Rogan

thanks, mike. I hope it's something simple. I'll give that a try.

1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd., 5.2L, 44RE, NVG249, 155K on the odo.Replaced trans, TC, radiator, cooler, on 9/9/09, @ 118K due to slipping badly; band adjustment performed prior to replacement (no change.)Fast forward to current time:Cold starts, Reverse and Drive (1st) engagements are slow and inconsistent. Once warmed up, engagements are normal and without fault. No codes. Fluid level is optimum. Aamco says it needs rebuilt. I think it's a fluid issue: either the pump is weak, or there is a drain-back issue somewhere, causing the trans or TC to lose fluid to the pan, causing pressure to drop.Any ideas? I don't think a band adjustment is the answer, as it doesn't slip; acts like it just doesn't want to engage the gear when cold (below operating temp.)

Thanks, Mike! Exactly what I needed!

Didn't say it was a solution;) just brainstorming...Sent from my rooted EVO's tiny keyboard with my opposable thumbs...

Growing up on the farms in West Texas and SE New Mexico, I've seen many rattlers over the 6ft mark.. :shivers: Here's a 7+ footer from Jax area

What if... One was to use a thermoswitch - one similar to what is used for electric cooling fans - to trigger a cyclic pump, or trigger the fp to turn on. There are several of these switches on the market that are user-settable. You could diode-wire it in with a relay (NC 87A leg) to be active only when IGN is off. Tag the fuel line at the IP to sample temps and activate one preset temp, deactivate on preset shutoff. Many european cars do this with coolant (Saab, BMW, Audi, etc.) Heck, my '90 525i does it with the coolant.

so... the CAB module (controller, antilock brakes) is bolted to the bottom of the pump assembly. Dodge wants $1000 for the control module, and $1200 for the pump (or controller).. So $2200 for both pieces! W.T.F.??@Mike - happen to have the schematic for the ABS controller for same '97 Grand Cherokee? ;)Impress me LOL

I have a 2nd hand Edge Juice w/Attitude, and love it. Best of luck in getting your situation straightened out!

you are definitely "the man" --- Update to the previous post... does your bag of tricks show where the ABS control module is located? Or is it integrated into the pump? My scanner fails the ABS section with "No Communication with ABS Module"...

Thanks Mike! Where in the heck did you find it? LOLThe unfortunate part is, the light control I'm looking at is BUS fed..

And title states make/model ;)Sent from my rooted EVO's tiny keyboard with my opposable thumbs...

I failed. Lol1997 5.2LSent from my rooted EVO's tiny keyboard with my opposable thumbs...

I'm working on a dash cluster issue for my neighbor. He bought this JGCL from me a couple of years ago, and I do most of the maint./repairs for him. At any rate, I'm trying to find a wiring diagram for it's instrument cluster. Not sure if it's bus-fed or what.. The cluster is modular and plugs into the dash plug, rather than multiple harnesses loosely plugged in. The plug is singular and I think it's 10-wire connector. I need to know what the wiring pinout is.Any help is appreciated. The 95 wiring diagram is not the same.

wouldn't that result in a 'vacuum leak'?trouble is, purchasing (2) 3-port solenoids would not justify the savings of just buying a cable :banghead:

In efforts (last night) to try and determine why my truck is eating up a right-front tire, I noticed the left front UBJ is completely trashed. Jack up the axle, and the top of the tire falls out about 2 inches! Ironically, this is NOT the tire that's getting eaten up..so now, I still need to figure out WTF is going on with the tire wear on the right, in addition to replacing all 4 ball joints.. This, after my ECM took a dive 2 weeks ago, and also noticed my steering box is getting sloppy at the output shaft..Yay. FML.

Lmao!

Ill try to do this, this week sometime. LOL Ingenious.

I use 2 floor jacks and 2 sections of 2"x12".. 10x easier, IMO.

A couple of things kill the video:1. It's not me in my truck on those roads2. the camera rattling against the glass dampens the lovely Cummins purr

If it's just the nipple that's broken, why not modify the housing top by drilling/inserting a push-lock nipple fitting in place with some plastic-welding (I've plastic-welded may things with a soldering iron and a zip tie) if you use a plastic/nylon one. Or go with a brass one. like using this on top: and this one, inside.. Or one of these:

Thanks, MM.. Here's a diagram of what I'm looking to try and do, since I already have a couple of vacuum solenoids.

this is gonna be total awesomeness.

Anyone have a good explanation/diagram on what happens and how, vacuum-wise, with the front axle? which vacuum line (to the axle) does what/when?Thanks!

can anyone verify if the Edge FPSensor and the QUAD's FPSensor are terminated differently? They're both 3-prong, I'd just like to be able to determine how to test the sensor (ground/reference/signal) to ensure the sensor is bad, or if it's the wiring placement int he terminal.

01 needed no MAP adapter; Edge harness was fine as is. So anyway, Installed an Edge Juice w/Attitude last night, that I bought from a friend. He switched to a QUAD. I installed it on my '01 QCSB 6spd. The install was pretty straight-forward. He gave me the FP sender from the QUAD kit, as it appeared identical to the Edge one. Issues are as follows: [*]Monitor shows '0psi' fuel pressure when truck is running. Shows 34psi if I unplug sender. [*]I tested FP prior to installation, and test fitting showed 24-26psi idle, and dropped to ~20 under throttle. Removed test-fitting banjo and installed adapter/sender in it's place, on the VP pump [*]Data Link connected, select Oil Pressure, and it shows '0psi' [*]Dash Oil Pressure gauge shows good/high oil pressure.. Additionally, no boost elbow came with the kit. The monitor shows my max boost under load to reach ~30-31psi. The truck will roll smoke without a problem, so I know it's getting fuel, and plenty of it. Anyone had an issue of the fuel pressure senders failing with these? Is there a logical/easy way to put the original test port back into the fuel system to still be able to test the fuel pressure with a test gauge, rather than totally disassembling the added sender setup? The guy at Edge (Brad?) said he's never heard of a sensor being bad... (what?) Want's me to send in the sensor for testing. New one (PN 4000700) is $35.00. Boost elbow, PN 6000019 is ~$10.00 $35, it's almost worth just ordering one, rather than time/money in shipping/testing/returning my current one.said 24-26psi idle is way too high. Stock elbow + Edge, I see 31-32psi boost. Should I order elbow and go higher? Or leave it as is? Thoughts? Thanks in advance.