jlwelding

What is a track bar? I looked it up and it appears this is a 4x4 thing? My 2wd has nothing like this. Ok go ahead and laugh.

A friend of mine has a 05 Chevy 2500 gasser and the eng. gose into limp mode and he pulls over for about 5 min. and then truck starts and off he goes again. What could be happing there? Fuel gauge stopped working about the same time as all this started happing.

Where it says FF 100-10 I guess that means 10 micron and the next is FF100- 5

Welcome aboard

Anybody running one? Are they worth it?

I have had a few people ask what my heat sheilds look like so here's mine. Nothing fancy and it needs paint.

What all is involved and what would a person be looking at cost wise?

I have ran a lot of injectors, my favorite is DDP 50's, not much smoke. Great egt's. The Coal Train 75 hp a little hot but not uncontrolable. For the money you cant beat RV 275's.

I built a heat sheild and then just cut the threads off smooth with the nuts. At the back towards the fire wall my filter was rubbing on A/C line so I took some rubber and zip tie and wraped the line.If you are anyone needs a heat sheild just give me a call. I build them on my cnc plasma cutter.

I know a little about expansion and contraction and turning your block heater on I think is about the best you can do. I would turn it on with a timer about 4 hr. before you start up in the morning. And if your worried about after a load, I would plug it in then also.If the block ever cracks your in big doo then. The BS about the lock -n- stich is just that. It can be welded,but there's not a shop I can think of that would take the time and do it right because if they did it wouldnt be worth fixin.I checked into this a while back, because you can find a ton of low mileage 53 blocks:lmao:

Go to your local coop or better find a farmer that puts out gofer bait to kill gofer's in pastures. And that stuff is a little more powerfull, but we used the store bought stuff in the packs because you can throw it under things where you cant reach and they tear the paper off to get the little goodies:drool: Becarful not to poisen your dog:lmao:we had to pour peroxide down boss dog to get him to puke, and man let me tell you a volcano anit got nothin on peroxide:lmao2: Put the packs under your hood like batt box, some place it will ride. The ones that know where the warm places are will do all the damage. I could tell you some other things to use but might not be such a good idea, if you know what I mean.My boss was on a rampage after they screwed up his H3 but he had a lot of money to pay us to do this stuff.

Flagman I am here to tell you you NEED to get rid of the mice. My exboss had his H3 completly distroyed by mice. The wiring was ate up everywhere. Me and two other guys got the detail of mice killing at his house for over a year. We set bait traps everywhere, out in the yard, barns sheds, in the pasture. He was really ticked off and we did the dirty work

I really dont know, I recorded temp, humidity and pressure in system and tryed to duplicate it. Also used hot water to keep can from freezing and added two cans = 1.8 lbs. And rub the geanie in the bottle with a little presto magic and done deal.:lmao2:

If I am wrong then, how many miles drive does it take to recharge (amp wise) a batt after one crank?

Thats the way it goes when you call in on every Monday saying the dog ate my home work.

So the way I do adj. is ok? i think I got it, no matter foward or back it's still the same.

I got it blowing colder than it used to, it used to only get down to 29.

You really dont need a grid heater here it Tx. I disconected mine 3 years ago, infact my grid heater and relays are for sale here in the fore sale section. If it gets that cold I plug mine in just to get heater warmed up. Besides it will save your batts. big time.

It's so cold in here my coffee gets cold before I can drink it. :lmao::lmao::lmao:

Yea I have some I will try to get them up.

Check this out, I been thinking about swapping my driver cushion with the passanger side so I took the seats all the way out. Got the shop vac and cleaned the heck out of it. Got to looking at it and it's a peace of cake they swapped like nothing to it. It's like a new truck, new motor and new seat:lmao2:My helper called in with the brown bottle flu this morning, so when he gets in he will have a hard as a rock seat with a hole in it:lmao:

Ok check this out, I may be doing this wrong. What I have done in the past with motor cycles is as soon as the intake goes all the way down and back up that is susposed to be combustion on #1. And thats how I have started with adjustment. But the eng. is turning over back wards when you bar it over with the alt. So can someone give me the guidance to do this right?

I dont think I am explain it right. Ok my old eng. I had brand new ecm flashed by dodge. Before flash it ran 40 at idle and a little over 40 at 2k. After flash it was still the same as before the flash. Ok new to me motor with the same new ecm I had flashed now runs the next mark up from 40 and a little higher at 2k. So it not the same, it tells me I have a lot higher oil pressure with the same gauge and the same new ecm, everything the same but the eng. I even put the sendor from old motor in the new motor. I will get manual gauge and see what new pressure reading is. Can I tap into the plug at the oil filter?

3.75 is the cheapest around here

(Layman) So do we keep going by the book?