bcbigfoot

I agree rebuilt calipers are typically garbage, the guys rebuilding them must toss the calipers around like Frisbees as most of the machined surfaces are beat to hell. It often takes me 20 mins a caliper to file the mating surfaces flat that are dinted. One caliper I noticed metal filings coming out bleeder hole, I pulled the pistons and it was full of machine filings. I now refuse to buy rebuilt calipers but its getting harder to find rebuild kits.

I just did this a month ago, as mopar says you need to remove the big nut, then the hub and rotor comes off together. Then remove the 8 bolts that hold the hub and rotor together, mine then separated with a few taps of the hammer but my truck has hasn't been exposed to much salt. The wheel bearing nut is suppost to be replaced each time, I have reused the nut with some removable Loctite. IIRC the nut torque is 280 ftlbs. If you use Loctite be aware that it take a min of 400 ftlbs to remove nut the next time.

Whats important is to know the oil temp the trans. is picking up from the pan, you want to know your coolers are doing there job and getting the oil temps down so they aren't hurting the trans.. Oil coming out of the trans. going to the coolers is going to have wild swings in temp. , unusable info for real world. What you want is usable numbers, so you can compare with other people and compare your temps in the future for anomalies and long term trends.

I have used a molded stick on gutter several times over the past 8 years, works very well, bends to go around corners as well. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/eze-rv-gutter-system10-package-ultra-white/16962

Looks like Iron Mountain rd. near Mt. Rushmore? I was on it a few years ago.

As far as I know you are correct, factory valve body will only lockup in 3rd and forth with switch. Joecools was saying he had twin disc TC and I may have incorrectly assumed he had a built trans or at least a built valve body. Most built valve bodies that I'm aware are capable of 2nd gear lockup.

Joecool You could add a lockup switch, it would allow you to have 2nd gear lockup, that would keep temps down if your climbing some really steep grades and give a little engine breaking when it's time to come back down the hill. Very little cost (10$) and a hour of your time. One of the best mods I've done for towing.

This should work for you. http://www.tstproducts.com/Torque%20Converter%20Lockup%20Switch.pdf

I have a Georend trans. and can lock in 2 nd to 4th gears. As I understand Georend trans can also mod the trans to lockup in first as well but must be notified before they build the trans.. Stock trans will only lock in 3rd and 4th gears however most aftermarket valve bodies or shift kits can give you 2nd gear lockup.

My truck idles at 800rpm, according to my maxitrip (scangauge type unit) on the tack it is slightly above the second line down from 1000rpm. In gear it drops to 750rpm. My tack needle fluctuates approx 20 rpm.

Pepsi just watched your video on the stalling issue. My truck also stalls when cold 32f and colder, but my engine really puts up a fight, truck lungges, momentary exhaust/engine noise, puff of smoke from exhaust. It acts just like dumping the clutch in a standard with the brakes applied. From what I could tell in your video when you put the truck in gear its mor like the engine just shuts down, seems like the governor doesn't even try to keep engine running.

When my truck had the stock trans in it, I could lockup 3rd and OD but no 2nd gear. With the Georend it will lockup in 2nd, 3rd and OD. I feel the lockup switch mod is well worth while for decending long grades towing or carrying a lot of weight, definately saves the brakes.The resistor is only for stopping Diagnostic trouble codes. The codes don't hurt anything but some don't like having them.

That would be my best guess, I can't say for certain from here lol. If you removed the 3 extra springs that would likely gain the right distance between the springs and rubber pads. It would certainly help the ride if you don't need the extra capacity.

That isn't a factory overload setup, factory is just two leaf for your year of truck and it looks like you have 5, someone added the 3 bottom leafs. It requires 3500 lbs before my overloads will start to touch.

The Bosch Alt. uses welded in diodes not like some were the diodes are bolted in. Also by the time the Bosch alt. wears out a set of brushes typically it needs new slip rings as well which needs to be pressed on and also welded.

Mike, a couple of questions, which fuse would shut down the alternator/field current. The other question is when I run my digital multimeter across the battery on AC I get roughly 30 volts, I have tried this on 3 other vehicles and get roughly the same voltage, what am I doing wrong or is my cheapy multimeter not up to the task?

