dripley

@Dieselfuture is right about that. Mine was off about a quarter turn when I last replaced it. And it is easy to adjust. The thing that wore me installing my last one was getting it lined up. I installed the ball stud end first and then went back and forth many time adjusting the steering wheel to get the bushing lined up with hole. An extra pair of hands would have been nice.

It seems that we are gaining a lot of new members lately that are buying their first diesel in the 2nd gens. It seems the 2nd gens are starting g a new life cycle.

I have one myself. It worked fine but set a 222 code that would not clear. And the cel would not go off. It did however stop my engine from surging.

No. Not for intslling a track bar.

A shallow pan. All you need is something that will hold 5 to 6 gallons. Wally world or most any parts store have has them.

My Achilles tendon separated about 5 years ago jumping up in the fifth wheel getting ready to move it to a new job. Did not have the steps out. Felt like it took 30 minutes to crawl the 50' to the front door of my house. I am sure missing a knee is about the same amount of fun. Back up about 30 years and I could jump of of a house with no ill effects. Man are those days gone. I dont seem to bounce as well as I did back then. Anyway, here is a to a speedy recovery. Glad the new roof is working. Cant afford the first opinion much less the second. My younger brother had a knee replacement a few months back. I know he wishes he could of found that at Harbor freight. It is working out pretty good for him.

I take it you are not motivating quite as well as the avatar? might have to get him a cane. Hope you heel quicker than I do.

I did W-T's ground mod a couple months ago and that did not fix mine. Glad I did it however. It is worth the 2 hours or so to do it. My squeezes of the harness work but it does come back. I will probably start with the sensor ground splice, but I think I would be having other issues if it is in there. Or maybe it is just the MAP ground that is coming loose first, who knows.

I think you are on the right track. Mine is behaving exactly like yours. I squeeze and manipulate the wiring harness at the ECM and mine goes away. I just cant find the time to open it up or trouble shot it yet. I new APPS nor MAP sensor fixed it. Only me messing with the harness has helped me. I dont know if its in the harness or maybe one of the connectors. Still a mystery for me also. @Dieselfuture I remember reading about the about issues with the oil pressure sensor/switch. The 02 wiring diagrams show 3 wires going to it, orange=5v signal, BLK\LT BLU=sensor ground, gray/BLK EOP SW SENS on pin 6 at the ECM. my spare harness only has the GRAY/BLK to pin six. The connector has only space for 2 wires and one is plugged. Seems strange. But mine is just a switch, earlier models are a sender. Not sure which years are which though.

Relative humidity

Which lines do you have fuel spraying out of? If you have some codes set, it would be helpful to know what they are.

I just leave mine on the ground for the tie rod ends and track bar. Jack one wheel at time for ball joints and bearings.

Where is spell check when you need it?

Did you open the inlet to the VP to be sure fuel is getting to the VP?

If all your front end parts are that old I have to think you would need a complete rebuild including ball joints. Just my opinion.

Mine is about 4 years old and was not the problem. You have to disconnected it completely. Unplug everything to be sure. Not hard to do.

I take it you mean the gray connectors on the ground wires to the batterys.

I simple thing to do is just disconnect the Juice completely and return it to stock form and see if that cures the problem. My 02 MAP has an odd connector not seen on the 00's and requires an adapter harness to work. I disconnected my Comp and the problem persisted. That's why I think mine is somewhere in the harness. But i will say electronics is my weak spot.

I think what you did makes perfectly good sense. I was was just following directions. And for anyone that is confused either way will work and wiring straight to the battery does eliminate one connection. Very much the same as what is done at the passenger battery for the PCM ground. The stray AC voltage is the main culprit here for the problems folks are experiencing. Just changing the charge wire and shortening the grounds seems to really reduce that AC voltage. I have not done anything to the PCM ground yet other than cut out the splices near the passenger battery and connect it straight to the passanger battery negative terminal.

I held of responding to this hoping for some other input. I have experienced some similar issues without a solution yet. I would ask this. The dead pedal issue, does it go completely dead as in the engine goes to idle and no resonse? My experience, bear with me, started with engine surging and dead pedal as described above. I also had a couple TPS codes to go with it. I replaced the TPS to no avail. During this I also got a stray MAP sensor code a couple times. One day I decided to install my OE one to see if the MAP sensor might have something to do with it. Well it broke that one and had to re install the one that was in there. The surging stopped and no more dead pedal. To me the only thing I did was mess with the wiring harness while plugging and un plugging the sensor and had one of my hands jammed in around the ECM. Fast forward several months and I started having an issue that generated a 237 code and a large loss of power, very little throttle response no matter how far I depressed the pedal. That's why I asked the question above. Mine would accelarate but very slowly. Does the Juice have any way of monitoring the MAP sensor? My scan gauge II does and i did notice that when this happens the MAP signal was dropping out. So went back in and manipulated the MAP harness and the harness at the ECM. Problem solved. No surging, no MAP signal loss. That worked for a out a month then the MAP signal started dropping out again but more like a loose wire this time. Just in and out randomly like a bad connection. It did show on the scan gauge though. This time I went in and just grabbed the wiring harness at the ECM. Problem gone until last week. Another grab of the harnes and gone again. Sorry for the delayed and long response, I just don't know away to explain that briefly. I figure is in the wiring harnes or maybe a connector pin, I just don't know. I would give your wiring harness at the ECM a good squeeze and a wiggle and see what happens. I just cant seem to find the time to check my harness out properly. There is a sensor ground splice in that part of the harness that could be the issue but I don't know that for sure.

Looks like you did not miss the hail by much.

It is a great place. The truck got me thru the first 217k miles. This place got me thru the next 231k miles.

I don't know anything about Spohn myself either way. When I did mine I went with a standard one. I am not knocking the adjustable at all. They are a bit pricier than than the standard one.

I cant see that hurting anything either. I figured with the computer grounds and the battery ground bolted on the same bolt on the gear case it would suffice. Cant go wrong with yours though.

Precisely. I put my AD power lead there so no one else would ever mention it being the alternator again. One end is connected to the timing case with the other ground wires at the the VP. The other end goes to the driver side battery neg terminal. I guess @Mopar1973Manleft the connector to easily disconnect it, don't know for sure. I just used a piece of the wire, added ring terminals and bolted both ends. It will work either way.