dripley

The down time sucked but could happen to either i would think, though belt failure woild be simple to fix providing you have a spare.

My 165 was the complete kit including the in tank mod kit. Pretty sure they are still available. I did use the quick connects with no issues thus far. But i do seem to be in the minority on that one. I did putchase a fuel pressure gauge later. I also purchased a big line kit since i kept the oe fuel canister as part of the system. It is good to keep it but not absolutely necessary if funds are tight. Many folks take theirs out.

I have had 165 on mine for 8 years. With and without a tuner and it works just fine. Mine came with a kit to replace the intank pump and use the basket for fuel pickup and return.

My $30 Innova will do it also. I only have one ac setting and it does the adjustment automatically. I checked against my electricians Fluke that had only one ac selection also. The readings were very close.

The price difference between the 95 vs the 150 is very small as i rember. A little over kill in the fuel is never a bad thing. The main reason i have the ADII 165 is because ir came with a kit to get rid of the in tank pump. It did not cost much more than a AD150. I have not priced them in while to know whats offered now. Eric at Vulcan can help you with what you need like @JAG1 says.

Thanks for clearing up the mud on that. I feel better already, still got a leaky seal though.

@JAG1 and @Mopar1973Man I would have loved to have been a fly on the wall for that conversation.

I have never slipped my clutch with the EB. That was on the the oe, the Valair, or the SB OFE. I changed my non leaking oe one at 370k when the SB went in. It now leaks. Where was that advice 2.5 years ago.

Yes. At WOT. That should keep the return fuel at the max.

............ Ahhh no. I personally like the Cooper ATP's. On my third set. They did wel for me in the snow, what little i have driven in it any way. The set I have now has 75k or so on them and will probably go 10k more. Not sure why, the other 2 sets onlynwent about 65k. That is as good as any Michelin I have run.

If you are running as stock as it sounds, you should have a schrader valve on the input to the VP. You can hook your gauge there. It is best to test your pressure after the filter. Then you know the pressure the VP is getting. Since the VP's electronics are cooled by the fuel and pump is lubricated by the fuel, good pressure is a must. Adding 2 cycle oil to the fuel is good insurance on the lubricity to help extend the life of that new VP. Todays fuel is much drier than the fuel was when these trucks were new.

As stock as you are, why the dual disk?

Welcome. Closest i have come to what you're doing is a set of manual 2nd gen seats in a 2nd. I wont be much help.

Thats a passing voltage. I have never seen that wide a spread on mine. I was around .03 on mine and @W-T's ground mod dropped me down to .01. Worth while to do.

He is testing for stray AC voltage from the alternator. Too much can cause issues.

The WOT is under load going down highway not free revving in the drive way. How were you checking the FP?

My 96 had 245's on it and they always looked small to me.

Beware of the in tank pump. I ran one for while, courtesy of Dodge, and started having dead pedal issues and some bucking while running it. Turned out my pressure was 5 at idle and pretty much 0 at WOT. Got the pressure under control and those issues went away. Good fuel pressure also helps to insure your VP lives a long and happy. A fuel pressure gauge in the cab is highly recomended But as @Mopar1973Man mentions above electrical issues will make these trucks do strange things also. Electrical gremlins are not my strong point but seems you might have some.

not me I like mine.

While the skinny part does not phase me the diameter does. I hope they work well for you. I am still hung on my 265's.

How about a new wrinkle. I currently have a SB clutch, previously a Valair clutch. I still have my oe lines and resevoir. I have replaced both the master and the slave with off the shelf parts. It works fine but i have no comparison to judge the SB hydraulics. You could buy the clutch of your choice and see how it works with your existing hydraulics. If you dont like it buy the aftermarket.

Diesel auto power. They are a vendor here. You can also talk with SB direct about your also.

Maybe you ought to put some Krispy Kreme donuts on there. The glaze will give you good traction on something.

I did not have the lucky Mike did with my AD 165. The first pump motor went at 7 years and 175k miles but nothing lasts forever and AD warrantied the pump no questions asked. Ala in all I am still happy with it.

What lift pump do you have? What fuel pressures are you seeing at idle and WOT currently? Turbo cutting out is fuel related I am thinking Does surging and such happen in any gear at speed? I am wondering whether it is speed or rpm related. A little more info on the truck would be helpful. Year and transmission.