I hooked up the factory fuel filter as well. The factory filter is much larger and a better filter than the Airdogs. AH64ID AKA: John Jacobs has made up a fantastic chart comparing many of the different filters http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1994-Common-Fuel-Filter-Data the airdogs just don't compare well with the factory filter and they are way under sized to move the airdogs 100/150 gph. I recently installed the 17 psi in my airdog 100, what is theory/ reasoning behind making the end of the spring a oval. thanks for any input on the subject.

I went the checker plate route, not hard to find some 1/16 at hardware stores. I like the smoked plexiglass idea as well.

Thanks Mike I will give that a try, hope my 30$ multi meter will be as fast as your Fluke meter and be able to pick up the voltage fluctuations if it has any.

Thanks Moostang, I've been having a surge that is getting a little worse over time (last 20000 miles highway miles) it has only happened with the camper on and the adrenaline on level 1 or 2 (no wire tap) but recently I have noticed it even without the Adrenaline being on. Happens from 45 to 55mph in Overdrive locked up only. Seems to happen on level ground, as soon as I push on it a little the surgeing stops. I have confirmed it's not the torque conveter or fuel psi. I have replaced map sensor, IAT, batterys, cleaned all grounds and checked all connections, so think I will try timbo apps. Thanks again Moostang.

Nah Your the man with words of wisdom Mike:smart:. I would use some nice creek water if it flowed through my back yard as well, that would be nice. Just some towns can have some nasty water with sodiom sulphate and disolved calcuim making for high alkaline/ph levels which is just as bad as having acidic water with low ph levels.

Growing up I lived in a town with hard water, very high in calcuim. Boiling one kettle dry it would look worse than Mike's picture and after a year most people would throw out thier electric kettles, and if you used the water in a rad you might get 3 years before the tubes in the rad would plug up or rot out the rad. If you have good tasting drinking water and change your coolant regularly most won't have a issue, however if in doubt at all go with distilled. Since changeing to distilled water 25 years ago in all my equipment and vehicles I simply have never had a issue whith any of the cooling systems and I normally go 6 years between coolant changes.

I'm not a big fan of unions (auto workers comes to mind) however very rarely a union causes a buisness to fail if you look at the north american auto companies as example, look at the crap they were designing and making in the 70's and 80's, it was corperate management (CEO's and bean counter) that put the stamp of approval for car's like monza's, vega's, pinto's,mavericks that were much worse than Russian Lada's (I drove some Lada's when I was in Russia), that made it easy for the Japanese to come in and take market share. It was corp. mismanagement and unions of the 70's, 80's, and 90's that set the stage for thier bankrupcy. Everyone deserves a fair wage if they work hard and a reasonably safe work enviornment. I think the reason the corperations goes overseas is simply profit, they can make money in North America but they can make even more in Bangladesh. I don't want my nieghbor to have to work for 3 dollars a hour and breath in toxic fumes all day(it maybe me tomorrow) just for me to save 25 cents a filter, and give a nameless corp. a extra billion of profit so a select few corp. aholes can get a second 65ft yaht to go with thier 2nd 12000 sq ft mansion in the south of France. The Corp. mentality these days seems to be vacant of any morality, make short term money and to heck with the future and how it might effect the other 99%. Opps sorry for the , but Mike asked for the answer, guess it wasn't me he asked it from . just my point of view. and it might be wrong or change tomorrow. These Financial Crooks err I mean Bankers have really ticked me off the last 3 years.

I have heard of this as well but I don't see any difference with my truck as I have pyro in each the front and rear manifold, a autometer in the front and my Adrenaline in the rear.

Thanks Mike and Dripley, I see by your video how solid your boost gauge is. I have checked the valve lash in the past year and it was good. Both my addrenaline and (lower end) Autometer gauge jump around by as much as 5psi up at 25psi.. To think of it my Autometer guage is 0-35, perhaps the tube is a little on the weaker side and less tolerate to vibrations than say a 0 to 60 guage, hmm head scratcher.