98whitelightnin

No, its a bolt hole. I helped you over on cummins forum, im glad you found this place, its must for 2nd gens.

I dont believe it drops that low but I think I actually may have figured it out. The truck has also done something weird for a while, when the engine is cold and I shift it would bounce up in rpm when it hit idle speed, like I touched the throttle. I thought it was the new injectors since it started directly after install. I adjusted the 4k gsk yesterday and I didnt see any smoke today and no sticking throttle. Nice surprise was that the bounce at cold shift it gone too, truck has more power now as well. Im not sure where I had the gsk set at before but I put them 6 clicks total each.

Where is the thread that @IBMobile put this in?

I have often thought about this and part of the reason I like the early 2nd gens more.

Does it have a spot for a grease zerk on the underside of the knuckle? Mine have a little plug that I can turn out and add a zerk for greasing.

Im glad its running good

I p-pumped my 98 and it never gave me any trouble and got the best mpg after I hung that little 160 off the side. Only issue I had was my buddy wired up the fss to my ac and as soon as I hit ac the truck died. Truck had good road manors and ran just about the same power wise as it did with the edge comp and smarty. My truck was a 5 speed and the swap was fairly straight forward.

I have tested for leaks but have not found any

I don’t k ow enough about it to know what I’m doing. I’ll just keep driving it the way I have been and not worry about it

I cant exactly remember what mine made but I think it was closer to 50 psi with 5x.012 and pump work. That old truck made 421 hp 946 tq with 62/65/14

About time! I hope it works good for u

I have used both of those, the ez and fumoto. I put them on all my trucks and they are well worth it to me. I have a fumoto on my current 98 and I also put one on my girl friends jeep. The fumoto I got for her came with a little lever clip, for her piece of mind, but ive also used a small hose clamp where the lever is in the past.

I have an annoying issue with my 98. It over fuels bad at a certain tiny spot in the throttle but only on takeoff. Truck is a 5 speed with 215 pump with a home cut 100 plate. I have the plate slid halfway forward and if I back the smoke screw out anymore it will fall off. The star wheel has been adjusted slightly and the housing itself is about centered. Truck runs really clean up top and down low, except for this small spot in the throttle on take off. I usually ease into the throttle and miss the spot but once or twice a week ill accidentally find it and it belches thick black smoke. I have a needle valve at the afc on the boost reference line. I also have PDD Bosch 5x.012 injectors set at 305 bar and like I said before, truck runs real good and clean every other part of driving. Ill see if I can get a couple videos this weekend.

Last couple sets of new tires I have purchased have been squirly for the first 1000 miles or so but they werent michelins.

Any updates yet?

Every diesel I have ever had looked like it smoked in other cars headights at night.

Got the new slave installed and it shifts better. Going into 1 or 2 from a stop is alot easier now and with the rear tires off the ground and the clutch pedal held to the floor, the tires barely move. The pedal is harder to press now and the clutch engages at the very top of the pedal. If I didnt get it bled good enough, would it make the pedal harder to push? I feel like i bled it real good but im paranoid since this is y first one

This new slave has a bleeder, like a brake caliper. Do I need to remove the entire setup from the truck to bleed it of do yall think I can get all the air out with it still on the truck? Would anyone with an nv4500 and dd clutch be willing to do me and favor? Jack the rear end of your truck off the ground and with the truck idling, hold the clutch pedal all the way to the floor, go through the gears and tell me if the tires spin at all. Do they spin when you initially go into gear? Do they spin the entire time its in gear? Do they stay completely still?

SB said they have had to use that jeep slave on a few of their triple disk clutches but that i shouldnt have to on a dd. I got the feeling that ive been blown off and they want nothing to do with me or helping me at this point. I had every intention of going with valair again but was told that sb was better by a friend that installed and ran both.

I may have figured out the issue with my truck not wanting to shift. SB has a hydraulic testing procedure that states to remove the slave cylinder and put a steering wheel puller in its place. Tighten puller down as far as you can with fingers and then tighten another 7/8” with ratchet. I jack the rear end off the ground and do this and the tires spin while in gear, as do they with the slave installed and pushing the clutch pedal to the floor. Go in another 3/8 of an inch for a total of 1 1/4” deep, and the tires do not spin. I get a small bump of an inch or so when initially going into gear but that’s it. To remedy this I ordered an adjustable slave rod but Ryan at SB says the extra length of that rod will just cause the slave to push back in on itself and not actually allow for more slave rod travel, this would have been nice to know before ordering but getting anyone to answer the phone has been tough lately. He gave me a dorman part number CS360047, which is a metal slave for a mid 90’s Jeep Wrangler. He said that the rod for that slave is actually shorter than their slave but it it’s got a longer stroke and will push it out to the 1 1/4” that I need. I’ve ordered that and it along with the adjustable rod will be here tomorrow. Hopefully I can finally get this thing shifting as it should, I’m tired of being under it daily trying new remedy’s that don’t work.

Standard transmission and gear on ft worth Tx. Really a good group up there and they seem to want to help me but havent got it fixed yet. I called sb a few weeks ago and left a message but never received a return call.

The installers had the truck for a week a few weeks ago and instead of dropping the trans and seeing what the problem was, they put two new sets of hydro's in it. I followed sb hydro testing procedure and ruled out hydro issues before I too it back to them. Now im playing the waiting game. This was the best shifting nv4500 I'd ever driven before this clutch went in.

I feel the same way and this is the reason I do everything on my truck myself, but I just didnt have it in me or my back to tackle this job alone. Maybe we should both head to Idaho and assist Mike in doing the jobs correctly.

Close to two months. The sbdd organic doesnt fully disengage and the truck lurches when im at a stop and trying to get it into gear. Hard shifting and hard on synchro's

Im still going through the same issues, no one wants to pull the trans for free to fix an issue since install.