015point9

I miss understood my mechanic then. Not in park, but neutral will. What I was told.

Time to engage when parked level overnight...2 seconds.

With right gauge there is a sensor built in. Forget brand of gauge that has alarm light built in, maybe somebody will post. Other alarms... don't fall for the 5 psi light. 5 psi is to low.

Sometimes my a/c clicks if knob in wrong position, but can't hear it at higher speeds. And 1 time had paper clip in drink holder making noise

I added to original post, might be handy. And Vulcan is great to deal with also. If you want a pic of carter set up let me know.

Can't help you with fittings for OEM stuff but I used jic fittings on my air dog. Save your carter for a backup. Reason...I have carter as back up pump under back seat. Takes me 20 min to change out airdog, and put my carter pump in. turn shut off valves, unthread airdog, put carter pump in, plug in wire, turn ball valves on. My fuel line goes from pump directly to vp44 with quick connent fittings. No banjo and jic fittings at pump only. Dont know if fass has same elec connection as airdog, but wouldn't be had to make one that hooks up to fass and carter pump, I'm assuming. Got almost all fittings sister store down here. Alaska Rubber has place in Anchorage. But they dont have quick connect fittings but all brass mic they had, at least in Seattle store. And they are proud of there prices, probably more so up north. But it's a 1 stop shop.

When I put a camera down mine, I noticed lots of bubbles (air in fuel). As my old return line used to exit real close to supply line. Tank was about 1/4 full at the time. When I replaced fuel module, new return line spits into module at a different angle now. Return fuel now "slides" down the module making less of a splash. Also convinced me to fill up quicker, so I'm not sucking up as many bubbles. I know airdog is supposed to remove bubbles, but have no idea how much or how bad they are. Made me feel better anyways. (Can also report harbor freight camera doesn't like diesel)?

All in gest... I had to replace fass on the road. @MOPARMAN1973 should look into private consulting for some mechanics, up front cash on retainer.

Thanks... I was thinking return line from where fuel exits the head. I stuck a camera down there via the filler tube. Quite a drizzle of fuel.

My return line is 5/16 I think. Would I cycle more fuel if I used 1/2 for return line also?

Part description Seal, radiator

Dodge Part No.: 55235115 SEAL RADIATOR Part Description SEAL Radiator Manufacturer Mopar. This genuine Mopar part is guaranteed by Mopar's factory warranty. Manufacturer's Notes This part is discontinued. It is no longer available for purchase. I have no clue

I thought it helped with preventing dust and crud getting sucked into radiator. Mine also had a lower trim piece that wrapped around the bumper.

(Ok first try posting url on cell phone..). https://braketubes.com/collections/all/Dodge-Ram-3500-2001 Boy... and not cheap. Just found them on line... dont know anything about them. Just posting url. Probably lots cheaper bending your own, but that also would be a career change for me? My napa has stainless steel lines. But what a hassle bending them.

I'm in same state as you. While state no longer requires smog test for us, bear in mind nothing stops law enforcement giving you a fix it ticket for excessive smoke. I don't know how hard to change back or other in's ot out's...

Glove box sticker and axle tag (little piece of alum secured on diff cover) and vin look up. After confirming, then I knew I should add friction modifier. Other people could probably tell by looking at inside, but not me.

Sort of friends with our Ford parts guy. (Thanks to a 03 f-350) I was surprised when he told me who they sell some of their fluids to. Limited slip and their racing grease used in many applications besides ford. I have their stuff in my 01 dodge. No problem. Whatever directions say to use PLUS 10 percent is what I use with a Dana 70 and mag-hytec cover. But I would use what ever you have on hand first. Some auto parts are sort of strange, if not actually in the business. When I got new injectors for my 5.4 Ford. He told me to go to napa, "same thing as Ford but much cheaper". But most mechanics at his place hate the Ford silicone goop and prefer off the shelve ultra black. But Ford's silicone valve in oil filters are supposed to be better than other brands that need a valve built in....and probably a lot of snake oil mixed in?. At my location, Geno's is usually 5 days away for me. While I like Geno's, I'm ordering less and less from them.

Dodge guy told me I've might what was called "corp axle". And if I understand him right, Chrysler used Dana housing, but had Dana dummy down their product. Guy said the "M" might be "M" as in Modified and not a true dana. Is my understanding right? I do know I get stuck very easy unlike other 2 wheel drives I've had. But stuck real easy. Glove box sticker says Dana M70/26 Anti-spin differ

I for one really dont like working on my truck or know how. But after a stripped oil pan bolt one time on wifes car and when traveling one time, being stuck at a "mechanics" place that couldn't replace my fass and had to replace with airdog. Why replace fass with airdog... because the "mechanic" could call his brother to translate. I've started learning and doing all I can. This site has been very helpful to me for learning stuff. Even the computer stuff is beginning to get through my thick skull. (NOT knocking fass. Pumped work 9 or 10 years and no problems... well till there was a problem) ? I've never had trouble light come on since we got it in 2005, other than ABS light, thanks to road debris. Mechanics... when you find one that cares and knows his stuff, I have no problem paying what they think their job is worth.

Imo in my local area one reason shops won't do labor only is because there are more than enough people that need there services that the customer plays by their rules or dont get the service. At the same time (pointed out by my kid, that runs a shop in a different populated area) if a service bays are not full making top dollar, he is losing money. Or not making money to pay overhead. His bookkeeper made him a pie chart one time of his overhead. Keeping the doors open not an easy thing to do sometimes. I see why places charge what that they do. Also interesting to me (and sad) is just how much the gov't is a silent partner in his business, if he likes it or not.

I told Jon at Dynamic his ears should be roasting as we were talking about him. Entirely possible to get his built trans but got to get it 300 miles to my place. Ok, so far sounds good. Then I went to two local places asking about getting it installed. Both places really didn't want the work (labor) only. But more than happy to rebuild what I have. IE there is no mark up on parts, and basically plenty of fish in the sea. And they have plenty of cars parked at their shops awaiting work and I'm just another nameless face in the crowd. No place for me to do it. Thinking cap on, I know there is a way, just haven't thought about yet.

My local Cummins says theirs now sold in smaller packages than having to buy big package enough for entire neighborhood, and said theirs test more than ph level. But I got mine from ace hardware in nursery section. Also read about volt meter method, but didn't have much faith in it.

Thanks... good idea, didn't think of that. Jon might even trust a place over here to install his magic.

Yes, I been to his place and he'll probably do mine. Was planned for this summer, but wife is sick and can't travel or be left alone for a 6 hour drive (for me also.) Imo about anything mechanical could break or fall apart. Wonder if possible or how hard it would be for shop that rebuilt trans to coordinate with the shop that is many miles or several states away? Maybe Dynamic could give his experience? That is if he ever had this happen. Even the best might of had a part failure somewhere in their past.

You folks that bought trans so far from home... any hesitations?