015point9

Looks like I'll be shopping for additional filter set up. Any recommendations and where did you install them. I need to have filters that are very common as nearest Cummins only has a few that I can buy couple at a time. Most other filters have to buy, the entire case. So will be buying online, so need good and very common filters and available most anywhere. I think someone mentioned filterbarn.com for online buying is good? And your coolant filter...where did you mount it? Thanks

Any info on best way to change? I dont think my Turkey baster is getting out very much.

I'm near seatac, parked a Ford with Dana axle and the exposed part on gear that is exposed had rust on it. Didn't find out till hooked up to heavy RV and rear end made crunching noise. Not the whole gear, just the part of gear exposed to our wet air. About 2000 grit sand paper very slight sanding and good rinsing, no more problem. Good wax job Coolant that is good "time wise" thru your deployment Heater/defrost is in off position. Dash cover Call base auto shop and ask what problems they have seen. Tank full would be less condensation, but 13 months not that big of deal imo. Part of the price we pay I guess for our weather... in other news, inlaws other side of state basically (Lewiston ID) reached 111 and our side 88?

Wet side of state as in your location or not on wet side of cascades?

Totally stock with 9k rv, and been over that stretch quite a few times...I keep pedal down till 1200 or 1250 egt's and chug along about same speed as large trucks... 35 to 40 mph. Auto with 4:10's Glad blanket works for you.

Thank you...I'm not filmalier with ecm' or ecu's. Have been doing a bit of reading and first time I've seen that statement. Seems like a pretty good guideline, but wasn't sure if guideline or internet folklore. Thanks

What do you folks think about statement below for our trucks? True or false or full of it? (from http://midwestecmrepair.com/new-standard.html ) How dead is your ECM? There's a few different levels of non-functionality Key on; stop engine / check engine / engine warning lights come on & go back off (normal) stop engine / check engine / engine warning lights come on, go off & come back on (active fault) stop engine / check engine / engine warning lights come on & stay on (ECM locked up) stop engine / check engine / engine warning lights don't come on at all (ECM not powering up) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Nothing wrong with mine, just trying to learn. Saw this statement and wondered if true or not. thanks

Thanks, insightful comments. When pumping fuel I often stare at the decal that says..." recommended for all diesel motors" knowing my next step is to mess with two stroke oil.

I notice members from Europe and other places joining this site... I've read in the past the the US has higher HFFR ratio than Europe. I understand that is the main reason why many in the US add two stroke oil, to help with lubeing up the VP44. Out of curiosity if you buy fuel out of US how many miles do you get on your vp44. And welcome

You're location says north Idaho. Where is little power shop be?

Any DB readings before and after? I'm thinking about some type of sound deadening myself but dont know what to get

Thanks. I was thinking more coolant flow the better. My thinking was incorrect. Thanks for straightening me out.

So on a 5.9 would it be bad to have a 6.7 pump. Even though the 6.7 pumps and moves more coolant, it also puts more pressure, which is bad. Do I understand this right?

Very old from another forum but you can see some of the hassles. http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=11209.0 Jag1 very good option.

My advice of owning several rv's since 1980's and full time around US for couple years, and spent sometime in Germany (not Scotland). Get an RV that fits your needs starting with the floorplan. Reason is if you are not comfortable inside with the floorplan nothing else going to matter. Maybe explore Www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk. but doesn't have to much in Scotland as far as that club goes. But might help with your questions more so than RV's over here that 30-40 feet (not meters) are common place. If you buy here some surprsurprises, the top of my head is electric. You would have to get some thing to match your elec. And also maybe type of gas for appliances. Not sure if you are propane or butane. Not a big deal to change over the orfus. I understand but parts might be a hassle for you. Reading blogs in the past, re-filling gas the connections are not interchangeable. Little things that would take time and money to work through. And check out what works best for some of the places you will be traveling in. As I remember some places had roads that were as tight as places in Japan. I would NOT buy in US then have to ship and import to your country. Lots of money you will never see again. There is a RV section here... near bottom of home page. My response is not that helpful, but some RV parts are a pain to get even at RV dealer. Lately for example...my limiting switch is broke on a suburban furnace and RV dealer is on 3rd time trying to get right part.

