dripley

See if that link is better. Not hard to do and you don't need to pull the power steering pump as some instructions say. Just did mine about 3 months ago.

A Fernco coupling in the plumbing department of what ever building supply is closet. I forget the size. Just measure the inlet on the turbo and get one that fits. The other needs to fit the PVC fitting you buy. You don't need a gauge in it unless you just want it. I just put about 20 psi or so and started soaping joints. You are after all looking for leaks. I can almost gaurantee you have a leak somewhere.

Now if I can just find the time. I just lost next week off but will be much closer to home after that.

Good to see you are still hanging in there Hammer. Hope the rebuild goes fine. That was one hell of a run of bad luck.

Mine gets pretty hot also. My hydro boost sprung a leak under the hood now. So off it comes this weekend. I can now use the rebuild kit I bought a while back. Had a small leak under the dash and it quit, now I know why now.

Appreciate the info it seems I have backwards. I guess you cant see a tone ring from the front. There does appear to be some bolts screwed in from the back though. I know when I bought a replacement sensor it was listed as a cam sensor and the wiring diagrams call it a cam sensor. It did not come from Cummins however. Though the trouble codes list it as a CKP I believe. My education continues.

My 02 does not have a crank sensor only a cam sensor in the timing case. I also thought, my 02 anyway, that the cam sensor read from a notch in the cam gear and not tone wheel. I don't remember seeing one when I opened my gear case a few months back.

The ground mod is well worth the effort. It will cut down the stray AC voltage the alternator puts out. I cant fo the technical explanation but it works and saves a lot strain on all the electronic components. It is only a 2 hour job and worth every minute. I experienced dead pedal many years ago when my in tank fuel was growing weak and after getting the fuel pressure back up cured it. I had no cel light during these episodes. You need to get a FP gauge or at the least get a test gauge and see what you pressure is. Low pressure will also take your VP out with it. Fast forward to about 5 years and the dead pedal issue came back with the cel lit and TPS codes set. Though during this I also had engine surging. I have narrowed this part down to the wiring harness just have not had the time to open it up. I was able to make it stop by manipulating the harnes and for now it no longer does it. There is more than one thing that can cause dead pedal and it usually is not the TPS that causes it. But a Timbo APPS/TPS is a worthwhile investment as mentioned above by @Dieselfuture.

What kind of fuel pressur are seeing? Are you still running on the stock fuel lines to the VP? I don't think that FRRP has much of a chance keeping up with the stacked tuners.

I don't think you could mistreat a VP much worse than that. My current one has 233k miles on it. We will see how much further it will go.

I had to check, I only thought it was a few years old not 14. 2004 was the release date though. So, some beach!!!!

@AlpineRAM I have to assume that you would be another European addition to the forum. Welcome sir.

Not sure my carpet would even roll back that far without cracking in half. 17 years of coffee, soda and god knows what spills has my carpet pretty stiff.

correcto mundo. I was thinking more of a force field to ward off hail. But either one would be acceptable.

Some beach!!!

I know you wern't. Was not taking it personal at all. But I did find cheaper ones though.

I hope you are having fun making feel bad starting the obvious. But I did find these. Even with $10 shipping I come out much better than 20 a piece. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Pedal-Pad-Crown-52009562/3326097899 Now let's hope they are not a POS.

The ironic part is the 03-15 pads right next to them are only $8. Go figure.

I would have to leave that up to the more educated on autos. @Dynamic is a vendor and resident expert on the autos and there are some others more suited to advise you. @Dieselfuture's advice above is good. I just know the stock tranny does not like the added power without some help. Also, welcome to the forum. Another member from across the pond.

75hp and drive it easy. If not you will be building that tranny sooner rather than later. Stock auto tranny does not like much extra power at all.

That's good. Boggles the mind at some o the cases that even get to court these days

Hope he did not win.

I am no engine guru by any means, but having the checked for flatness before putting it back together should be done. I have to replace my head soon and I am going to have it checked and decked if necessary. Don't want to have to do it twice.

This might be where I have seen them before. I do remember being very surprised at the $22 each for the pedal pads. It definitely does not look like fun at all. But since I will be in there taking the Hydro booster of the pedal that i will be half way there any way. Might as well do it all since I will be that far in. Ordered a new brake pedal switch 2 days ago.

Now I am pissed, I posted this twice. I remember a kit and it seems @portlandareae28 has them at LMC truck. but someone tell me why the pedal pads should cost $22 each?