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98whitelightnin

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Everything posted by 98whitelightnin

  1. Thanks for all the feedback, its exactly the reason I came here! It is a big trailer and the old 12v probably wont like it but should carry it as far as I will need it to go. I do have an 11 year old and he will be with me come summer. I will be sure to look all over any of them I look at for the problems yall have seen. I was thinking that trailer being fiberglass wouldnt have the leaking problems that the other trailers with metal siding would have. Maybe its not fiberglass? It looks like it has a shell around it, instead of the siding?
  2. I really think it will be nice for a year saving money and not gathering a bunch of extra junk. Rent down here is outrageous and I want to buy a home in a a couple years.
  3. Im tired of renting houses for too much money a month and am thinking about getting a 5th wheel or travel trailer and trying it out for a year. I really dont know the first thing about them and could use some opinions. I dont want to buy a new one because I dont want to be a ton of money into it. I have been eyeballing this one because it has washer and dryer hookups and I believe a king bed. https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/rvs/d/lewisville-2007-silverback-by-cedar/7062380123.html
  4. I sent it to 5525 US 95. Let me know if you dont get it and ill run tracking to find delivery location.
  5. Mike, tracking shows that t-stat delivered yesterday. I sent it in a very discrete valentines day padded envelope.
  6. ebay and amazon both have rebuild kits. I just rebuilt a 351ve and hopefully will see how it turned out in another couple months.
  7. Good hx35's go for $300 so you could rebuild and double your money.
  8. I did one of Beans diesel sump about 5 years ago and couldn’t get much below half a tank without truck cutting out. I decided I didn’t get the sump exactly under the factory pickup so I cut up another tank. Same thing happened with that tank too. Don’t remember any leaking but couldn’t use more than 20 gallons of a 35 gallon tank.
  9. Mike, I found the 200 t stat I pulled out of my 2012 in favor of a 190. It was good when I pulled it and I’ll send it up to you if you want it
  10. I had one of Mikes or Ryan’s high idle boxes about 10 years ago and for some reason the truck ran 160* with it hooked up. I drove around for a month at 160* and getting 13.5. Finally figured out it was the high idle box And when I removed it, Temps went back up to 190* and mpg jumped back up to 16.5
  11. I like that and didnt think about mounting it to the pump.
  12. I was looking at the floor board and I just dont see a good spot to mount a switch. I feel like it would be best mounted like the brake light switch is but really not a good place on fuel pedal.
  13. I have always used valvoline premium blue in my dodges and never had any issues. Now with this ck4 formula I decided to switch it up and go back to the old ci4. It was expensive but will only get changed once a year or so so I went with PDD new oil.
  14. Stant and gates the same company?
  15. Mike, im almost positive a 6.7 thermostat is the same size as your truck. My 2012 came factory with a 200 and rock auto has stant for under $9 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ram,2012,2500,6.7l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1502371,cooling+system,thermostat,2200
  16. I have done the exact same over and over again. My last p-pumped truck made 700 something and almost 1900 ft pounds with compounds and a shot of nitrous.
  17. I didnt think anyone made much more than 500 so thats impressive. I just realized your not far from me over in Weathorford. I just hit you up on instagram
  18. Did you mount it to the actual pedal assembly or the floor under? I looked at pac brake and they have what looks like a floor mounted clicker switch
  19. I’ve just about got all the pieces to put an he351ve in my 98. I’m gonna be using a banshee controller that will take care of the exhaust brake functions. I need a momentary switch to activate the brake. It will need to be wired up and have some kind of contact with the fuel pedal. I’m thinking a surface mount momentary switch will be best because I don’t want to drill a huge hole in the floor board. I want the switch to be closed when the button is not pressed instead of open when it’s not pressed. Is that just determined by which way I wire it? Anyone have a wiring for dummies book I can borrow?
  20. The ecm is on the block. It’s between, and a little lower than the injection pump (vp44) and firewall.
  21. I park in the same spot of the driveway every day and have an old rubber floor mat under the draft tube.
  22. If the slaves are setup the same then I would think so.
  23. Mike has a good video on bleeding
  24. I jack up the rear of the truck with the front tires blocked and the trans in N. Now with the rubber plugs out and a small flat screw driver, start spinning the tires with your hands until you get the slightest bit of drag. If you dont like the drag, take another flat screw driver and push in towards the wheel on the metal arm and you can loosen the adjuster down a click or two to get them set exactly where you like.