01cummins4ever

If you got the military terminals the cable ends you gave should be all you need. I personally prefer soldier, because it seals it better and you won’t have air gaps that will start to corrode overtime. I use a rosin core soldier and flux. Just fill the ring terminals full of soldier using a propane torch then stick the pre tinned and fluxed cooper wire ends in the molting soldier. Then finish it off with some commercial grade heat shrink. You may be able to soldier and crimp but just plain soldier has been keeping my cables in good shape for the last 6 or 7 years. I even used liquid electrical tape to help seal around the ends of joint before I shrunk the tube on and of course a light coating of oil to help keep the terminals sealed on the battery post

I’ve never Dyno’d mine, my set up is what’s in my sig, I’ve been running the RV 275’s and quad xzt for a few years, been happy with the performance, mine lives on level 2, with the exception of level 3 towing heavy up the steep grades, I’m about 21k with truck and 5ver and boat behind that, and that averages my fuel mileage around 9 to 10 pulling out west here. Truck and 5ver by itself I can get around 11 or 12. It just depends where I’m going. Now truck by itself I can average 19 on daily driving on the overhead lie o meter, or 18 to 18.5 hand calculated. Pretty much 80% rural driving, lots of one horse towns with just a few stop signs or traffic light here and there. I do smoke pretty good on level 3 but I blame that on my hy35 with turnbuckle, one of these days I’ll upgrade to a Hx, or an he351 but for now I just live with it, I can max out at 28 psi, and hold 22 psi, pulling hard uphill and not exceed 1200 on the pyro but generally keep it around 1150. I’m still running the stock air box and factory exuast is still in good shaoe at 327k.

I’m sure you will be happy with that set up, If I was in a better position when mine went out couple weeks ago I would have gone this route.

I really have to look close to notice blowby on mine otherwise you don’t really see it, mine dumps at the rear of engine on top of the front diff, I did the moparman crankcase breather relocate. A tell tale way to check is to unscrew the oil fill cap on valve cover all the way and start engine, it should stay in place, it might dance around a little but not bow off. Of course you can always do a compression check too.

Might check your main vacuum line for leak, that will cause blow by,

I feel your pain, seems to be a bad month for trannys around here.

No experience with the DDT mechanical, but I run the FuelBoss Mechanical, pretty much same set up, as far as the crank mounting location it will not give you any issues and is fairly protected by the radiator and other crossmembers and such, You might try looking at the Glasier Diesel Power web site for the fuel boss and compare to the ddt. The Mechanical creates a lot of pressure and will keep your VP happy with a consistent 16 to 18 psi at idle and WOT. All extra fuel is sent back to the tank via a regulated bypass valve.

And we can all jump on this green movement bandwagon and live happily ever after, our daily lives and energy supply will come from good feelings and unicorn farts.

maybe only used for plowing, 25.000 eeeasy miles, lol. maybe don't snow much where he is at. or maybe just plowed from garage to road then back in garage. hope its got a bullet proof tranny at least

I had the same clip break a year ago, trans line rubbed a hole where it goes between the pan and crossmember, ordered a replacement line from R/A and when taking the rest of the clips off I broke 1/2 of them, brittle plastic. My quick fix was left over 1/2 fuel line over the trans lines where it goes over the crossmember.

It I am seeing this right, The Cummins thermostat 3946849 looks nothing like the oem stat that came in my truck in 2001. Could it be that it’s not an oem thermostat and just marketing purpose says it is, maybe just an aftermarket claiming to be better? but obviously having some failures. I still got the oem stat that I pulled out in 2010, it was still functioning but put a new one in for good measure, Napa part # 375 190 like others have been running with out issues and seems to be very close to the oem Cummins thermostat pic of original

It’s all about getting away from it all

I’ve always had bad vibes with the ceramic pads in these trucks and this just confirms my thoughts even more. Ive always thought that the ceramic pads and slotted and drilled rotors belong on light fast moving race cars going 150 mph or more and not on our overweight slow moving pigs. I would also agree to resurface your originals if you still got them and they are up to spec, probably a lot better material than the after market China stuff. But even the China auto parts store rotors been working for me, as I replace rotors on every 3rd set of pads. But I do burn through a lot of brakes from my heavy towing. I also use the mid grade oem pads, they don’t have as much bite, but are easier on the rotors and don’t leave a mess of brake dust.

I think with a set up like that your going to have problems, probably a lot of cavitation. I would not have s problem with an in tank pump if someone could manufacture one that was reliable and had good volume and pressure but that remains d to be seen. Then you could just ditch the frame mount pump and sump. Then you would have to replace your tank anyway. The sump could be a source of gelling since it hangs down low and closer to the elements. The fuel filter is a probable cause of gelling, without the heater mine will start to gel at about negative 15.

