jlwelding

I had this when I installed airdog, loosen the closest filter get someone to bump starter fuel will push air out and fuel everywhere. Then do same to the next filter, its going to make a heck of a mess but hey it got the job done. Go to injectors back off three of them and bump starter several times. Close two lines bump again, then crank, it should start hitting and then start.

If that's how big they are today, heck I'll have to mount it in the bed somewhere. Good thing I got a flatbed I guess.

Dang, is that how big the Fass is to date?

He's getting the hell out there.lol

I lost my card for the airdog so I know its coming and I don't even want to deal with airdog anymore. My AD100 took a nose dive and so I did the warranty thing and up graded to the 150. So throwing good money after bad I just don't do anymore. Fass pitches a good line of talk I just hope that's not all they are.

I been reading so much my head is about to explode. I went to Thoroughbred Diesel and looked around and still don't know anymore now than when I was reading here. So when my airdog dies, get a fass or not.

I had two EZ's and they both got corrosion inside of them and went south quick. If you buy one over the net, get them to send you a pic of the inside. Its real simple to take the two screws off the back and see inside. As far as settings leave it on 3, I don't know why they even made the other two settings.

I really cant see it being lines, ya think?

As for the cross over tubes go if you notice when you put the injectors in the hole there is play side to side and in and out. When you tighten down on the injector the crossover tube will crush a tiny bit. The crossover tube is a soft metal and that is how it seals it's self off. You might get by one time with old tubes but if your luck runs like mine, you better get new ones. You could have a leak between the tube and injector seat. If it misses right off the bat you got something else going on other than what I described. What I do is put the injector in push crossover tube in till it seats, tighten down the injector. Install all injectors this way then tighten down crossover tubes behind intake bleed the rest and tighten them. I sold the block with cam, pistons,crank still in it, the guy said he was making a twelve valve out of it so he pulled all the parts and just used the block. I told him if he had any issues with it to bring it back and if he found anything he said he would let me know, I never heard from him.

Go out when its cool 65 degrees start it and let it idle for about 5 min. Get a ear of it, you know what it sounds like right ? Now drive it 800' or so. Listen to see if you here it starting to miss. If no miss drive 1-2 miles pull over check. You see where I am going with this right ? If it has a cracked piston or cracked block it will pass compression test all day long, I even did a blow by test and it still passed that. At some point I will guess if its like mine was you pulled a heavy load and let the egts get to high. I pulled a D4 dozer on the hwy and pulled a steep incline and that's what did it on mine. I remember the temps were 1250 1300 for a few minutes and that was just enough. I spent right at 8k tracing it down, don't bother taking it to Dodge or Cummins they wont know anything more than us right here. Believe me I spent the money thinking somebody has run across this before. I learned a whole lot about these Cummins during that ordeal. I replace 4 IP , 4 sets of injectors, two wiring harness , four crossover tubes, (by the way change them every time you replace injectors), a rebuilt head, swapped turbos with my sons truck, about 3-4 apps, 3-4 cam sensors, two ecms even put another exhaust because I thought I was going insane hearing ****. I guarantee if it will set in your drive way and sound like the best truck you ever heard idling, then miss after a short trip down the road. Go find you another eng and be done with it.

I guess I should throw my two cents in here seeing as I am the king of tracing down slite misses. lol Hey Mike this don't sound familiar. You know what it sounds like when it's hot right ? Now in the morning go out fire it up and if it is not as noticeable. Then we'll go from there.

I cant believe it man. Sad day.

My son in law bought a new to him Dodge with 20k on the clock. What does he need to know ? One question is what rear Differential and front diff. What full filter should be ran ?

As far as valve stem cap I have a pair of long handle needle nose pliers with 90 bend. And I just put up with the simulators, you can pull both cap and simulator off at the same time. Or get you a welding rod and put you a sharp bend on the end and make a handle out of the other end and pull cap off first. I usually check air about every 3 months. Between that time I just use the old thump stick or hammer and bump them, you will know right away when one is low.

I adjusted the bands and installed the governor solenoid and pressure sensor I ordered from Cascade and I wished I would have done it sooner. It really did the trick, the shifts are a little longer and the shift is a lot sharper shift, well worth the 135.00 bucks.

I am no tire expert by any means but was told this second hand info, so take it for what its worth. lol A guy bought a trailer second hand and it had been barely used maybe 4 years old. He took it on a 300 mile round trip to haul some propane tanks ends up blowing 6 new tires that came with the trailer, the two that didn't blow had already been replaced. Tire sales man told him there is a active ingredient in the rubber that if not used will cause tire to break down the cord and come apart.

I got it, bearing retainer.

Anybody know what they mean by small retainers and large retainers ? All I know is the large retainers are on 3/4 ton trucks.

Oh how that brings back the memories. Night mares actually. LOL

A two wire plug behind the steering wheel. RIP you dinging blanked blank

I fully agree Mopar, but when you can see the diff theres no question. The parts man at cummins made the comment 8 out of ten guys will be back in two years or less when it comes to water pump. I am a steel guy and when you see pour casting what else is pour. The cummins pump is clean as far as casting nice paint job, it looks powder coated. The pump at oreillys had a nose cone over the impellers, what the heck is that? The pump that came off of it had exposed impellers and the same with the cummins pump. I don't think a nose cone is a better option. The orielly pump came pre rusted right out of the box. lol I am not one hundred % sure but I think the pump is off the motor I bought almost two years ago. If that's the case it is probably the original pump. The bearings is what gave up, I mean they had slack, I was surprised it held any water pressure. Oh yea, it could have a little to do with the rust in the radiator. lol No worries now new rad. new heater core new water pump. Now as long as I don't loose a freeze plug. lol

I replaced my heater core I had to unplug PCM and now my key dinger is ringing. It must have restored all the old settings. How do I go about turning it off again.

Mine has been squeaking, growling and making all kinds of noise for two years. I have tried putting oil everything. I even replaced the clock spring, nothing works. Drive it.

It started out with a leaking water pump then a belt then a alt. then a heater core then and fan motor. Take it from me, when you buy a water pump get it from Cummins. The parts store suc. When they sell you one for 59.00 at Oreillys and cummins is 153.00 there is a reason for that.

Turbo Timmy is the lead mech. at heat'en an a Beaten Auto Service.