Rogan

yeah, i dunno why this one is so quiet. It's no big deal, just a dramatic difference to what I'm used to hearing..

I know.. the "can't you see" comment was sarcasm.. - - - Updated - - - The view just as I crested the ridge...

I had a busy weekend, working the '97 dually.. Filled up 3 times in 4 days..Hand-calculated (using GPS total mileage)Th: $3.899 18.5g 246mi = 13.3mpgSa: $3.899 18.8g 234mi = 12.4mpgSu: $3.899 21.2g 248mi = 11.7mpgThis 12V gets no better than my crappy MPGs I got in my '01 6 speed..

Mr. Garmin, can you not see that I'm pulling a loaded trailer?? https://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=cardinal+dr,+winchester,+va&daddr=38.9938811,-78.5148051+to:Fairview+Road,+Woodstock,+VA&hl=en&ll=38.968285,-78.49122&spn=0.067066,0.104628&sll=39.033205,-78.467395&sspn=0.268019,0.41851&geocode=FUV1VQIdBc9T-ym3n63tUpG1iTF-MyJbjbkDmg%3BFdn_UgIdi_VR-ynL0MQ8hKS1iTE-upykEwCQww%3BFaa9UQIdkbhR-ykLqIrSeq-1iTEkGhhN28EUqw&t=p&mra=dvme&mrsp=1&sz=12&via=1&z=14 My point is... If you see SR. 623 in the lower part of the map (before Mr. Garmin told me to take a left onto Zepp Rd).. It takes me to the same interchange (off the map) at Wardensville Grade Rd.. SR623 would've take me 2 miles further... but 30 minutes sooner. (Actual time, not Mr. Garmin's "idea" of 7 minutes...)

When I swapped my '96 auto trans w/241DLD for an NV4500 w/241DLD, I can tell you that the auto driveshaft's slip yoke on the rear shaft was considerably larger diameter than the manual 241's output shaft. I thought that was weird, and had to get a new yoke.I don't know what my '97 auto has on it for a tcase, but I'll check it out this weekend.My 01 6spd had a 241DHD.

LMFAO!!! Epic response! From the Galaxy S3

You wish you had a 5" tip - wait.. what? ;) From the Galaxy S3

52mm From the Galaxy S3

How in the **** do you get this mfer out?? I can barely touch it, let alone get a socket or wrench on it??From the Galaxy S3

aesthetics..

He didn't actually "do" anything, as my buddy ended up getting AAA to handle it, but the fact of calling him, and he answering a strange phone call, and offering to do whatever was needed, was an awesome gesture, in my book. He was ready to pick up and go help Tex, without question.Speaking with him on the phone, especially for the first time, and letting him know who/where I was and contacting him from, he spoke with me as if we'd been friends for years, and willing to do what he could.

In a stock formed situation, a tapered down exhaust is really a good thing..Reason is, as exhaust gasses are expelled hot, they're expanded, requiring more volumetric space in the exhaust pipe. As they travel through the system, they cool and condense. The tapered down pipe keeps the velocity of the exiting gasses up, aiding in a sort of 'scavenging' effect for the newly-expelled exhaust gas. The resonator stores heat, so they expel from there in a 4". Entering the muffler, they actually tend to cool a bit, then the 3" pipe is sufficient.Once you step into a higher HP category, the larger diameter exhaust would prove more beneficial, as you pump more air into the engine (i.e. higher boost = more flow).. You're still only pumping 5.9L of air in/out of the engine per cycle, but at a much higher flow-rate.

So, as the title states, I want to publicly thank Ryan "rth0006" http://forum.mopar1973man.com/members/11105-rth0006 for a couple reasons.. Story: My good friend, who lives here in Winchester, VA by me, was on his way back home from Louisiana. He's on a Disaster Support Team that supports the wireless and wireline 911 service in disaster-stricken areas of the US. He's spent the past week or so supporting Key West, FL, then MS and LA. He was headed home from Louisiana tonight, and blew out the transfer case in his '05 3500 SRW 6 speed 4x4 around exit 32 on I-85, about 20 minutes outside Auburn, AL. I checked the directory, and found Ryan was in Auburn. Let me tell you guys something.. He may be listed as a "Limited Member" here, as he only has about 8 posts, but this guy is A+ in my book. I called him tonight at 10:15PM (EST). He answered and volunteered to help my buddy out in any way he can, without hesitation! These forum people are true family, in my book! Turns out, Tex (my buddy) has AAA Plus and they're gonna tow him to Noonan, GA (95mi away) to Aamco, as well as booked him a hotel, all for no cost. At any rate, I thought I'd give a shout-out to Ryan (rth0006) and say "Thank you". Rogan

Yes, it's common. It does require a re-balance (obviously). Depending on your turbine housing, you may have to step it's size up as well, due to the small cm opening.

Must be the extra valves From the Galaxy S3

dammit.. i just ordered the OE style sensor... $53 del. I may order the Isspro mech. CTG and a steering column pod, though.. - - - Updated - - - So here's a crazy question.. In looking at the '97 wiring diagrams, it shows: VIO/YEL wire from the single-pinned CTS to Connector B-C2-pin7. Where is the heck is the SG2 reading the -40*F CTS from (M73M)??? I be cornfuzed..

I stumbled across this, while looking for something totally different...

So, yeah. My 24V 2001 HX35 6spd with silencer ring MIA and BHAF would absolutely scream when loading the engine and being around 20-25psi boost (towing). It had Edge Juice w/Att., 5" Diamond Eye, BHAF..My 1997 12V HX35 built auto with silencer ring MIA and BHAF is hardly noticable at 20-25psi under same conditions with OD and TCC on. #100 fuel plate, 215 pump, 4" Diamond Eye, BHAF. Both have same downpipe...Any ideas why the dramatic audible difference? Is it basically the 12 less valves and the 30 less base HP??

I researched this a good bit (with John's assistance) a little while back. If (when) I do this, I'm using my HX35 for the top charger, and an S400 for the bottom one. I've heard: 35 w/s400 will make about 500 or 550 with water/meth 35/40 w/s400 will do about 550 or 600 with water/ meth s300 w/s400 = 700HP

My truck's manufacture date is 1/97. I can't tell if it's a 1-terminal or 2-terminal connector without pulling it out or whatever. I need to replace mine (gauge lays on coldest point, SG2 says -40*F..) Genos has a 1-wire (gray) for $55, and a 2-wire (black) for $45. Judging by the pictures, they're both the same big threads. '89-'97 '98 RockAuto has a 1-wire (gray) for $47, and a 2-wire (black) for $28. Judging by the pictures: the gray one is big-threaded with teflon type sealant. http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=40546&imageurl=http%3A//www.rockauto.com/info/SMP/TS382_PRIMARY.jpg The 2-wire is smaller threads and o-ring sealer.. http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=320376&imageurl=http%3A//www.rockauto.com/info/SMP/TS420_PRIMARY.jpg I don't know which I need to buy.. I "ASSuME" it's the gray one?

Yeah, I've see some "dog-walkers" too.. Usually it is bent somethings, or broken pins on the alignment blocks, etc.. :-)

How's that work on a fixed point suspension in the rear? I had 295/75-16s on wide offest 16x10 wheels on my 01. It would definitely wander around and find every imperfection and groove in the road surface, then chase it.. I went back to a 265/75-16 on stock wheel offset and the problem disappeared... POOF!

I knew you'd pop in here! LOL

Food for thought... May want to consider swapping the vacuum hose for fuel hose.

awesome mileage and good looking truck! If I could get 15mpg highway with my trailer, I'd be ecstatic. Let alone above 17mpg...