I just changed coolant and flushed the system yesterday. went to Napa to pick up a new thermo and 3 gallons of green, my system looked as clean as day one. Opened up the thermostat box from napa and it was the same as the one I took out, stamped motorad. Last time I changed thermostat was in 2011, never had an issue and that one and it came from Orielys I also dilute antifreeze with well water and my system is clean, no scale build up

You do not need to remove the blue canister, I also used the pirate jacks kit, I think that’s what is was called, it’s been awhile. but pretty straight forward on the rebuild. You can just unbolt the master cylinder and pull forward and leave all line intact. then 4 bolts on firewall and the clip on rod linkage. You probably will need a new brake light switch because once you remove the switch they don’t reset themselves and your brake lights will stay on: I did not remove the brake rod on hydroboost when I did it since mine wasn’t leaking their. but so far so good, no leaks and been a couple years at least

They are not a sealed joint, but it does have a large rubber washer that fits snug in the assembly to help keep the grease in and contaminates out. I just grease it like any other greesable joint by attempting to pump the moisture out and fresh grease in, we have salt, both granular and liquid on our roads too and haven’t had any issues with rust or corrosion

I installed Luke’s links on all my joints in 2010 and 150,000 miles later they are stil tight. I don’t use 4 wheel drive a lot but do on occasions when needed, mostly winter time. and cutting firewood. and yes they are good quality and I would buy them again, that said. I did have to replace the joint on my track bar a while back, it was unrepairable because I let it go to long. So I just got a new one along with a new poly bushing for the other end. I think someday if the trac bar joint starts to loosen up again and I’m sure it will, I am just going to go with a DOR track bar or something similar just because I don’t want to have to keep messing with it. If you are interested in them I would look up the Luke’s link web site and give them a call directly. I believe they are manufactured right here in Colorado farm country. moog, Napa and others are all in the global network chain of parts so you really don’t know what your going to get I think the joints are around 60 bucks each or you can get the whole kit for a little over 300 with a new trac bar bushing. All the joints are the same on all members

I would agree that it’s not necessary, as long as the D70 is sound, you are good to go, you are not overloading by no means, I would put my efforts into air bags or a weight distribution hitch with a bumper pull of that size. I go up to 14k and with pin weight of 2,200 lbs. with fully loaded 5ver, and boat, my D70 has no issues. but air bags are on the want/need list. My truck sits fairly level but it’s just the rough and uneven highways that can have a bouncing effect on the rear springs when fully loaded. If I had a D80 laying around I would keep it as a spare at least

You are correct, it’s the bump of the starter not the click of the key as I stated.

I wouldn’t call it a bonafide test, but I had a hard start when hot several years ago, and tried the pouring water on it, and surprisingly truck fired right up, Don’t know if it was just a coincidence or not, I ended up replacing VP and problem went away, It was a Reman VP that I got a couple months earlier. I wouldn’t think 20 psi. at start up would kill a VP, but you never know, but it’s defently wise to have no more than 5-7 psi at start up. IIRC the ecm is programmed on first click of key to give a 1 sec. burst of fuel, 2nd click 1 sec, and 3rd click about 10 to 15 sec. At least that’s the way mine worked when I had an electric pump.

Just sayin back in the days when full service and self service gas station were right next to each other and when gas was .70 cents a gallon, you usually paid a few more cents per gallon to have full service if you chose to do so and have your vehicle checked out while being filled , but in today’s world of get in and get out I’m sure places like that don’t exist anymore . I would really like to see more places like true full service at least for my wife’s or daughters sake who can seem to get very laxed on vehicle maintenance especially when I can be gone for several days at a time, I would encourage them to use full service if places like that existed anymore. But to have a state dictate that you cannot pump your own fuel I think that’s wrong, I just wonder how many of them people pumping your fuel actually do anything except hold the nozzle and take your money as far as emissions, I’m just glad that’s something I don’t have to deal with, In Colorado those are dictated by what county you live in, mostly in the metro areas and suburbs.

I agree with this NJ system being wrong and un American , There is a difference between the old style full service station where you paid a little extra for someone to fill your tank and check your tires and oil and wash the windshield. vs. a Law that says you can't pump your own fuel. I hope stuff like that don’t spread through out the nation, probably has more to do with law suites, lawyers and control I can remember working at full service stations when I was in school, I got a lot of dates with that job.

That stretch of road aka... the shot gun or the gun barrel. Im a frequent flyer on that stretch transporting heavy equipment out of Denver, it a real treat running that road after comming off the passes. It’s about 80 miles of perfectly flat and straight road, hammer down and watch out for Smokey the bear

@Evan you are correct not a cure all, but in my situation I dont have any issues towing my 12k 5ver on flat or rolling hills and can keep sustained temps of around 175 to 180 and sometime creeps up to around 190, but nothing out of ordinary. Its the steep 6 percent and greater hills that are 4 miles or longer and have switch backs and make it hard to keep a speed greater than 35mph. and it seems that a torque converter to stay in lock up in first and seconded would be most beneficial in controlling the temps. just wondering why you dont use yours, I haven't installed mine yet still trying to get parts lined up and funds for an upgraded valve body to make it useful in all gears