Any body using the 6.7 water pump in their 5.9... if so see any improvements like when towing in mountains stays cooler longer before fan comes on? Any other pluses or minuses? Thanks

My 2 wheel drive. Cheap harbor freight hand pump and pump into jugs, maybe 2 or 3 sucked out from topside. Then my skinny drain pan for remaining fluid. Not only do I spill less, I know how much i got out of cooling system. I have yet to get out all. Everytime I crawl under my 2 wheel drive, I think about going on a diet??????

If not one thing its another. Get well soon.

Ok thanks... I've got one with sump and drawstraw laying in shed. Hate to toss it because I had very hard time finding replacement. Was at Vulcan one day he had one out of pre 98 that he sold me. But i'm also tired of tripping over tank with sump in it. A very good welder in town said he could, but no receipt and cash only. Which most knows what that means.

On my 01 it has a sticker under the hood for routing a belt without ac. I picked up one many years ago in case ac compressor ever freezes up or regular belt broke. Reason why is saw a guy that his compressor froze up and the regular belt smoked until it broke and stunk big time because belt still on ac pulley. So now I'm covered if regular belt breaks or if ac craps out. See routing below in pic with and without ac. Also read somewhere Chrysler had the best ac at one time. Was all new redesign (or the K car) ?

Just a question... if a person had to or wanted to go back to a fuel module... What does one do to plug up the hole that was drilled for sump?

Does this apply?

In this case you might have been better off not following or not having an owners manual. What I do is change trans fluid every 30,000 miles and when checking your trans level give it a smell, and if fluid smells burned and/or color is no longer red something might be going on. And of course watch the trans temps. Owner’s manual (part number 81-326-1024) and was told there are different editions. In different editions the errors were either corrected from previous editions and/or new items listed that weren’t in different editions. All this was pointed out by a retired Cummins engineer that just walked up to us one day at a campground, we got talking. I kept pouring coffee. He talked about his career with Cummins. And the "fun" little fights Cummins and Chrysler used to get into. Here is what he pointed out in my owner’s manual concerning the trans. There a quite a few errors in manual, I can only remember a few that he talked about. On the trans he said there was a big disconnect between Chrysler and printer and bean counters. Dodge told Cummins guys trans is not their product so don't get involved. (OK right out of manual) On page 173 If your vehicle has an automatic transmission and you tow a trailer frequently, change transmission fluid and filter every 12,000 miles (19,000km) Then on page 230 A band adjustment and filter change should be made at the time of the oil change. The fluid and filter should be changed and the bands adjusted as specified in the Maintenance schedule (section 8). Vehicles having severe usage should have the fluid changed twice as frequently. Ok lets look at section 8 which on to page 259 in Maintenance schedule “B” Nothing is listed at 12,000 miles. But remember on page 173 it said to “change transmission fluid and filter every 12,000 miles (19,000km). On to page 260…at 30,000 service… is the first listing of …..drain and refill automatic trans fluid.. Replace filter and adjust bands. There doesn’t leave a few questions, as in what are they talking about? And this quoted right out of manual. In all I spent about 6 hours talking with him and we kept contact for couple years but one time he respond saying no more e-mail and to use facebook. Well I don’t face book. I think there might be a face book page for retired Cummins guys “BS” on?.

I'm beginning to think what I thought might be a problem temps are within normal specs.

Now I'm interest in quadzilla. I was thinking just about an Edge to help on some hills. With a turbo timer that makes difference to me. Or can Edge be set up with a timer? (I know nothing about adding power, maybe 40 horses ) More temps than I thought but... Seems like no worries about fuel temps, melting stuff anyways. Wonder why class 8 trucks have so many fuel coolers, maybe to get more dense fuel or? Almost makes me change my return line somewhere beside dumping in fuel module Not sold on me yet but could be. What temps does bad things start to happen. All these temps could be within normal operating ranges.