98whitelightnin

I have thought about swapping to some new wheels but these are so easy to clean and look classic

My sb dd still shifts like garbage too and I’m afraid it was installers fault but I don’t have the place or help to pull the thing out right now. This nv4500 was the best shifting one id ever driven, until this garbage clutch job.

Yes, I have 2” Thuren springs and adjustable control arms.

I put a set of 315/75r16 Falken Wildpeak at3w on last year. That size came with 20/32 of tread and I got them from amazon for $180 each. They only have about 3500 miles on them so far but the ride is great and they look great too. I had been running toyos and even a few sets of nittos before and I like these best so far. Amazon has 265/70r17 for $160

I would have the alternator tested. I drove from Amarillo Tx to South Fork Co with a dead alternator and couldn’t tell except for scan gauge going to sleep.

Iirc it was a 2wd single cab. They folded mirrors in and taped paper plates or cardboard over the simulators. Drove 55 with windows up and no ac in California summer.

My 95 had Y style just like your 97. The T style didn’t come out till 98. You can order the HD T style for a 98 for your 97 and it will be direct fit, but you won’t be able to add the bottom stabilizer. I have been running without a stabilizer for almost a year and recently added one. I removed it within two weeks because it made the truck walk the road. If your parts are all right, you don’t need it.

Maybe the replacement I got from advanced was only a single core. From the top it appeared to be the same width but looking down the side, it was missing a row.

I also bought a Murray from oreilly about 5 years ago. The original copper tanked rad was leaking and I originally purchased one from advanced auto but it was only a 2 core, so it was returned in favor of the Murray.

Mpg shouldn’t go down and you should be able to fit a 265/70/17

It was a pretty loud pop, buddies girlfriend in the back seat might have peed a little. I think I used stainless diesel kit and everything went together great. Came with S&B dry filter too but it was expensive. Would have been a little cheaper with box 475 but that 1.10 spooled great. corrected for chicken man

I put a 62/65/14 on my old 12v and eventually put a 75/96/1.10 under it. I could not get egt’s much over 1100 no matter how hard i tried pulling a loaded 35’ gooseneck and beating the poo out of it. Busted a fist size hole in a boot with that load and 80 psi but never got warm. BD used to have a small set of towing twins, I believe 57/69, and it was a really fun setup with manual trans.

94-2013have pint top front shock tops and go through the coil. 13.5+ font mount outside the coil and also don’t have pin tops on front. I’m sure you could figure out a way to mount them but not worth the hassle for stock bilstein shocks

If the 18 is a leaf spring truck then they might fit but fronts will not.

Unless your blocking the frame up and drooping the suspension, then just one set of 2 will work.

I have done 1” spacers and removed several 2” spacers and have also done several sets of Thuren 2” springs. I have thought about cutting a little out of the 2” coils but don’t want to mess them up. The coil spring compressor at auto parts stores are too small but the strut compressor works perfectly https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/powerbuilt-tools-kit-1-strut-spring-compressor-kit-648627/9150007-P?searchTerm=9150007+OR+9150042 Life will be easier if you spread the lower shock mount a little, after you remove the shock so you can put it back in easier.

I don’t think I’ve ever showered or used the toilet in a TT, how do they work? Do you have to fill tanks when your at a park with hookups or do they auto fill when you hook up to water? Do you pour water down the toilet after use?

I like the classic look of pillar gauges. I’ve ordered all my gauges from diesel manor and they have taken excellent care of me over the years. If I still had a vp truck, I would go with a quadzilla and monitor but isspro EV2 are my stand alone gauges of choice.

Your probably about right on mpg with a dually. You may be able to raise it up a little bit a dually just won’t get the mpg a single wheel truck will.

I don’t think valve covers were off anytime during that run.

This was the sample. I’ve had two 98 trucks and the first two samples were from it several years ago, but it also had a wix bhaf with good results so maybe I have something else going on

This was the sample. I’ve had two 98 trucks and the first two samples were from it several years ago, but it also had a wix bhaf with good results so maybe I have something else going on

Mine would suck down on a new filter after some hard runs. Ive been all about bhaf in the past but did an oil sample with last oil change the sample came back with high silicone. Ill have to lok back at my records but most of if not that entire oil had a new wix bhaf on. I really want to pull my intercooler and all piping to give them all a good wash out and try a different filter.

The gauge seems accurate all times, except when it drops off.

Sometimes my oe oil pressure gauge drops to zero and I get a ding with a light. This usually only happens when I’m at a lower idle situation while pulling forward and the idle gets low or reversing into a parking spot and idle gets low (idle is set at 815). It’s only happened a handful of times until one day last week when we had a 75 degree day and then it was dinging every few minutes during slow driving or idling. When I bought this truck, a little over a year ago, original owner told me about this and had a new oil switch in the door but I put a new mopar switch in it anyway. Mechanical oil gauge I have shows 23 psi or so while the gauge in the dash drops to zero. Do y’all think this could be a wire or just nature of the beast. Also, cold start oil pressure seems to come up slowly but I’ve never had a mechanical gauge on any of my other cummins. I’m using 15w40 and it’s not low.