual, the service manual is at best is poorly written and confusing (actually just wrong). The hub/unit bearing is bolted with nuts and bolts (no studs) to the rotor. There is no way of removing the rotor without removing the unit bearing nut. I just did a complete brake job 1 month ago, and found the service manual wrong.

I hope the new one's I get from Rockauto don't have the tin cap, seem problematic. Perhaps I could just pop the cap off the one's.

Thanks Mike, I can still get the kits through local parts store if they order them in, however ( I should have been more specific) I can't get new pistons at any of my local parts stores. Next time I head south of the border I will order some from Rockauto as its the only place I could find them. For some reason the tin cap on the pistons are rusting between the cap and ceramic (bubbling) creating a uneven mating surface for the brake pads.